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I'm new at these forums and in the task I've started, rebuilding my differential for my 79 Corvette. 4.11 US gears.
This is my current pattern after 2 tries, but I'm not sure if this is a runner or not. The pinion shim used is 0.0155 (0.015?) and BL ranges between .0063" and .0079" Any opinions from you experts out there?
Don't mind the date :P
Thanks
Last edited by Bullseye83; Apr 10, 2012 at 05:56 PM.
Looks OK to me, you should be able to look up pictures of correct gear patterns in old manuels or on the net .
Your pattern looks like it has good contact and not running off the ctr too far. I would check the pattern on the oppisite side of the crown gear for good measure .
Something is not right. Shim size should be in the mid 20's.
Are these:
new gears or used gears
what brand bearings
That is the coast pattern. What does the drive pattern look like?
Mike
Something is not right. Shim size should be in the mid 20's.
Are these:
new gears or used gears
what brand bearings
That is the coast pattern. What does the drive pattern look like?
Mike
Thanks for commenting guys. There is a photo of the drive side on the link below the picture, don't know why it didn't appear as the first. What should be different? I'm getting mixed feedback on this pattern. I got this gearset at JustDifferentials.Com. Gear set: GMVET-411T-USG (US Gears?) One of the guys there told me I was good to go, the other told me it was a decent pattern, but would've added a 0.003" shim to the pinion. Getting really confused here :/
As for the bearings, these came with the rebuild kit from Nitro Gear and axle
(MK GMVET-C1). Everything is new, including the carrier.
Last edited by Bullseye83; Apr 10, 2012 at 06:15 PM.
Without knowing the exact brand it's hard to say. Going by your patterns you are shallow. I would go .002 or .003 like Bill said on the pinion shim. Be sure the rear pinion race is fully seated. If these were Yukon gears then .017 shim would be about right. Open your backlash up a little, average .008. Add a few drops of gear lube to your marking compound to get a cleaner pattern.
Mike
Without knowing the exact brand it's hard to say. Going by your patterns you are shallow. I would go .002 or .003 like Bill said on the pinion shim. Be sure the rear pinion race is fully seated. If these were Yukon gears then .017 shim would be about right. Open your backlash up a little, average .008. Add a few drops of gear lube to your marking compound to get a cleaner pattern.
Mike
So I should try running a 0.018 shim instead? *sigh* It was a real pita getting the pinion bearing off without breaking it, not using a setup bearing . By shallow you mean the drive pattern should be more towards the toe? Wouldn't this cause the pinion to start engage off the very edge of the toe? As is now it starts to engage slightly within the tooth face..?
Without knowing the exact brand it's hard to say. Going by your patterns you are shallow. I would go .002 or .003 like Bill said on the pinion shim. Be sure the rear pinion race is fully seated. If these were Yukon gears then .017 shim would be about right. Open your backlash up a little, average .008. Add a few drops of gear lube to your marking compound to get a cleaner pattern.
Mike
How come it's too shallow? There aint much face left towards the toe for a deeper pinion the way I see it ? If adding a thicker shim, wouldn't that result in the pinion engaging the very edge of the tooth?
Changing the pinion shim will move the pattern slightly to the toe. Your pattern is too far away from the root. The best drive pattern is on the teeth in the center of the pic is where you'll have your lowest backlash reading. All the other teeth have the pattern going shallow as the backlash increases. The deformation of the coast pattern is showing too little backlash. The pinion needs to go deeper towards the root to average out the drive pattern and then open up the backlash to clean up the coast pattern. As you open up the backlash the drive pattern will move towards the heal but the coast pattern will only move slightly.
The pattern you have now will work and will probably be quiet. What you can't see is the pattern on the pinion gear which will be high on the teeth.
Mike
Changing the pinion shim will move the pattern slightly to the toe. Your pattern is too far away from the root. The best drive pattern is on the teeth in the center of the pic is where you'll have your lowest backlash reading. All the other teeth have the pattern going shallow as the backlash increases. The deformation of the coast pattern is showing too little backlash. The pinion needs to go deeper towards the root to average out the drive pattern and then open up the backlash to clean up the coast pattern. As you open up the backlash the drive pattern will move towards the heal but the coast pattern will only move slightly.
