Markey006

I am replacing the power steering control valve on my 69. I have popped the ball stud from the pitman arm loose (which I thought was suppoed to be the hard part), and removed the nut/bolt that seems to clamp the end connected to the center link. All the PS lines have been removed as well as the ram cylinder. I have absolutely no idea how to remove the PSCV from the center link. It is the only part that is still connected to vehicle. Is the center link threaded into the PSCV? Does it just have to be cracked loose with some persuasion, or unscrewed? I have gone through every relevant PS thread I could find and no one seems to have this problem. Any suggestions would be extremely helpful!!!

Thanks in advance.
Marcus

BTW I have been using heat and PB Blaster to no avail.

palmbeachvette76

You need a pickle fork and a BFH. couple of good hits and it comes out

http://common2.csnimages.com/lf/47/h...ickle+Fork.jpg

Markey006

alright, I have a 12 inch pickle fork so ill try that tomorrow. I gave it some good whacks earlier but didnt want to mess up any threads if they were in there. If thats all it takes then that thing is frozen on pretty good.

Markey006

*and by center link I mean the "PS relay rod"

palmbeachvette76

As long as your talking about the end on the passenger side that connects to the center link close to the idler arm attached to the frame. The cotter pin and nut should come off easy then use the pickle fork. Mine hadn't been installed but a year when I rebuilt the cylinder on mine and it was pretty difficult to remove. You can't really hurt the threads, now the boot could rip.

MelWff

yes the valve is threaded onto the center link, unscrew it like anything else counter clockwise

palmbeachvette76

This is what I'm thinking your talking about. Sorry for the nasty image but this was shot after I bought my car and any restoration work had begun but it shows the center link that connects the tie rods and also the steering cylinder.

Markey006

Thats alright, mine isnt much cleaner at this point. But yes, in your photo to the right is the area I am talking about, where the center link meets the PSCV.

MelWFF, I think your right. From looking at photos of new center links, I think I can see the threads.

Paul L

You popped the stud from the pitman arm. So that is done. So now you have to unthread the valve from the link. No pullers, no pickle forks, etc. Note that there is a locking bolt.

Gordonm

Remove the locking bolt completly. You can wedge a screwdrive in between the crack to maybe open it up a little but it does thread off.

Markey006

ok, this is starting to make a lot more sense. I have completely removed the locking bolt. I will try and unthread it tomorrow. Thanks for all the help, hoping for the best!

Paul L

The stud was the hard part. It should unthread pretty easily.

mds3013

Markey. Count the number of turns to remove the valve or measure the gap between the valve and the relay rod threads. Mine was turned all the way in then backed off just enough to line up with the pitman arm. mike...

7T1vette

Drive a screwdriver or small chisel between those bolt flanges on the control valve. That will spread it enough so that it will easily screw out of the center link threads.

John 65

Yupp that will do it ! Should come off a lot eaisier.

Markey006

Ok, after heating it up, spraying it with PB Blaster, and beating on it for about a half an hour, i was finally able to break the seal and thread it off. A lot bigger PITA then I thought itd be, but its done. Thanks for all the help, now onto installing the new parts.

Mike, what if it is off 1 rotation? I counted 17 rotations to thread off, and the new valve stops at 16 rotations. I believe thats 1/18 of an inch difference. Is it going to matter in the end? The PO must have cranked that thing down as hard as he could because there are basically no threads left to rotate the valve a 17th time.

Peterbuilt

You will need to correct to toe, no big deal.

Paul L

An alignment will take care of things.

mds3013

Should not be a huge deal. I just wanted to mention this detail to save you some uncertainty after the fact. I would not worry about 1/18in.. You may want to learn how to align your front end yourself or if car has not been aligned recently then take it to a reputable shop. Reputable shops are somewhat diffucult to find sometimes. Good luck with it. mike...

Peterbuilt

Markey006, finish the install, bleed the system and center the valve.
Then go for a ride, if your Vette pulls to one side or the steering wheel is not centered then you need to adjust only the toe as camber and caster are not affected by your repair.
Regards, Pete.