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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark Riles
If I remember correctly the F-body brackets will accept either a CS130 or a CS144. I don't have a way to double check right now but if your friend has one then maybe just try it.
The guy I work with keeps forgetting to bring it in, but when I get it I'll give it a try. My concern is the large valve covers that I have on the engine. There is barely any room behind the CS130. My brother has another old CS130 to hold me over until I find something better.
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 08:02 AM
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Did you measure the pulleys?
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by MIKE80
My brother built it and said it's good for 8000 rpm, but with my current intake and exhaust, I'm not sure if it goes all the way to 8000. My tach only goes to 7000 and it easily pins it. Engine:

Block .040 over to 385 Stroker
Scat nodular crank 3.75" stroke
Keith Black Hypereutectic pistons
I would probably install a milder cam and sell the motor while it is still running because of these two items.

KB Hyper pistons are feet per second limited. (stroke length X RPM)

KB's are intended for lower rpm 350 ci. Your longer stroke 385 will exceed their design limits at an even lower rpm. If you don't believe me call them up.
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by bashcraft
Did you measure the pulleys?
Haven't had a chance yet. Hopefully tonight I can.
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by gkull
I would probably install a milder cam and sell the motor while it is still running because of these two items.

KB Hyper pistons are feet per second limited. (stroke length X RPM)

KB's are intended for lower rpm 350 ci. Your longer stroke 385 will exceed their design limits at an even lower rpm. If you don't believe me call them up.
I'll look into it and let you know what they say.
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 10:26 AM
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Altering the output capabilities of an alternator will have nearly zero affect on the RPM limits of the unit, totally separate issue.....

if anything, you maybe want a larger alt pulley , typically they are 2" so maybe 2.5 inch would help on that high RPM stuff, maybe even 3"

then you will have output troubles at lower RPM/idle will have to be closer to 1000 rpm in order to charge,

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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 10:36 AM
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My guess is that the alternator was somehow damaged to begin with. There are many people running high rpm motors and never have problems like this.
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 11:04 AM
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Mike80,
After looking at the photos of your engine, really nice motor btw, and seeing the small pulley on your alternator I'm convinced that your alternator failed from rpm and not heat. I feel fortunate that you started this thread because I have the same alternator and pulley as you do in your photo and the solid roller motor I just purchased will also tickle the 8000rpm limit. I never even considered an alternator failure like this one and now you can guarantee I will be adding a larger pulley to mine. I put the small pulley on when I had my last motor to keep the alternator spinning at idle to support Dewitt's fans, stereo, etc. Now with fuel injection I'm hoping that my idle will be a little more manageable. Good luck with the alternator replacement.
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by bashcraft
Did you measure the pulleys?
Kinda hard to see, but March crank pulley looks like 5.25" and March alt pulley 1.75". Also checked stock alt pulley 2.25".
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by MIKE80
Kinda hard to see, but March crank pulley looks like 5.25" and March alt pulley 1.75".
That puts it at 3-1 which I believe is what the stock pulleys are.
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by gkull
I would probably install a milder cam and sell the motor while it is still running because of these two items.

KB Hyper pistons are feet per second limited. (stroke length X RPM)

KB's are intended for lower rpm 350 ci. Your longer stroke 385 will exceed their design limits at an even lower rpm. If you don't believe me call them up.
I spoke to Marco from KB Pistons and he said that he didn't know where you got that information, but they use those pistons in many 383 engines with no issues, many have several thousand miles on them. He said if I had valve failure and something came into contact with the piston, it would shatter. He said I could switch to forged pistons, if I plan on spending a lot of time at the track, but they wear faster and do not last as long for street use which is my main use.
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by MIKE80
Kinda hard to see, but March crank pulley looks like 5.25" and March alt pulley 1.75". Also checked stock alt pulley 2.25".
If you are really hitting 8000 rpm then you are driving the alt at 133% of its redline. If it were me, I'd keep the crank revs down at 6000 until I came up with a solution for slowing down at least the alt.

The other accessories are vulnerable to over-speeding, too, so don't be surprised if there are more problems down the road.

Last edited by 45ACP; Mar 22, 2012 at 01:21 PM.
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 02:30 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by MIKE80
I spoke to Marco from KB Pistons and he said that he didn't know where you got that information, but they use those pistons in many 383 engines with no issues, many have several thousand miles on them. He said if I had valve failure and something came into contact with the piston, it would shatter. He said I could switch to forged pistons, if I plan on spending a lot of time at the track, but they wear faster and do not last as long for street use which is my main use.
Did you mention to him that you were revving the pistons up to 8000 RPM in the conversation, or just that you had them installed in a 383? Very different conversations...
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 02:41 PM
  #34  
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When you describe the crank as "nodular" I assume you mean nodular iron. If that's the case, with a hydraulic lifter cam, hypereutectic pistons and an iron crankshaft, I think you'll be pressing your luck revving to 8,000 rpm.
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by MIKE80
My tach only goes to 7000 and it easily pins it.

Lunati Bracket Master II hydraulic cam, 300 degree advertised duration, 246 degrees at .050 lift, 108 degree lobe separation, .515 lift
Last I heard hydraulic cams were only good for maybe 6500 rpm.
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Shark Racer
Did you mention to him that you were revving the pistons up to 8000 RPM in the conversation, or just that you had them installed in a 383? Very different conversations...
Yeah, he suggested getting it dynoed and find the power curve. I may not need the higher rpm's. He was more concerned that if the valvetrain failed because of higher rpm it would hit the piston and shatter it. That's why he said if I planned on doing a lot of racing to switch to forged which would dent, not shatter and a solid or roller cam. Right now my focus is getting another alternator back in and getting the 6 speed installed. As I said earlier, tach stops at 7000 and I don't think I'm hitting 8000 with my current intake and exhaust, plus I feel that I'm shifting without maxxing it out. And, it's not something I do all the time. I hope to dyno it later.

Gkull said "Your longer stroke 385 will exceed their design limits at an even lower rpm." So, I just wanted find out from them if I should be concerned.

Last edited by MIKE80; Mar 22, 2012 at 03:30 PM.
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