Adjusting Steering Box - Lash
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Anderson SC
Adjusting Steering Box - Lash
Is there a paper out there for properly adjusting the steering box lash and/or the relay rod too?
I'm going for my alignment tomorrow AM and I really want to get those "tight" before it gets there.
-W
I'm going for my alignment tomorrow AM and I really want to get those "tight" before it gets there.
-W
Drifting
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From: Kissimmee fl
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To correctly adjust the lash on the steering box, you are supposed to disconnect the pitman arm and the rag joint and use an inch pound torque wrench to adjust the lash. I think the experts like about 5 in. lbs of torque input for the setting. IIRC.
Not sure if you have power or non steering, but on non power, I do not see how to adjust the relay rod. They can be rebuilt with new ball stud, seats and spring, but unless you over compress the spring, there is not any adjustment.
If I am off here, I'm sure someone has the correct info.
Not sure if you have power or non steering, but on non power, I do not see how to adjust the relay rod. They can be rebuilt with new ball stud, seats and spring, but unless you over compress the spring, there is not any adjustment.
If I am off here, I'm sure someone has the correct info.
Le Mans Master
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wilcox has a tech http://willcoxcorvette.com/instructi...ice_manual.pdf
and the other one
http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...13353625434422
and the other one
http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...13353625434422
Last edited by oldalaskaman; Apr 25, 2012 at 10:03 AM.
Le Mans Master
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From: Saginaw Michigan
The best way to set steering gear box sector shaft preload is with an inch-lb torque wrench with the gear out of the car. The first thing to check is the sector shaft adjuster screw. On top of the gear you will see a threaded screw with a locking nut right in the center or the top cover. There should be at least three threads of the screw sticking up from the locking nut. (If there are not threads showing, that means that the gear has been adjusted in the past and things are so worn that there is no further adjustment possible.)
However, assuming there are threads showing, the preload can be brought into the "ballpark" with the gear in the car (if you are careful.) You will need to make small adjustments to the sector shaft and actually drive the car a short distance to check lash and gear returnability.
Here is the address for this Microsoft Word document.
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?p=810
Jim
However, assuming there are threads showing, the preload can be brought into the "ballpark" with the gear in the car (if you are careful.) You will need to make small adjustments to the sector shaft and actually drive the car a short distance to check lash and gear returnability.
Here is the address for this Microsoft Word document.
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?p=810
Jim
Team Owner
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From: Crossville TN
As Jim_Shea described, the 'risk' associated with making a lash adjustment is having smooth operations throughout the entire steering gear travel (lock-to-lock). If there is significant wear only in the center of travel, you can adjust that out with the lash screw---but you can still end up with tight or binding conditions whenever the steering travel is away from the center of travel.
So, when making adjustments, you need to do a 'driving/steering test' after every adjustment, making full-lock turns both left and right, to assure that there are no tight spots in the steering range. If you can eliminate the 'slop' at the center of steering and NOT have any tight spots anywhere in the steering range, you should be "good to go".
So, when making adjustments, you need to do a 'driving/steering test' after every adjustment, making full-lock turns both left and right, to assure that there are no tight spots in the steering range. If you can eliminate the 'slop' at the center of steering and NOT have any tight spots anywhere in the steering range, you should be "good to go".
Le Mans Master
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From: Saginaw Michigan
The rack and sector teeth were designed with a slight interference right on center (for good crisp down the road feel). They also were designed to have a slight clearance either side of center, all the way to full lock (providing good returnability after making a turn).
You always make the adjustment with the gear exactly on center. If you try to make a sector shaft adjustment and eliminate the clearance off center you run the real risk of damaging the gear teeth as the gear tries to come back to center.
Jim
You always make the adjustment with the gear exactly on center. If you try to make a sector shaft adjustment and eliminate the clearance off center you run the real risk of damaging the gear teeth as the gear tries to come back to center.
