Okay so I need my car tomorrow for a speech in my college class because it is my artifact. On monday i took out the distributor to fix a leaking problem, i messed up the timing accidentally when reinstalling. I tried to start it and it wouldn't stay on without my foot on the pedal a bit. Next time trying to start it it turned on for a split second then turned off. I check my gauges and power and everything. Nothing had power. Turning the key and nothing worked. No power to stereo, gauges, starter, engine, nothing. I removed and reinstalled my battery, tested it and it is good. My fuses all look like they're still good. Not sure whats going on but I really need some help and would appreciate it tremendously.
There is more information on how this problem happened in my other post about the leak here:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...stributor.html
Someone please, any ideas? >.<

 

No power: you may have blown one or both fusible links(shown as THERMO).
On the schematic one is on the starter wire the other on the alternator wire.
http://www.nrjvette.com/johdotukset/...tte%201977.pdf

For the distributor timing you have to find TDC on #1 etc, do you have a Haynes manual or a 77 service manual?

 

I'll take a look at that schematic right now, Thanks
and for the manual yeah I have the haynes manual.

A friend said it might be the ignition switch? is that a possibility?

 

Also, any idea where these fusible links would be physically on the car? >.< I'm guessing near the starter?

 

Having to hold your foot on the gas to keep it running sounds like you did not line up the distributor properly when reinstalling it. You have to back up the rotation of the distributor shaft about 4 notches on the distributor gear for it to then line up with the #1 firing position. Otherwise it runs retarded. By giving it the gas to keep it running you are advancing the distributor.

Quick lesson.

first of all you need to remove the #1 spark plug.
crank the engine around until the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley line up - you can use the satrter to get it most of the way there. Then use a deep socket and ratchet or breaker bar to line it up exactly.
Use a small screwdriver or short piece of wire and put it into the #1 piston spark plug hole. See if #1 piston is all the way to the top.
Now go to your distributor cap and find the wire coming from #1 cylinder. Mark it on your cap with some kind of marker that you can see.
If the distributor body is down into the motor all the way, put the distributor cap back on it.
Find the mark for #1 cylinder that you made.
Now make a corresponding mark on the body of the distributor that matches up with the mark on the cap.
Now take the cap off.
Look at where the rotor contact is located in relationship to that mark on the lower distributor body.
If they are not close then that is how much out of time your distributor now is.
You need to lift the distributor body up (watch how the rotor rotates as you do this). Lift it just enough to free the distributor gear/shaft so it can turn BUT don't turn it yet.
Now remembering what direction and about how much that rotor turned when lifting the body up - grab the rotor and turn it until it lines up with your mark on the distributor body. You will have to back it up the same amount as you saw it move when lifting it up - about 1 1/2".
Now push the distributor back down into the engine untill it bottoms out.
IF IT DOES NOT bottom out then you have lost the alignment of the distributor shaft and the oil pumo shaft (the distributor shaft turns your oil pump).
If that is the case you will have to lift the distributor all the way out of the engine.
Using a flashlight and a long handled srtraight blade screw driver you need to turn the shaft down inside the distributor hole. Look at the bottom of the distributor shaft - you will notice on the very bottom of the shaft, below the brass colored gear, that the end actually is hollow has a flat piece of metal plate that looks like the end of a flat bladed screwdriver. That "keyway" is what line up with the notch in the oil pump shaft.
Turn the oil pump shaft until it looks like it will line up with your distributor bottom "keyway". Eyeball it.
Then try reinserting the distributor again making sure to do the line up of the rotor contact and the mark on the distributor body again.
If it bottoms out and the markings are close, then you are in luck.
Install the clamping bracket for the distributor and just snug it up so you can still move the body.
Line up your rotor contact and your mark (you can rotate the body to do this). The shaft itself and rotor should not be able to move.
Check to make sure your timing marks are still in line. If not line them up again (they should not have moved).
Put the #1 plug back in and tighten it. Attach sparkplug wire.
Put your timing light on that now while you are there.
Make sure all your other distributor wires are attached.
Put the cap back on and secure it.
You should be at the #1 firing position now.

As others have pointed out - find the reason for no power to engine. It could be a loose wire from starter up to distributor/coil. It could be a fusible link blown. It could be a master fuse blown. And it could be a bad ignition switch but that is probably only true if you have noticed the ignition being sticky when starting it lately. Usually you get a little notice of this about to fail. Sudden failure is usually blown fuse or disconnected line.

Now if you have power to start it, crank it over.
It should start but will need to having the timing adjusted.

