Gang,

I have an 82 and am puzzled. I began this project about 6 months ago after having owned the car about 2 years. Started the suspension refurb. Finished the front without any issues, now working on the rear. Dropped the exhaust, mono-leaf, and strut support under the diff. Ready to tackle getting those 30 year old Training Arms out. I have restored 4 other cars so I am not a rookie at this. (Restored the 350 2 weeks after we bought it. left the crossfire on it and got it running like a smooth Ferrari!)

Anyway, after researching how to get the half shafts off, I ran into a bit of a snag. I am supposed to have a flange with 4 bolts going in to the TA. Mine does not. It has a different type of flange that has no bolts and goes into the rear of the ta. Looks like the only way to get the HShafts out is to remove the 12 point hold downs on both ends. I would have expected a flange on the outbound sides.

Did they make some 82's without this arrangement? Not that it is a real issue, but none of the 12 points are budging. WOuld have been a lot easier to just drop a flange than deal with those 12 points. Going to replace them with normal graded bolts.

Pictures shortly as I am a greasy mess right now. I have new half shafts and a refurbed set of TA's that I was working up to go in after I have just the bearings and that inner-section done professionally.

 

I have a 81' four speed car and it's the same way, I think the 80-82's with the Dana rear ends are all that way. 81 four speeds and 82's both had 1350 u-joints on the half shafts.

 

Well, that's a bit of good news. Dana rear. Ok, but it still has me taking8 of those rust-welded bolts out. When you all use a wrench on it. Is it a socket or an open ended 12 point? I don't even know if they make such a thing.

 

1/4 inch 12 point I believe.

 

Any other comments on what now appears to be a Dana rear ?? It now makes me wonder when I take the TA's down to my Vette shop, if they can even use them or will they need to replace them with the standard flange variety?

 

Yep, that's what they are, and that's what they should be. The 81 doesn't have the flanges, but you can install them if you want to.

 

It has exactly what it should have.

 

Update: Ok I went back out and laboriously took all 16 bolts off that held the u-joint straps on. I found a 12 point 5/16. Was actually rather easy using a break bar and not too much force. Then I took the half shafts off. The u=joints are in great shape. No wobble at all and no noise. Just a slow, dampened movement as you would expect. Then I had a first hand look in the back of the TA. The center bolt of the pindle .. castle nut and cotter pin is sitting right there. Just a bit strange that there is no flange. I guess they designed out the extra 4 bolts. So now I am left with getting the TA's off. Going to try an air hammer to drive the bolt out as it is stuck in the one that a I got the nut off. Didn't try the other one. I hope to pickup an air hammer and use a thin punch adapter to persuade it to move in.

Question... Is the hub / spindle setup around the TA or is the TA allowing it to just pass through the opening and just have it held on by bolts? It would be nice to take 4 bolts off and watch the TA be clear of the bearing / spindle / hub piece. Thoughts?

Thanks to all that commented or read .. So I have a Dana rear? If so .. sweet!

 

The air hammer idea might not work out so well and I urge you to be very cautious. You can't get a straight shot at the end of the trailing arm bolt because of the rear fender lip. More than likely your long punch in the hammer will ride on or contact the fender lip and could cause some significant damage. Be very careful. Most of us bite the bullet and use a reciprocating saw and between 4 and 8 diamond blades. They'll need to be plenty long and it helps a lot to get the shims out first so you have easy access to the bolt. One cut on each side so a total of four cuts and you'll have your trailing arms out. Support them well. They fall out once released and are very heavy and awkward.

 

Yep, you can pull the hub and bearing assembly without pulling the TA. If you're going to pull the TA, I suggest pulling the shims (keep track of what came out where, this is part of the alignment, and you'll want to put back new shims like the old ones to get you close so you can take it to the alignment shop) first and soaking the area with a good rust penetrant like PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench. Depending on how bad yours are, you might want to soak them a couple times over night or so, then try to move them. If that fails, it's saw time, but you'll still need the shims out of the way...

 

I did mine a few months back. I used a 1/4 12pt socket on a 3/8 ratchet with various extensions. If you strip one like I did you can use a bolt extractor to get it out. I bought a craftsman one that had 1/4. Worked great! While I had the half shafts out I got one fixed and both balanced. Worked great!

 

I do have the half shafts out. I did have an issue with 3 bolts and fortunately I have that stripped bolt extraction socket from Craftsman. Worked perfectly! A restorers friend to be sure!

I agree that there is not a straight shot to get a punch in there to free up that darn bolt. I am going to soak the sides where the shims are with PB-Blaster tonight and see if anything moves tomorrow. I hate to go the saw route as that is just not right. I wish I could get a good wrench on the bolt head and then get a long lever pipe to gently apply pressure. I am so close. Once I get the TA's out, I an going to press out the shock-bolt, then see if I can get the bearing assembly out of the old TA's. That too would save me. THen I can just take the assembly to my local Vette shop for the re-work. I will keep everyone informed of the frustrations and progress. There has to be a better way to get that darn bolt out!

 

They are 1/4 12 point not 5/16 12 point. I never had a probelm if I use a good quality deep socket with 1/4 drive.

I run mine on the track and the straps and 12 point bolts are strong enough unless high HP/Torq drag motor so no reason to change.

 

I wouldn't get too excited about that. It's the weak link in the drive train.

 

So what would you use as replacement bolts? Grade 8, standard hex head, with a bit of blue locktite?

 

Contact Van Steel they have the replacement bolts (hex head) you should use. They also have a suspension video that is very helpful.

http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...p=1002&ID=1482

 

Ordering them as well as new u-joint caps tonight. Bought enough heavy metal sawzaw blades today to do the job just in case. I soaked it again tonight with PB Blaster. I also bought a good set of vice grips. Hoping to first grab the shaft and try to turn it. Maybe I'll get lucky! Also, I have some pitting but I have to believe that my half shafts are still solid and sound. I'm wondering if it's worth buying another set for $300 + cores. I can just wire-wheel these and paint with rustoleum.

Thoughts?

Thanks! and

 

Folks,

VanSteel just gave me one sweet deal on NEW half shafts with spicer u-joints and all caps / bolts Woo Hoo! Can't wait to put them on next week. Starting to come together!

 

Ok, finally got all the Trailing Arms off the car. Had to do the sawzaw and, yes, it took 6 blades. One trick is to buy the long blades and then, after about 10 minutes, cut the 1 inch end off that is word down and use the same glad with the next inch down. You really extend the life of the blade.

Anyway, here is my question. I have new, refurbed trailing arms from a great friend of mine. I was under the impression that I could just remove the spindle flange from the back of the old TA's, then remove the e-brake stuff to expose the 4 bolts. then, after taking off the 4 bolts, the TA's would separate from the bearing / hub. Any thoughts? As it doesn't do that, or it's rust-welded on. Can anyone point me to an exposed blowup of that assembly? It is not in the assembly manual.

 

80-81 Automatic cars use 1/4" Bolts. 80-81 Manual Trans Cars use 5/16Bolts. All 82's Use 5/16" even though there was no Manual Trans.