When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I started up the car, noticed the needle bouncing back erratically and then it shot all of the way to the right and hasn't moved. My first thoughts are that its either the sensor or gauge itself. Any one have suggestions on how to check to see where the problem is?
I started up the car, noticed the needle bouncing back erratically and then it shot all of the way to the right and hasn't moved. My first thoughts are that its either the sensor or gauge itself. Any one have suggestions on how to check to see where the problem is?
Disconnect the sensor. Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance at room temperature. It should read ~550 ohms depending on the temp. The resistance will decrease as the engine warms up. At 180*, it will read ~123 ohms.
If the sensor checks out, it could be the gauge or a short in the wiring.
I hesitate to hijack the thread. I have a very similar problem. I took the car out of storage. When the temperature did not read above 120F, I installed a new 180F thermostat thinking it was stuck open. The old one looked perfect. Shame on me.
The block sender reads the correct ohms for 180F when the thermostat opens as noted by the hot water flow in the top hose.
With the thermostat open at 180F and a resistance of around 150 ohms, the temperature gauge still indicates around 120F. That's corresponds to about 200 ohms too high. I am now searching for other sources of resistance.
Teflon tape on the sender threads. The electrical ground for that circuit is the 'bare metal' connection between the threads on the sender and cylinder head. If you used tape or an insulating pipe compound, that circuit resistance could have increased.