The internals of my CS130 alternator blew apart. The housing is full of shrapnel. I've been running a March underdrive pulley kit with a 89' Fbody serpentine setup. My stroker engine is good to around 8,000 rpm. The alt has less than a 1000 miles on it, bought new about a year and a half ago.

Anybody know the max rpm for a CS130 alt? Wondering if my setup is over revving the alt.

 

i'd guess about 7999 rpm.

 

What's the drive ratio of your pulley setup?

 

Not sure. These are the pulleys. I'm trying to find the ratio specs.

http://www.jegs.com/i/March+Performa.../4410/10002/-1

 

A quick Google search finds that the max rpm is 18,000. Just measure the pulleys and compare the diameters to figure what the alt will spin for a given tach reading.

Going by memory, the -stock- setup is around 3:1. 6000 on the tach would result in 18,000 for the alt.

 

My guess is the alternator was overheating and that led to the eventual failure. A stock CS130 will handle the needs of most electrical systems but it's working hard to keep up. You can either get a higher output CS130 or upgrade to a CS144. The more it handles the easier it has to work to keep up with your system. The easier it works the cooler it runs which also means it lasts longer.

 

The CS130 just fits with my valve covers. Is a CS144 larger in size? One of the guys I work with has a CS144 for a 96" Trans Am. He's going to bring it in and if it works he said he'll take $35 for it.

My extra electrical items consists of a vacuum pump, twin electric spal fans, MSD ignition, and electric fuel pump (besides the basic stuff, lights, etc.) No stereo installed. Also, I'll be converting the headlights to electric. I'm putting together the parts for that now.

 

According to those figures, with stock setup may alt would be between 21,000 to 24,000 rpm's during high revs.
I'll have to check into the pulleys I have and figure out the difference.

 

It is larger. If I recall correctly it will work if you change the location of the J bracket and you'll need a longer belt.

 

Mike80,
As sorry as I am about your alternator issues, I think it's friggin' cool as hell that you blew apart your alternator because you are driving that monster like you stole it. Awesome!

 

I have an old 350 CID that will spin to 7800 rpm. I've never had a problem with the stock alternator and pulleys.

 

Bashcraft,
Yeah, what I'm curious about is if Mike80 has a smaller pulley on his alternator that would cause his to spin abnormally fast vs. your stock pulley on your high revving power plant.

 

I have a serpentine setup from an 89' Firebird.

 

Actually, I've been taking it "kinda easy" because of the stock 4 speed. Can't wait to install the T56 6 speed sitting in my garage.

 

Mike, once you get the rpm issues sorted out, you might want to consider having a CS130 alternator reworked to give you more amperage to handle the load you have. I had mine reworked cost me about $90 at a local electrical rebuild shop. It puts out 137amps now at full load.

 

If I remember correctly the F-body brackets will accept either a CS130 or a CS144. I don't have a way to double check right now but if your friend has one then maybe just try it.

 

Consider yourself lucky that you still have a hood....

 

My powerMaster came with two pulleys and a tag that said 17,200 rpm max.

I had all ready blown my stock alternater many years ago when I had tranny failure with no rev limiter.

You just have to do the math on pulley diameter ratio.

My real question is what do have for an engine to turn 8000 rpm? Explain to me you whole setup please. I'm always interested to learn new things

 

My brother built it and said it's good for 8000 rpm, but with my current intake and exhaust, I'm not sure if it goes all the way to 8000. My tach only goes to 7000 and it easily pins it. I originally was planning on putting an upgraded TPI setup that I have on it, but after talking to Jim from Jim's Performance, he said that the engine was too much for the TPI and I needed to go with a carb setup. I'll throw a picture below when I had the TPI setup sitting on it.

Engine:
350 4 bolt main
Block .040 over to 385 Stroker
Balanced rotating assembly
Clevite bearings throughout
Scat nodular crank 3.75" stroke
Pioneer race balancer
AMS Racing H-beam rods good for 650hp (identical to Eagle rods)
Keith Black Hypereutectic pistons 10.25.1 compression with the 64cc heads
World Products iron 64cc heads 2.02 intake 1.60 exhaust valves 200cc intake runners
Summit Racing hardened pushrods
Crane Gold Series aluminum rockers 1.52 ratio
Lunati Bracket Master II hydraulic cam, 300 degree advertised duration, 246 degrees at .050 lift, 108 degree lobe separation, .515 lift intake/exhaust
Summit Racing double roller timing chain
Edelbrock Torker II intake manifold
Barry Grant Speed Demon 750 Carb. Mechanical secondaries
Edelbrock Victor Jr. reverse flow water pump (serpentine conversion)
March Underdrive Pulley Kit
Dewitt’s Aluminum Radiator with dual Spal fans
Hedman Side Exhaust Headers 1 5/8” Jet-Hot coated inside & out
Sweet Thunder 1969 Style Stainless Steel Side Exhaust
Royal Purple Synthetic Oil
MSD Distributor, Mechanical Advance
MSD 6A Ignition Control
MSD Blaster Coil
MSD Red Super Conductor 8.5mm Wires
ACDelco Professional Platinum Spark Plugs
K & N Air Filter
160-Degree Thermostat
Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel

 

Yeah, I know...It's completely blown apart inside the housing.