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The leaf spring on my ’72 has lost much of its spring. I’ve read several threads on this forum saying that Eaton Detroit Spring can re-arch springs. I called them and was told that the leaves for the C3 corvettes were made from thin steel and with a layer of rust from the last 30 to 40 years these springs have the propensity to break during the re-arching process. He said the spring nearly needs to be in the condition as if the car had been in storage since new (in his words). He said they frequently re-arched springs for solid axle corvettes because they were made from thicker steel but they had only re-arched 2 transverse springs.
Not much experience to share with only 2 springs. Can anybody share an actual experience with re-arching?
The leaf spring on my ’72 has lost much of its spring. I’ve read several threads on this forum saying that Eaton Detroit Spring can re-arch springs. I called them and was told that the leaves for the C3 corvettes were made from thin steel and with a layer of rust from the last 30 to 40 years these springs have the propensity to break during the re-arching process. He said the spring nearly needs to be in the condition as if the car had been in storage since new (in his words). He said they frequently re-arched springs for solid axle corvettes because they were made from thicker steel but they had only re-arched 2 transverse springs.
Not much experience to share with only 2 springs. Can anybody share an actual experience with re-arching?
I believe them about the re-arch issue with thin leaves but I call BS on his statement about frequency. The C1 was the only Corvette with a solid rear axle and I doubt they do those frequently. Cheapest option is to get yourself a used leaf spring from a Corvette parts recycler or Ebay or Craigslist. A lot of C3 owners have swapped them out for fiberglass springs so there are a lot of good leafs floating around waiting to be installed in a car for many more years of use.
Try the NCRS. I think that there are Ads in there Driveline newsletter for people who do this. There used to be a Shop here in Seattle who did a couple of Vettes back in the early 80's. I think they thought that if a little more Arch was good then a lota Arch was better. Each Vette came out with the Air Shock Jacked up Look. As far as a used Spring goes the last extra one I had I put on e-bay and Craigslist for next to nothing. A couple of Weeks later I threw it away as I didn't get a single Call. I do have another one of these, a 1980 Standard Spring. Its Heavy and odd size Box will make it exspensive to ship.
I had the same problem with my '72. I just purchased a new leaf spring from Ecklers. No worries about sending them away to be re-worked and not knowing if they were done correctly. My two cents.
Not much experience to share with only 2 springs. Can anybody share an actual experience with re-arching?
I have not re-arched anything but I have de-arched a set of S10 leaf springs. The process is simple, either way. If you want to keep your existing springs, then give it a shot.
Worst case scenario, they break and you buy a new spring anyway.
Hi DrV,
What signs are you seeing that make you think your spring has lost it's proper arch?
I do read about springs being re-arched so someone must be doing it.
One of the problems with a new spring is that they don't seem to have the same rate characteristics as the originals which creates problems with obtaining the proper ride height after installation.
Again, what signs are you seeing?
Regards,
Alan
Alan, thanks for your comment. I always appreciate reading your responses. You asked a very good question. Before I decided to buy the ’72 a few years ago, I engaged an area NCRS judge and corvette enthusiast who has been restoring corvettes for over 30 years to evaluate the car. He is a retired engineer who is well known in the area for his knowledge about corvettes. In his evaluation, he said that the rear suspension needed to be restored.
I’ve been wrestling with whether I should replace the spring or not. I rebuilt the front suspension last summer and decided to replace the front springs. If I had a do over, I would have kept the old springs. The ride now is just a bit more harsh than I prefer. And the front now sits slightly higher than the rear. It isn’t real noticeable and the ride is not that bad; but, I have the differential out for a rebuild and I’ve fallen prey to the “while I’m at it” syndrome.
How did you de-arch your leaf springs?
My rear springs have once ben replaced, 9 leafs, and it sits too high at the rear.
I'm planning to de-arch them in a hydraulic press, but your input is more than welcome.
Hi DV,
From what you describe is it possible that if you replace the rubber spring cushions the rear ride height will be restored?
On my 71 the front suspension has all the original parts, and the ride height is about 3/4" low. (Which I like.)
