Two questions in one! Both of these fall under the category of "ask questions later".

1. I am in the process of removing the radiator to get a hole repaired. I got the fan off, and the the secondary shroud off. I also completey unbolted the primary shroud, but can't seem to wiggle it out of there. I read on the forum recently that it's easier to take the unit out as a whole, but I already have the shroud loose in there. At this point, should I just unbolt the radiator and fish it out past the shroud, or should I bolt the shroud back in place and try to remove the whole thing at once?

2. I have a lot of play in my steering (30 to 40 degrees). I have a new rag joint, so I know it sn't that. I got the front end of the car lifted, and found that the play was all in the steering box. The pittman didn't move a bit in the play portion, and when the pittman engaged, the wheels did as well. Knowing that, I looked where the column engaged with the box, and the column wasn't making any in and out movement. This eliminated the worm gear from my thinking. I decided it must be the pittman half of the box, and loosened the locknut to adjust the screw. It took several full turns of the screw to take out the play, and I didn't feel the steering starting to bind during my testing. That much adjustment worries me, mainly because I've read that cramming down too much on that screw will ruin the gears. Have I already messed them up from tightening it down, or do the gears get ruined if I drive it that way? Right now, it feels like the steering is nice and solid with it cranked down and the car up in the air, but I don't want to ruin the car when driving it.

I'd love some advice on these two issues, and thanks for the help in advance!

 

There are 6 screws inside the front wheelwells. Remove the top 2 screws and loosen the bottom screw. You can than pivot the radiator housing towards the front of the car . You shold now have the room to remove the radiator.

 

You may not be able to see the movement of the steering shaft so it's best to go through the entire adjustment procedure, which is not very difficult at all.

Disconnect the pitman arm, either at the sector shaft on the box or at the centrelink. Back the sector shaft adjusting screw well out. Take the horn button off so you have access to the steering wheel nut. Put an inch lb torque wrench on it. It should take about 8 inch lbs to rotate it. If you are well under that back off the lock nut on the steering shaft adjuster and tighten down the big nut until you are around the 8 inch lb mark. If you don't have an inch lb torque wrench, tighten it down until you can feel a noticeable increase in the amount of force req'd to turn the wheel. This assures that all the slack is taken up and there is some amount of pre-load on the brgs.

The sector gear is machined so there is a high point in it at the centre. This is so that the wheel wants to stay in the straight ahead position. When the sector is properly adjusted there will be an increase in the amount of effort to turn the wheel from end to end as you pass the centre point. Start tightening down the sector adjustment until you reach a point where it requires about 4 additional inch pounds to rotate it through the centre. Again, if you don't have a torque wrench just tighten it until you feel a noticeable increase in drag as you go through the straight ahead position.

If by the time you notice the increase to go through the centre it is binding in the sides, or off centre positions, this is because the high point is worn off the sector and no adjustment will fix you problem. Time for a new sector shaft.

The inch lb measurements may not be what's in the service manual. They are a generic figure used on most manual/assisted boxes. Close enough.

Steve g

 

You'll need an inch/pound torque wrench like this model:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details

 

As Steve G is describing, you must make the sector shaft adjustment with the gear right on center. The gear set is designed with a slight amount of interference right on center. There is clearance designed into the gear set off center to full lock. If you try and eliminate the off center clearance, you can ruin the gear set when the steering box is returned to center.

Jim

 

Hi,
In thinking about sjr1971's suggestion; I believe there are 2 bolts that go through the forward crossmember into welded nuts in the bottom of the core support.
I'd think they need to be removed to pivot the core support at all.
Regards,
Alan

 

First, the shroud and radiator should come out as one piece. To remove and install the unit, it works to cut off about an inch off the lower metal outlet where the bottom radiator hose connects. This will give you the clearance you will need.


Second, I've never heard of this problem - something else is wrong. Spray some WD-40 on the rag joint and tap on it with a hammer in the direction you're short. Finally, it doesn't pay to rebuild anything in the steering system yourself. By the time you're finished and have a machine shop make the final adjustments, you are better off cost-wise to have simply bought a rebuilt unit. Also, repair the system in a sequence so that you can isolate the problem