The pattern you have now will work and will probably be quiet. What you can't see is the pattern on the pinion gear which will be high on the teeth.
Mike
Ok, I'll disassemble it and install the next available shim in the kit; 0.018" and post the results Thanks Mike.
Changing the pinion shim will move the pattern slightly to the toe. Your pattern is too far away from the root. The best drive pattern is on the teeth in the center of the pic is where you'll have your lowest backlash reading. All the other teeth have the pattern going shallow as the backlash increases. The deformation of the coast pattern is showing too little backlash. The pinion needs to go deeper towards the root to average out the drive pattern and then open up the backlash to clean up the coast pattern. As you open up the backlash the drive pattern will move towards the heal but the coast pattern will only move slightly.
The pattern you have now will work and will probably be quiet. What you can't see is the pattern on the pinion gear which will be high on the teeth.
Mike
Ok, here's how it looks with a 0.025" shim (measured the old one again, was actually 0.020" rather than 0.015" which I got first thought, weird) BL is now .787 - .905
It definately has moved towards the toe.... (The shim kit didn't have anything inbetween 0.020" and 0.025")
What do you think Mike? Somehow I liked the other better though :P
Last edited by Bullseye83; Apr 13, 2012 at 04:05 AM.
These are much better patterns. Now I believe that they are US Gears. You will not get the pattern you are hoping for because of the honing done on the gears which creates a slightly diagonal contact patch.
This pattern is almost perfect. You are slightly deep. An .023 shim and .001 less backlash would make it better. Put some gear lube on your brush and lightly recoat the teeth. Rotate the gears 10 times in both directions to get your average contact pattern. Yellow marking compound is hard to work with. Thinning it with lube will give you better results.
Mike
These are much better patterns. Now I believe that they are US Gears. You will not get the pattern you are hoping for because of the honing done on the gears which creates a slightly diagonal contact patch.
This pattern is almost perfect. You are slightly deep. An .023 shim and .001 less backlash would make it better. Put some gear lube on your brush and lightly recoat the teeth. Rotate the gears 10 times in both directions to get your average contact pattern. Yellow marking compound is hard to work with. Thinning it with lube will give you better results.
Mike
That's a relief, thanks. However, should I try getting my hands on some new shims that will put me in the .023 range or is this setup now good enough as it is? I will try to tighten up the backlash tomorrow and do another pattern check.
One more suggestion under the assumption with running 4.11 gears you will be running it hard so the suggestion is while you are at it .... polish the carrier. Smooth all the edges in the openings and round them plus then polish the edges and exterior. Also if you feel like taking the spider gears out it is worth it because then you have access to the casting lines that should be knocked down on the inside. A polished carrier reduces the risk of having the rough casting areas from cracking. Something you should really consider if you are running 4.11 gears because you are going to be doing hard launches.
Ok, I did not make any changes to BL. Here are the pictures with 10ish complete turns in both directions. Voidhead1, the car won't see the strip, it's for street use only. Should I consider polishing anyway? I've never heard\read anything about that before though. Thanks.
Ok, I'll crush it back together then It's time to get those wheels back on the road The carrier is from Auburns 'Pro' series. Thanks for your help guys, highly appreciated.
I'm very familiar with Jeremy's set-up since I walked him all the way thru it. However, that was on an eaton posi. This auburn will see no benefit to polishing and any radiusing will weaken the case. The eaton is a disc style unit while the auburn is a cone style.
Mike
tracdogg2, is that because the cone style is a better design and distributes the stress better and the machined holes for the pin to the window has more metal?
I certainly don't want to take over this post and first to stand corrected about the recommendation to polish and radius the hard edges of the auburn carrier. My bad, just was under the understanding all stress point metal parts can benefit with cutting down hard edges that could turn into stress cracks. Eaton posi carriers are very famous for that and that is what I put in my rebuild after I polished and radius the edges.