TPS voltage low code 22
#1
Racer
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TPS voltage low code 22
OK so i have replaced the TPS and adjusted it to .525±.075 volts as outline in the service manual, but i still continue to have a CEL 22. SO i guess my ? would be should i adjust the voltage up to say .59 and see if i still get the light? I assume there is a tolerance to compensate for wear and other variables.
ALso just started to get a code 13 WTF i hate this crossfire with a passion but just cant let it beat me ....... yet i dont have the cash to do the carb swap at this time.
ALso just started to get a code 13 WTF i hate this crossfire with a passion but just cant let it beat me ....... yet i dont have the cash to do the carb swap at this time.
#2
Team Owner
The next thing you need to do is disconnect one of the battery lines, then pull all of the connectors and electrical wires off the ECU. Clean all the connections and contacts in the connectors with alcohol and cotton swabs. Buy a little tube of dielectric grease at Radio Shack and wipe some on all connections. Don't forget the 12 vdc power "in" line and any ground lines; those and any connectors on those lines need to be cleaned/verified too.
Then put back together and fire it up. Cutting the power off will drop any old codes (which may be confusing the ECU) and maybe different codes...or none at all...will show up.
Then put back together and fire it up. Cutting the power off will drop any old codes (which may be confusing the ECU) and maybe different codes...or none at all...will show up.
#4
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Cleared the codes and it ran great no code till i turned it off and restarted the whamo. Will clean and verify soon not much time first camping trip this weekend got a bunch of stuff to do ,
#5
Team Owner
It's not impossible that the 'new' TPS is faulty, too. But, the TPS code doesn't mean that the TPS is the only possibility. It means that there is some problem with the signal obtained from the TPS sensor. So, it could be a wiring problem (internal break in a wire, etc.), connector problem, or something else in that circuit which results in a TPS reading that is outside the spec. limits placed in the ECU.
Last edited by 7T1vette; 04-11-2012 at 09:13 AM.
#6
Safety Car
It's not impossible that the 'new' TPS is faulty, too. But, the TPS code doesn't mean that the TPS is the only possibility. It means that there is some problem with the signal obtained from the TPS sensor. So, it could be a wiring problem (internal break in a wire, etc.), connector problem, or something else in that circuit which results in a TPS reading that is outside the spec. limits placed in the ECU.
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#8
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If you think some of the wiring on the engine is "suspect", just get an ohmmeter and check them out. Disconnect any connectors [so you can check just the wiring...not anything connected to it] and connect ohmmeter probes to each end of suspected wire. It should read near "0" ohms. Now, wiggle the wire around and watch for any changes to the readout. If it gets different readings (and the probes are solidly connected), then the wire is bad internally or at connector joints. If that wire runs into a larger bundle, you can connect a needle to one of the ohmmeter probes and push that needle thru the insulation and into the wiring at one end of your wiring run.
#9
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If you think some of the wiring on the engine is "suspect", just get an ohmmeter and check them out. Disconnect any connectors [so you can check just the wiring...not anything connected to it] and connect ohmmeter probes to each end of suspected wire. It should read near "0" ohms. Now, wiggle the wire around and watch for any changes to the readout. If it gets different readings (and the probes are solidly connected), then the wire is bad internally or at connector joints. If that wire runs into a larger bundle, you can connect a needle to one of the ohmmeter probes and push that needle thru the insulation and into the wiring at one end of your wiring run.
#10
Team Owner
Checking continuity on wiring is easy...if you know what you're doing. If you don't, ask a friend who does to help you. Just make sure you remove one of the battery cables so there is no battery power to the car when you work on it. I put a battery disconnect on the + side, so I can easily cut the power whenever I work on the car.
#11
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Checking continuity on wiring is easy...if you know what you're doing. If you don't, ask a friend who does to help you. Just make sure you remove one of the battery cables so there is no battery power to the car when you work on it. I put a battery disconnect on the + side, so I can easily cut the power whenever I work on the car.
#12
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Well cleaned all the grounds at the engine, checked all of the conection on the firewall no problems, cleaned ECM connections sure didnt seem dirty, clenaed all connections at the battery replaced 2 ring terminals at the battery found wires to have apprx 1/2 of the strands broken, reset the tps to exactly .525 volts.
I also reversed the wires at the pig tail splice of the new CTS not sur eif it mattered or not but she ran good for 20 mile cruise stoppe dat local BW3's let it cool off for 3 beers and she fired right up and ran well home, Doubt i fixed it but time will tell.
SO is there a correct way to wire the CTS up? Both wires of pigtail same color.
I also reversed the wires at the pig tail splice of the new CTS not sur eif it mattered or not but she ran good for 20 mile cruise stoppe dat local BW3's let it cool off for 3 beers and she fired right up and ran well home, Doubt i fixed it but time will tell.
SO is there a correct way to wire the CTS up? Both wires of pigtail same color.