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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 09:16 AM
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Default Trailing arms question

I've got a pair of Global West offset trailing arms that I want to install. My existing trailing arms were rebuilt way back when and don't have a lot of miles on them. Can I simply transfer my spindle/hub assemblies over to the offset trailing arms or do they need to be rebuilt from scratch again?
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 10:18 AM
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You'll need to check and possibly reset the end play.
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 12:22 PM
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The Global West arms use 7/16 bolts instead of 3/8 studs. You will need to drill out the bearing supports, caliper brackets, and brake shields to the larger size. Also the opening for the bearing support tends to be a little small. I always have to bore them out to achieve a snug fit.
Mike
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by tracdogg2
The Global West arms use 7/16 bolts instead of 3/8 studs. You will need to drill out the bearing supports, caliper brackets, and brake shields to the larger size. Also the opening for the bearing support tends to be a little small. I always have to bore them out to achieve a snug fit.
Mike
Really? They say they are designed for the original hub. What do you use to bore them out?
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 02:26 PM
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A bridgeport mill.
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 02:44 PM
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FYI Mako. I had a lot of trouble with the getting the emergency brake cable routed. The arms were delivered with a too small round hole where a bigger hole was supposed to be. Here's the story.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ficulty-2.html

Hopefully you have the newer arms.
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by ignatz
FYI Mako. I had a lot of trouble with the getting the emergency brake cable routed. The arms were delivered with a too small round hole where a bigger hole was supposed to be. Here's the story.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ficulty-2.html

Hopefully you have the newer arms.
Great read Cliff, Thanks for posting!! I will be looking over my T-arms tonight.
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by MakoShark77
Really? They say they are designed for the original hub. What do you use to bore them out?
Why bother to sweat the little details like proper hole sizes when your one of the big names in the protouring crowd (its nothing that a good "Bubba" can't fix with his Harbor Freight drill motor.) Plus this isn't a part for a big audience like their Camaro/Impala/Chevelle stuff is. Quality stuff just like their jackhole control ARM bushing kit, another parts fail from GW.

Last edited by Solid LT1; Mar 13, 2012 at 07:46 AM.
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Solid LT1
Why bother to sweat the little details like proper hole sizes when your one of the big names in the protouring crowd (its nothing that a good "Bubba" can't fix with his Harbor Freight drill motor.) Plus this isn't a part for a big audience like their Camaro/Impala/Chevelle stuff is. Quality stuff just like their jackhole control ARM bushing kit, another parts fail from GW.
Another satisfied GW customer!! j/k

Seriously, I looked over my T-arms last night and they are exactly as ignatz described. Called GW and without any hassle at all a new updated set of T-arms is on the way. A big thumbs up to GW from me

It seems making this switch won't be all that tough. I expect my bearings/races to be ok as they don't have that many miles on them. Same with the seals. So just a quick check of the end play and that should have it. I love the look of these T-arms and I need more rubber on the ground!
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 05:20 PM
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I'm starting to come down on SolidLT1's side. Here's another thing to watch for. I bolted in my rear calipers and discovered that there is the potential for interference with the forward mounting bolt. The weld where the top tubing intersects the hub cylinder is further outboard and the caliper mounting bolt just clears. There's a 1/2" difference between the LH and RH side welds. I can't get a socket on it to correctly torque it either. I was able to set toe correctly. I think having the spherical bearing helps as otherwise with a poly bushing the arm would have to be at a different angle at the front mount which would aggravate binding at that point. Mako, you may want to trial fit your calipers to make sure you don't have a worse situation than mine before you commit. GW appears to have some serious quality control issues. SolidLT1, guess you've had some other problems you might care to share more?
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