On the rear I'm using the original rear spring, cushions, and shocks. When I put new cushions in place the ride height increased about 1". It was higher than the specs call for, and LOOKED high, too. I changed back to the original cushions and the ride height was closer to what it should be. I then cut the new cushions down to the compressed height of the original cushions and installed them. I'd think cutting the cushions has affected the ride a bit, but in my case that's o.k..
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
The best spring shop in my neck of the woods re-arches leaf springs one leaf at a time, by a talented man with many years of experience using a BFH. It's a skill that surely will be lost when he retires as there's no tech school teaching it.
I cannot see where a Vette transverse leaf spring would re-arch any different than the pair I had done on the rear of my '57 Nomad wagon.
VERY interesting and crafty idea on cutting new bushings down to reduce ride height. I've heard of re-using old bushings and using longer outboard bolts to reduce ride height, but not "trimming" bushings.
Do you have a feel for ratio (ie: X inches in cushion reduction = Y inches in ride height reduction)?
Regards,
Don.
Originally Posted by Alan 71
Hi DV,
From what you describe is it possible that if you replace the rubber spring cushions the rear ride height will be restored?
On my 71 the front suspension has all the original parts, and the ride height is about 3/4" low. (Which I like.)
On the rear I'm using the original rear spring, cushions, and shocks. When I put new cushions in place the ride height increased about 1". It was higher than the specs call for, and LOOKED high, too. I changed back to the original cushions and the ride height was closer to what it should be. I then cut the new cushions down to the compressed height of the original cushions and installed them. I'd think cutting the cushions has affected the ride a bit, but in my case that's o.k..
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
If you like, I have a (slightly) used 9 leaf steel rear spring in very good condition. It is not OEM- it is a replacement spring with plastic "buttons" on the spring ends instead of the plastic liners between the leaves. I want to clear out my shed and it's yours for cheap. Email me at gcusmano@msn.com if you are interested.
Hi Don,
To my eye it's pretty easy to spot a longer bolt. Also, the original is a VERY unusual bolt.... the shank is cut down between the upper and lower cushions, and then gets larger again where it passes through the bottom cushion to catch the washer, slotted nut, and cotter pin.
My experience is that you seem to gain 1/2 the dimension in ride height that you have changed in hardware or cushion. I'm not smart enough to understand why that is, but that's what it seems.
I cut my new cushions to match the compressed height of the originals. I would like to have used the originals but P.H. 'chided' me for their cracked appearance when I posted a picture that happened to show them.
I'm playing with the front suspension right now trying to come with a 'natural' finish for the spindles, steering arms, tie rod ends. I'm also working on the appearance of the tie-rod tubes and front sway-bar.
I'm REALLY getting CRAZY/SICK! I find I enjoy the car a LOT more when it's apart a little.
UNBELIEVABLY BLUE sky here today! I hope things are good in Michigan.
Regards,
Alan
Hi Don,
Yes, that's what I found...a 1" longer bolt, or a total of 1" off the cushions, results in about 1/2" in body drop.
I better you're pretty excited about seeing your car with the hardtop on it. It's a GREAT look! I've always liked them.
Have fun tomorrow!
Regards,
Alan
How did you de-arch your leaf springs?
My rear springs have once ben replaced, 9 leafs, and it sits too high at the rear.
I'm planning to de-arch them in a hydraulic press, but your input is more than welcome.
Thanks
Lars
They were done in a hydraulic press by a shop that builds springs. They put it in the press, actuated the press, let it out, checked the change in arch. They had to repeat it one more time to get the 3" de-arch that I wanted. They didn't even hold it for more than a second. If you are using a manual hydraulic press, take it slow and go a little bit at a time. My springs worked fine like that for 4 more years until I replaced them with Airbags.
In that pack, I could have also removed the bottom overload spring, which would have lowered it slightly.
Why RE any leaf spring? I've had all kinds of leafs made, new, both regular and reversed eye mains, and install teflon inbetween f/ less binding, and they're cheap. I know in my area, Waco Spring and Brake is the best place, they make exactly what you want,and very reasonable. In the same building since either 1923 or 27. Don't waste time on used leafs.
Get the main leaf reversed f/ a lower ride height. Waco makes the new leafs on the old machines that you work by hand. These guys are "old timers" at this stuff. They put exactly what you want in the leaf, one at a time.
Last edited by texas jim; Mar 10, 2012 at 10:32 PM.