Do you know how to do that? Basically it is using a timing light to check the timing marks on your crankshaft pulley. You adjust them to the specs for your engine -see your manual or the label on the hood or radiator support that shows these specs.
While shining the timing light on these marks while engine is running, you rotate the distributor body slightly one way or the other to get the marks lined up. (Make sure to follow specs as to whether or not you disconnect the vacuum line that goes to the distributor and plug it).
If engine is now running smoothly, shut if off and tighten the clamp down that holds the distributor in place.
Start it back up and check the timing again.
Then while holding the light on rev engine and see how much marks move away from each other on crankshaft pully. If vacuum line was disconnected, reconnect and do the same again with timing light. Rev it fairly high (over 2,000 rpm). Timing marks should be about 24 degrees apart by now (check your specs again especially if this is a modified engine).

That's it. Shou;d only take a half hour if you have to move distributor and oil pump shaft.

Good luck.

Let us know how you made out.

Peace
Bman (Dennis)

 

Wow looks like i seriously screwed this up then >.<
Thank you very much Dennis, I really appreciate it. I will get right on this tomorrow morning because open headers make too much noise especially at midnight. Don't want the neighbors complaining lol. But I will try all of this in the morning and report anything I find on here. thanks hopefully i get this done before 2pm so I can make it to class.

 

Bman posted a good "How To", if you need more info see Haynes page 5-9.
For the "No power" problem...
Check the negative on the battery and where it attaches to the frame under the car, and check the positive at the battery and where it attaches to the starter.

The fusible link can burn inside and still look good, so check both sides.
Here's a picture of what they look like...

 

With timing marks at 0, either number 1 or number 6 is firing. Line up the marks, remove distributor cap and check the position of the rotor. Has to be pointing at one or six.

 

Good information given already, never remove you distributor without marking the rotor orientation for installation. You probably are a tooth too far in either direction. You might try backing it up and try firing it again. Be sure your coil wire is connected to the dist properly. I'm assuming you have an HEI dist with the coil in the cap. I don't understand what you might have done to burn a fusable link, but anything is possible. If you removed any plug wires, are you sure they are back to the correct firing order?

 

i called up my cousin who works for keyes chevy. He came over today and brought his friend. they looked all over my car inside and out and figured it out in a few minutes. it was just a red power cable that came loose on a block. red cable from starter goes into block and from there to alternator and key ignition. that cable just came out from the vibrations that the rough startup caused from the improper timing. simple fix.

so you guys were right in that it was a wiring problem since a wire just came loose and didn't transfer any power.
same for the timing, i was one tooth too far. my cousin and his friend told me exactly what to do.
thank you guys so much for all your help. I'm bookmarking this thread in case I ever mess up again, and knowing me I most likely will. Thanks i really appreciate it.
sadly i couldn't take my vette to class so i lost a few points for my artifact but hey at least its running now and i know why and how to fix it.
my cousin said as soon as i finish my exhaust he will take my car to work and work on it there too excited about that.
Thanks again guys, you helped me out a lot, i appreciate it.

 

You're in college and you drive a Vette? You are the MAN!

 

Any time I pull a distributor, I make sure the rotor is pointing straight back at the firewall. Makes it a piece of cake installing, No guessing.

 

Hell yeah, turns heads not only on campus but all around the city especially with open headers xD

Go Vette Go: thats a good idea. I had a mark on my distributor but i accidentally wiped it when cleaning it of the oil and thats how I lost it :/

 

Well that is good news and not expensive news either.
Bet you will never forget this lesson.
Keep on driving and learning. Working on our own cars is half the enjoyment.
Stay safe
Peace
Bman (Dennis)

 

I really won't forget that lesson lol Thanks a lot dennis. really helped and I really appreciate it

 

Unfortunately, experience is something you don't get until after you need it, if ya know what I mean. You just got some today. And you will get more! Don't ya just love it?
I'm in the same boat as you: college student, drive an old 'vette, and, yes ladies, still single!!!! Ain't life grand?


Keep the shiny side up!
Scott

 

Any time my friend.
That's part of what CF is all about.
Friends helping friends they never met.

Peace
Bman (Dennis)

 

Had I seen this yesterday could have swung by after work and helped ya.
Work in Sylamar.

Next time you get stuck shoot me a pm. Dont get much free time but you never know.

 

scottyp99: experience and knowledge of how to work on and fix my car is a great thing and a vette in college, damn fun lol

Dennis: Much appreciated, your advice came in handy today as someone moved my distributor. Had to fix it and your advice was dead on accurate.

cuisinartvette: Im in the part of sylmar towards the osborne exit on the 210 freeway, but i go to classes in mission.
But yeah anytime I need help I'll be sure to shoot you an email. thanks