Having the alternator from my 69 L-68 rebuilt. But, I cannot find a part #, date code, amp #, nothing. I cleaned all around, especially just below the bolt hole flange where you would expect to see the numbers.

It does have the delco remey script on the back, has the finned back also, small delco remey written on the face of the flange also, so it appears to be correct. It also has the black deep groove pulley on it.

The car is a 72,000 mile car. Could it be a correct replacement from years ago and just not the original? But if even that it should at least be stamped as 42A or 61A for the amps.

As a non air car I assume it should be 42 amps. Given what I see even with no visable numbers I think it is worth having rebuilt as it appears top be correct for a 69. The local rebuilder beads it clean and rebuilds, so maybe when he is done some #'s will show up.

 

Rebuild it yourself in about 1-2 hours. The only 'wear' type parts are the bearings (each end), the electrical "brushes", and the diodes. And, if the alternator is charging properly and providing up to 14.4 volts to battery after a cold start, you don't need to replace the diodes.

You need basic tools: small socket set and 1/4" drive ratchet...or nut drivers; a small press or large vise [and some assorted sockets of required diameters] to remove/install the bearings (and diodes, if needed). I like to disassemble it completely, clean the case components, then shoot them with a couple of light, covering coats of VHT 'aluminum' paint. I then bake the painted parts [per the VHT instructions] to achieve a like-new aluminum coating that never gets dull or oxidized. The only "tricky" part of reassembly is sticking a long needle or "T"-pin through the small hole in the back of the case to hold the brushes in place as you reassemble the case halves together. Once assembled, just pull out the needle/pins and the brushes are set in place.

You can buy new bearings and/or diodes at some car parts places or from starter/alternator rebuild shops. Or, if you don't want to do the work, take it to them in the first place.

 

Thanks 7T1VETTE but the local auto electric place near me is not expensive, does it in a day or 2, and it comes back looking brand new.

 

If it has no date code or rating, it sounds like the front housing is a replacement. Someone may have broken off one of the mounting flanges. Not too common but it did happen.

Ed

 

O/k, makes sense. I guess since the rear part has the 7 fins, etc. it is worth rebuilding and keeping on the car as a correct one for 69. Tks.

 

Yes.