Jim
Le Mans Master
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The rack and sector teeth were designed with a slight interference right on center (for good crisp down the road feel). They also were designed to have a slight clearance either side of center, all the way to full lock (providing good returnability after making a turn).
You always make the adjustment with the gear exactly on center. If you try to make a sector shaft adjustment and eliminate the clearance off center you run the real risk of damaging the gear teeth as the gear tries to come back to center.
Jim
You always make the adjustment with the gear exactly on center. If you try to make a sector shaft adjustment and eliminate the clearance off center you run the real risk of damaging the gear teeth as the gear tries to come back to center.
Jim
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
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From: Anderson SC
I'm going to back it out a bit again this AM before going for the alignment at noon.
I'll also see what the specialist makes of it while I'm there.
Thanks to all so far....
-W
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The rack and sector teeth were designed with a slight interference right on center (for good crisp down the road feel). They also were designed to have a slight clearance either side of center, all the way to full lock (providing good return ability after making a turn).
You always make the adjustment with the gear exactly on center. If you try to make a sector shaft adjustment and eliminate the clearance off center you run the real risk of damaging the gear teeth as the gear tries to come back to center.
Jim
You always make the adjustment with the gear exactly on center. If you try to make a sector shaft adjustment and eliminate the clearance off center you run the real risk of damaging the gear teeth as the gear tries to come back to center.
Jim
Le Mans Master
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From: Saginaw Michigan
The teeth on the sector shaft are actually cut on a very slight angle. (Looking straight up and down into the teeth in your photo.) So as the teeth wear the lock nut can be loosened and the adjuster screw rotated to push the sector shaft down into the rack teeth.
That is why one of the basic checks is to inspect to see if there are any threads showing above the lock nut on the top cover. (There should be three threads showing above the lock nut.) If there are no threads showing, the sector shaft has been pushed down into the rack to a point where there is no more adjustment left.
Jim
That is why one of the basic checks is to inspect to see if there are any threads showing above the lock nut on the top cover. (There should be three threads showing above the lock nut.) If there are no threads showing, the sector shaft has been pushed down into the rack to a point where there is no more adjustment left.
Jim
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
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From: Anderson SC
As a follow up - I rebuilt my relay rod 2 days ago and had the chance to play with the steering box a bit while the Pittman arm was disconnected.
Mine is worn in the center a bit - but I still have 1.5 - 2 threads showing and got the best "compromise adjustment" out of it that was possible.
Thanks for all the insight - and thanks for the great papers Jim!!!
-W
Mine is worn in the center a bit - but I still have 1.5 - 2 threads showing and got the best "compromise adjustment" out of it that was possible.
Thanks for all the insight - and thanks for the great papers Jim!!!
-W
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
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From: Anderson SC
If you take off one cotter pin and undo the relay rod guts (to clean and re-grease or replace them) - you can easily "feel the box" by itself with the Pittman arm disconnected.
-W
Le Mans Master
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when I used to do alignments and steering adjust was included in the service, on chevy's, an 8th is about all you want. Center the steering wheel, and the tires, watch the front tire, move the steering wheel left and right and make note of how far you move it each direction before the tire moves. less than 2" leave it alone, more than 4" do the 8th. Check it again, if its to tight , back it off a 16th. Make sure you use a driver to hold the bolt as you tighten the lock nut so you wont over tighten. You are better off a bit loose than to tight. hope this helps
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would this adjustment also be correct for a steering wheel that is off center several degrees? Car tracks straight, tire wear appears normal. Steering wheel just off to the left several degrees
No hijack intended just an expansion on same topic intended.
Thank you
Marshal
No hijack intended just an expansion on same topic intended.
Thank you
Marshal
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,343
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From: Anderson SC
would this adjustment also be correct for a steering wheel that is off center several degrees? Car tracks straight, tire wear appears normal. Steering wheel just off to the left several degrees
No hijack intended just an expansion on same topic intended.
Thank you
Marshal
No hijack intended just an expansion on same topic intended.
Thank you
Marshal
-W