Hard start question
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,264
Likes: 3
From: Vero Beach FL
Hard start question
Last weekend I change out the heads on my 71 SB. The car has HEI distributor. I replaced the wires, plugs, cap and rotor. The car runs pretty decent once started but is now harder to start. If the advance weights were sticking open would that cause this? The manufacturer of the cap and rotor said that filing down the bushings to lower the weights might be required to keep them from hanging up.
The car used to start with the tap of the key.
Thanks Scott
The car used to start with the tap of the key.
Thanks Scott
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,264
Likes: 3
From: Vero Beach FL
I got it a little backwards it says that if your distributor has aftermarket weights ( mine dose) Interference between the bottom of the rotor and the bushing may result. To eliminate the chance of interference remove 1/10th to 1/8th from the bushing on the spring post. The manufacture is MSD.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,264
Likes: 3
From: Vero Beach FL
Mike you may be on to something. I have a "Summit Racing" carb. It has windows to observe the fuel level just checked and its below the line and I notice the smell of fuel after the car runs and sits. When setting the timing after dropping in the distributor it backfired a few times. I read something about a valve in that Summit carbs that can be damage if this happens. Does it sound possible?
Little research and I guess its the power valve that can blowout. I do not think that my problem I just looked again the fuel is below the window but the car started right up the fuel did return to the window line after starting.
Little research and I guess its the power valve that can blowout. I do not think that my problem I just looked again the fuel is below the window but the car started right up the fuel did return to the window line after starting.
Last edited by Roco71; Apr 1, 2012 at 05:45 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,714
Likes: 42
From: Austin Texas
Define "harder to start" a little more. Does the starter seem to struggle to turn the motor? Does it turn the same but just has to crank more to actually start?
starting fluid would troubleshoot fuel delivery issues.
Over advanced timing can also cause starting issues.
starting fluid would troubleshoot fuel delivery issues.
Over advanced timing can also cause starting issues.
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,264
Likes: 3
From: Vero Beach FL
It cranks just fine but takes time to fire. Reminds me of one of those old time airplanes firing up. I think I will try my old rotor cap and see that cures it. Maybe the weights on the distributor are getting stuck.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 3,220
Likes: 651
From: Thunder Bay
I think you're clutching at straws. If you're going to troubleshoot a problem. Start with the basics and go from there. If the engine turns over but won't fire, make sure it has everything it needs to run. Check the compression. Make sure its getting fuel. Check that you have adequate spark properly timed. If you have those things, it will start.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,264
Likes: 3
From: Vero Beach FL
The car starts just not like it should or did. I drove it to the store yesterday a 3 mile run. Came back 15 minutes later and had trouble starting it. The engine was not hot. I think I may more than one issue contributing.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,264
Likes: 3
From: Vero Beach FL
Ok here is the update. Apparently my cheap Chinese knock off distributor does not like the original parts from which it was copied. I put the old rotor back in and the car starts and runs great. I let the car sit form 20 minutes and it starts right up. Something else also happened my new radio quit working yesterday the IPOD worked but not the radio now the radio works again.
I sent Summit a question about the fuel bowls falling below the level line while not running.
Thanks, Scott
I sent Summit a question about the fuel bowls falling below the level line while not running.
Thanks, Scott
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,114
From: Crossville TN
Well, your method of 'problem solving' is the most effective, in this case. Whenever you experience a problem immediately after swapping parts, the most likely cause of your problem is the parts you swapped IN. So, that's a good reason to keep those old parts...at least, long enough to make sure you don't have a problem, before throwing them away.
Nice work.
{...just because it looks like the part you had, doesn't mean that it will work like the one you need...}
Nice work.
{...just because it looks like the part you had, doesn't mean that it will work like the one you need...}
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,200
Likes: 3
From: Lehigh county Pennsylvania
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,264
Likes: 3
From: Vero Beach FL
Well, your method of 'problem solving' is the most effective, in this case. Whenever you experience a problem immediately after swapping parts, the most likely cause of your problem is the parts you swapped IN. So, that's a good reason to keep those old parts...at least, long enough to make sure you don't have a problem, before throwing them away.
Nice work.
{...just because it looks like the part you had, doesn't mean that it will work like the one you need...}
Nice work.
{...just because it looks like the part you had, doesn't mean that it will work like the one you need...}
You are so right, I almost threw them out and then thought ...well just maybe. They look identical at first but MSD is heaver.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,264
Likes: 3
From: Vero Beach FL
I have seen guys post the question about these cheap distributors that are on eBay asking if they any good well ..... you get what you pay for and I can offer an honest review on the product now.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,412
Likes: 50
From: Laguna Niguel California
I'm a little confused following this thread. What was the Chinese part, the MSD distributor or the cap and rotor or the weights? This is good information for all of us.
Thanks, Bill
Thanks, Bill
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,264
Likes: 3
From: Vero Beach FL
Hello Bill
I bought the tach on eBay two years ago. It is a HEI tach drive for under $90.00 it looks like a MSD supposedly a stock replacement . Upon doing a basic tune up of replacing plugs, wires, rotor and cap I bought a MSD rotor and cap. The MSD was obviously better quality and everything did fit or so it seemed. The instructions for the MSD rotor it says that it is a GM stock replacement but that trimming of weight post bushing may be required for stock applications to prevent Interference between the bottom of the rotor and the bushing. For what its worth I replaced the springs two years ago when setting the curve on the timing as the distributor ran full advance at idle right out of the box.
Distributor, Chinese knockoff
Distributor cap and rotor, MSD
Weights and springs, Mr. Gasket
I bought the tach on eBay two years ago. It is a HEI tach drive for under $90.00 it looks like a MSD supposedly a stock replacement . Upon doing a basic tune up of replacing plugs, wires, rotor and cap I bought a MSD rotor and cap. The MSD was obviously better quality and everything did fit or so it seemed. The instructions for the MSD rotor it says that it is a GM stock replacement but that trimming of weight post bushing may be required for stock applications to prevent Interference between the bottom of the rotor and the bushing. For what its worth I replaced the springs two years ago when setting the curve on the timing as the distributor ran full advance at idle right out of the box.
Distributor, Chinese knockoff
Distributor cap and rotor, MSD
Weights and springs, Mr. Gasket
