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Engine pre oil problem - no oil

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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 04:52 PM
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From: Scroggins Tx
Default Engine pre oil problem - no oil

I am trying to pre-oil my just rebuilt stock 350. I'm using a modified old distributor and 3/8th drill with plenty of rpm's. I have a pressure gauge just above the oil filter and it shows just over 50lbs, but I have no oil to any of the rockers.

I did a search and read a lot of post, but didn't find an answer. What should I do next?

Thanks, Dave.
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 05:04 PM
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How long have you been at it?
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 05:08 PM
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I've run it about 4 or 5 times for about 2 minutes each time.
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 05:14 PM
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Turn the crank over by 90 deg and 180deg and try again.

You need to match holes in the crank with holes in the block

Last edited by C3Paul; Mar 30, 2012 at 05:42 PM.
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 05:46 PM
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Dave. When you stop the drill does the pressure go to zero? Dumb question but are you going clockwise when looking from above the drill? Have you adjusted the valves yet and if so what procedure did you use? When I recently did the same to mine I got oil to all in about 20sec.. Some of the guys say you do not need to do this if you used assembly lube during the rebuild. I always do just to be sure. mike...

Last edited by mds3013; Mar 30, 2012 at 05:50 PM.
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 06:07 PM
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No cordless, use electrical driven drill, only.
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 06:09 PM
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The pressure does go to zero when the drill is stopped. I am going clockwise. The valves are adjusted useing the finger turn method and then 1/2 half turn. I followed the Haynes manual doing half the valves at #1 and half at #6. I just rotated the engine 90, 180, 270 and 360 and have oil at 3 rockers.

Would it make any difference if the lifters were moving? Thanks, Dave.
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by oledave60
I've run it about 4 or 5 times for about 2 minutes each time.

Try a corded drill, for longer than 2 minutes, and have a friend rotate the crank as you prime.
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 07:39 PM
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I just did this for my pre- break in cam 3 days ago. You need to rotate the crank a bit then retry. It should only take a few seconds before you see a small amount of oil coming up in the valves.
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by C3Paul
Turn the crank over by 90 deg and 180deg and try again.

You need to match holes in the crank with holes in the block
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 06:39 PM
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Got side tracked with yard work, but now back on the job. Tried turning crank and still nothing. I put the gear drive distributor in, hooked up battery, remote starter switch and spun the engine several times and still nothing. Next I'm going to re-adjust the valves and check each push rod to be sure it is open. Any and all suggestions welcome. Thanks, Dave.
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by oledave60
The pressure does go to zero when the drill is stopped. I am going clockwise. The valves are adjusted useing the finger turn method and then 1/2 half turn. I followed the Haynes manual doing half the valves at #1 and half at #6. I just rotated the engine 90, 180, 270 and 360 and have oil at 3 rockers.

Would it make any difference if the lifters were moving? Thanks, Dave.
You state you did half the valves at #1 firing position and the other half at #6 firing position which are 1 complete revolution away from each other. So why then do you mention you rotated the engine 90, 180, and 270? Did you do anything at any of those positions? Others may confirm this but if you colapsed the lifters I dont think you will get oil to the rockers?
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 07:10 PM
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It was suggested that I rotate the engine 90 degrees, 180 and try the drill at each position. I did this thru 360 with no results.

I just had a bad flash back. When I installed the crank bearings I don't remember there being a hole in the block side bearing. I feel sure the the upper and lower bearings were the same. This is a 80-85 CE 4 bolt truck engine. Should the block side bearing have a oil hole in it? I got the complete rebuild kit from Summit. Thank, Dave.
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 07:20 PM
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yes the hole in the bearing aligns with the hole in the block
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 07:28 PM
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If there is no hole in the block side bearing would this be my problem? Thanks, Dave.
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by oledave60
If there is no hole in the block side bearing would this be my problem? Thanks, Dave.
Yes. Once the assembly lube goes away there will not be any "new" lube to the bearings. As the crank rotates, the oil holes in the main journals line up with the holes in the block/bearings and gives it all a new shot of oil. The holes in the crank are drilled thru to the rod journals too. That's where the rods get their oil.
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by oledave60
If there is no hole in the block side bearing would this be my problem? Thanks, Dave.
Umm, I think you would scorch the journals on the crank very very quickly if this were the case
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 09:51 PM
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But my question is, If this is the case, would it prevent oil from coming up to the rockers?
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Old Apr 1, 2012 | 08:51 AM
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yes
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Old Apr 1, 2012 | 12:16 PM
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Trying to find a solution before pulling the engine I removed the intake manifold. Then moved pressure gauge to top of block and spun the pump. Still have 50# pressure and a very small trickle of oil coming down galley. Removed no. 1 exhaust lifter, spun pump and just a slight amount of oil is coming from hole that feeds the lifter.

Shouldn't there be a pretty hefty flow from this hole?
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