Okay so I'm new to this but I just got the Haynes Holley Carburetor Manual thanks to suggestions from you guys.

1) First prob is identification. Even with the manual I can't figure out exactly what model of 4-barrel carb I have. It has an automatic choke, but the manual pictures are grainy and there are a few very similar ones. Any idea?

2) I was having issues with a rough idle quickly resulting in a stall when the engine is warm and choke goes fully off. I went down the path of adjusting the idle mixture according to the manual. Manual says to turn one idle mix screw counterclockwise (leaner) until idle speed drops, then turn it clockwise (richer) until idle stop increasing - then turn it back very slightly. Then repeat on the other side.

So I ended up with the drivers side screw 1/4 turn richer and idle smoothed right out. Thing is, I can't access the passenger side screw. There's another piece - labelled "dashpot assembly" in the manual - blocking access to the screw. Looks like it controls the secondary butterfly valves. Do I need to remove this to get at the passenger side idle mix screw?

3) What is the lever pointed out in the passenger side picture? I don't see that in any of the models in the manual.

4) Aren't there supposed to be plugs in the sight holes?

Driver Side:

Passenger Side:

Overhead:




Thanks for all your patience. Despite the small issues this thing has been a blast and I've been driving it nearly every day. Nothing like driving around with the T tops off in February in PA thanks to this crazy weather

 

The ID number should be stamped on the choke horn.

The "dash pot" is the choke pull off. This is not a vacuum secondary carburetor.

Remove the choke pull off to set the idle mixture. Set the idle mixture when the engine is fully warmed up.

The float level is adjusted by taking them off and setting them with a gauge.

The "lever" is actually the ported vacuum tap for the distributor

BigBlockk

Later......

 

Depending on the type of intake manifold you have, you cannot adjust one of the idle mixture screws and then adjust the other. In general (regardless of the type manifold), you should make small adjustments to both at the same time. When you do adjust, turn the screws in increments of 1/4 turn (or less) at the same time. Turn out until speed no longer increases; then turn in until idle speed just starts to slow; then turn out about 1/4 turn.

Because of differences between each side of the carb, you may need to fine-tune each idle screw just a bit different from the other when you get to the second step of the above procedure.

 

You are not missing "sight plugs". Your arrow is pointing to the secondary metering block that does not have idle bleed adjustment for the secondaries. Some carbs have adjustable secondary idle bleeds ("four corner idle") and that recess would be drilled and tapped for idle bleed screws.

 

Your "sight plugs" in that carb are the large screws in the side of ea float bowl. Not every holley has the mixture screws on all 4 corners. Most times you dont need 4 corner anyway.

If its loading up and dying at idle Id check the float adjustment could be a touch high. Seems Holley has a certain standard of what "good" should be gotta see what works for you.


May want to check your power valve also if they go bad it can dump fuel. A blowout protection kit is very cheap and easy to install so if you cough back through the carb it doesnt hur them.
They do work. Cant tell you how many times Ive burped mine from putting the dist in a tooth off and not once has a PV blown.

 

That style of Holley does not have externally adjustable floats and therefore does not have sight plugs in the bowl to check fuel level. As indicated by BigBlockK, the float level is adjusted by removing the bowls and measuring the float height with the bowl upside down. If it is idling and running well, there is no reason to pull the bowl off to check it.

Your carb number is the number immediately after the word "List" on the choke horn, viewed from the front.

 

Thanks much, float check is next. It idled fine (after adjustment) when hot in the driveway then resumed stalling out when I went for a drive. I also had another issue related to hard braking so this adds to cause to check float levels.

 

BINGOWhat he said. You have a 4165-style carburetor, which was made specifically as a replacement for a Rochester Quadrajet. It does not have adjustable floats, sight plugs in the float bowls, or four-corner idle. As already mentioned you'll likely have to remove the choke pull-off dashpot in order to access the right-hand idle mixture screw unless you can find an offset screwdriver to adjust it with.

These carbs are popular with the C3 Vette crowd because they are dimensionally so similar to a QJet and fit the spread-bore style intake, but they don't get much recognition in many of the Holley books out there because they're not really considered a 'performance' carburetor. It is ease of adjustability/tunability that makes Holleys so attractive to so many people, and this is the one carburetor that Holley made (actually they still make it) that really has none of those features.

I have one in a box at home; fought with it for a few months, and finally went back to the Rochester. It's ugly but it doesn't take up as much space on top of the motor as the Holley does and it doesn't leak or act stupid. If I was to go back to the Holley it would be a 4150-style squarebore on top of an aluminum squarebore intake. My $1.380

 

If you use a very small screwdriver held at an angle you can reach the right side mixture screw. The rich/lean turning you are describing is backwards and is not for this carburetor. Turning the screw clockwise leans it, counter clockwise richens it. Can you provide the list number as previously requested? On the overhead view you show a rubber hose connected to a fitting on the secondary side, where is that hose going?