Original-style sidepipes installation
Whats your experience - does it take som "tweaking" or bending of the pipes, or do they bolt right on as they are?
Another thing, how do I get the 90-bend (i.e front of door) to sit nicely close to the frame without hanging down?
finger tight, moved the pipe up to where I wanted and then tightened the bolts. The donuts allowed enough movement to still seal. Did not do any bending.
The pipes where Allen's aftermarket pipes.
I agree with R71.
Because of the distance and angle from the manifold bolts to the 90 degree turn, even a 1/8" difference at the manifold can make a big difference at that bend.
I used wood blocks to hold the pipe and muffler where I wanted it, and then tighened the bolts.
Again, as R71 said, the donut and inner sleeve help you make the seal.
Regards,
Alan
When I made the test-fit I used the heat riser replacement spacer. This will go between the manifold and exhaust without any donut.
I also have the sleeves and donuts, using these will probably lift the whole assembly 3/4 inch higher.
Another question: Can the sleeve and donut be removed and assembled again, since it is "crushed" when tightened?
/Johan
I would have thought that the donut/sleeve would still be used even with the spacer.
In my experiece yes; the donut isn't 'crushed' in such a way that it an't be reused.
Regards,
Alan
(They are upside down in the pic ofcourse)
The tapered end of the spacer goes directly against the exhaust pipe.
Seems to me that it would leak but what do I know??
From my Paragon catalogue, it looks like the early years heat risers used donuts, but not the later years.
My car came with these spacers on both sides but I see no point putting them back really. I guess I will use the donut/sleeve instead.

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