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Heres a real quick question- I'm rebuilding my heater box right now on my non-ac 1974, and the instructions sent with the kit say to "seal the lower channels under the heater core with butyl tape, which will use 8" per side. I did the top and bottom, which used about 8", but since it is not square and it says it needs 8", I am hesitant about using up the butyl tape that was included if I dont need it. Should I seal with the butyl tape all around the heater core, or just the top and bottom? Will I still have enough (it says 53") to do the firewall seal with it?
Isnt this standard insulating foam that you can find in long strips of different thickness at Home Depot and similar outlets?
No, I'm talking about the butyl tape that comes in the kit. I'll just go an measure it and if there is enough I will use it and if not, I wont. I just wasnt sure if that was the proper procedure or not (using the butyl tape in the lower channels of the heater box to seal the heater core to the box).
This is my inside heater box after rehab. The kit I purchased included the gasket that is in 2nd image.
You are asking about perimeter of the engine-side box then, correct? This is the quickest shot I could find of that piece.
Whatever length it takes to fill in the perimeter, I suppose. Again, the kit I had came with a premeasured gasket and I simply peeled and stuck before mounting.
Found this picture to show layout of the perimeter.
Here's mine as it was removed. You can see the outline of where the factory laid down the original tape or gasket.
( Note the hand written datestamp of "10-8" inside box; my car's BD is alleged to be 10-13-1971 according to the door jamb tag. )
Mo' better?
Originally Posted by Dustup7T2
I also have a non-AC car.
This is my inside heater box after rehab. The kit I purchased included the gasket that is in 2nd image.
You are asking about perimeter of the engine-side box then, correct? This is the quickest shot I could find of that piece.
Whatever length it takes to fill in the perimeter, I suppose. Again, the kit I had came with a premeasured gasket and I simply peeled and stuck before mounting.
Hope that helps.
Thanks for all of the great pictures, but actually, the seals I'm talking about are the ones under the heater core when it is mounted in the heater box. The rebuild guide says to put a layer of butyl tape in the channels at the bottom, and I'm not sure if A: I have enough to do it, and B: if it is what should be done.
Here is what I'm talking about. I already have the seals in the one set of channels, but do I also need it on the ridges that are purpendicular to the seals that are already installed or does it look good as is?
Heres the codes in my blower box....do they mean anything to you guys? My car is a 1974 built September 19, 1974.
After I removed the box, here's where the factory had any sealant or gasket. Bottom is the right side of first photo. I see what appears as (black?) sealant along the left side and along the top and approximately, a third down the right side and almost nothing along the bottom:
When I placed the heater inside, I only used a couple of 4" long strips of foam insulation along top and bottom to keep the core from rattling. I imagine that is the goal: to keep the heater from rattling against the box.
After I removed the box, here's where the factory had any sealant or gasket. Bottom is the right side of first photo. I see what appears as (black?) sealant along the left side and along the top and approximately, a third down the right side and almost nothing along the bottom:
When I placed the heater inside, I only used a couple of 4" long strips of foam insulation along top and bottom to keep the core from rattling. I imagine that is the goal: to keep the heater from rattling against the box.
This is just prior to heater install.
Thanks! Yours looks great, too!
It looks like what I have is what I'll go with. Like you said, it is really only to stop it from rattling.
Thanks for all of the help with this, I'm off to go finish the heater box.....