New Clutch Vibrating
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
New Clutch Vibrating
78 with 4 speed and standard 3.36 rear end with 88K.
Last fall I had the clutch replaced because it was dragging and not disengaging completely.
It took three tries and three weeks before the shop said it was OK. Well shifting is good but the vibration is constant and both the clutch and brake pedals vibrate when the clutch is disengaged.
The shop said that the flywheel was not machined correctly the second time I returned it and that it is the best and the vibration is typical of a car that is 30 years old and has 88K on it.
I can see the clutch fork moving when the car is in neutral from idle to 3K RPM.
Would that be normal or do I need a new flywheel and service shop?
Last fall I had the clutch replaced because it was dragging and not disengaging completely.
It took three tries and three weeks before the shop said it was OK. Well shifting is good but the vibration is constant and both the clutch and brake pedals vibrate when the clutch is disengaged.
The shop said that the flywheel was not machined correctly the second time I returned it and that it is the best and the vibration is typical of a car that is 30 years old and has 88K on it.
I can see the clutch fork moving when the car is in neutral from idle to 3K RPM.
Would that be normal or do I need a new flywheel and service shop?
#2
Melting Slicks
I can't tell you exactly where your vibration is coming from, but I can tell you its not normal. There is something wrong with the clutch, pressure plate, or flywheel, and it has nothing to do with the fact the car is 30 years old. YOur mechanic is blowing you off, and you need to find a new one. And get ready to take that shyster to small claims court when you're done. Your car may be 30 years old, but that clutch is brand new, and it should perform like it.
#3
Team Owner
I'm sorry to say this, but your dragging/not dissengaging could have been as easy as a linkage adjustment or worst case worn away pressure plate spring fingers or throw out bearing.
When clutches or flywheels go bad it is slipping with the burnt smell.
I would say that you are victom now. If I put in new parts in a vehicle even if it is 50 years old it is still a new part.
When I was younger I got screwed by all kinds of professionals so I just started doing things myself or trusted friends in what ever area
When clutches or flywheels go bad it is slipping with the burnt smell.
I would say that you are victom now. If I put in new parts in a vehicle even if it is 50 years old it is still a new part.
When I was younger I got screwed by all kinds of professionals so I just started doing things myself or trusted friends in what ever area
#4
I'm sorry to say this, but your dragging/not dissengaging could have been as easy as a linkage adjustment or worst case worn away pressure plate spring fingers or throw out bearing.
When clutches or flywheels go bad it is slipping with the burnt smell.
I would say that you are victom now. If I put in new parts in a vehicle even if it is 50 years old it is still a new part.
When I was younger I got screwed by all kinds of professionals so I just started doing things myself or trusted friends in what ever area
When clutches or flywheels go bad it is slipping with the burnt smell.
I would say that you are victom now. If I put in new parts in a vehicle even if it is 50 years old it is still a new part.
When I was younger I got screwed by all kinds of professionals so I just started doing things myself or trusted friends in what ever area
I agree
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I can't tell you exactly where your vibration is coming from, but I can tell you its not normal. There is something wrong with the clutch, pressure plate, or flywheel, and it has nothing to do with the fact the car is 30 years old. YOur mechanic is blowing you off, and you need to find a new one. And get ready to take that shyster to small claims court when you're done. Your car may be 30 years old, but that clutch is brand new, and it should perform like it.
I think on Monday we will give the shop one chance, but I think it may take doing it myself. A buddy and I did the front end, Borgeson steering box and replaced the TA mounting bolts and strut rods so a Chevy Dealer could align the car. That was work and it works great.
#7
Melting Slicks
If you did the front end, you can certainly rebuild a clutch. Make sure you use quality parts. There's a lot of junk out there. I have a Centerforce clutch and pressure plate in my '66 and I love it. I would have the flywheel balanced before you put it back in given the problem you are having. You want to know its right. Even if you elect to buy a new one, have the balance checked. Also replace your pilot bushing while its apart. I like the roller bearings, but there are lots of guys on this site that prefer the bushing.
#8
Race Director
#9
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Feb 2006
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sounds like the pressure plate and flywheel balance marks are off, the pressure plate should have had a mark to where it was balanced and the flywheel the same. need to line them up
#10
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2004
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St. Jude Donor '05
x 2
Usuallly they will have a mark or grease pen line at least on both so they are "clocked" correctly or it will vibrate. Absolutely have it balanced and if the marks arent there have the machine shop mark them for you so it goes in right.
Make SURE your pilot bushing isnt too tight before you put it in. Usually cant go wrong with a good quality Lakewood....
I let the machinist stick one of his in when he did my bottom end. I did not check it.
Wound up being a cheapie
Trans was VERY tough to get in but Im stubborn so in it went
Nothings worse than going throuhg all that hassle wanting to fire and at last drive a motor for the first time only to hear a loud SQUEEEAL! and not being able to get er in gear
lol.
If youre lucky it will wear in some
If not it may spin in the crank or worse.
Usuallly they will have a mark or grease pen line at least on both so they are "clocked" correctly or it will vibrate. Absolutely have it balanced and if the marks arent there have the machine shop mark them for you so it goes in right.
Make SURE your pilot bushing isnt too tight before you put it in. Usually cant go wrong with a good quality Lakewood....
I let the machinist stick one of his in when he did my bottom end. I did not check it.
Wound up being a cheapie
Trans was VERY tough to get in but Im stubborn so in it went
Nothings worse than going throuhg all that hassle wanting to fire and at last drive a motor for the first time only to hear a loud SQUEEEAL! and not being able to get er in gear
lol.
If youre lucky it will wear in some
If not it may spin in the crank or worse.