Pelayo,

I have never dealt with Autozone as I live overseas, but I have been on this Forum long enough to learn at least TWO things.

1. I'm told that Autozone (re)build to a price, not a standard.

2. All the guys here who have purchased from Muskegon Brake, a Forum sponsor, have spoken well of them.

My advice is to first consider if you want to retain a "numbers matching" car. If so, changeover calipers are more likely than not to stop your car from being numbers matching. This could affect the selling price once you decide to sell it.

If you decide to keep your original calipers, at least have them pulled apart and checked by a recognised brake technician. Maybe all that they need is a hone and some new rubber seals. Even if it needs new pistons, at least you will get your original calipers back. I'm sure that Muskegon would rebuild your original calipers and return them to you if you requested that.

See if you can have the two rear rubber lines pressure tested. If they pass, keep them. If they fail, replace them. While the rear calipers and hoses are off, blow compressed air through the rear brake line to clear out any junk and flush it with methylated spirits before reassembly.

Considering the age of the car, I recommend that you do this to the front brake lines and prop. valve as well. When all the brake lines are reconnected, it is time to bench bleed your MC.

To "bench bleed" the master cylinder, you have two choices: take the MC out of the car and mount it in a vice and pressure bleed it there or do it the easy way. Obtain two about one foot lengths of steel brake line, even from a wrecking yard, that have the correct fittings for your MC. After removing the two factory brake lines that come from the MC, screw these short lengths of line into the ports then carefully bend them up in an arc and then down into the MC so that they terminate BELOW the level of brake fluid.

Then fill the MC with fluid and SLLLOOOWWWWLLLYYY pump the pedal (or have a helper do this) and observe the bubbles that come from the ends of the pipes. If you pump it fast with the cover off, you will quickly realise why you shouldn't. Once the bubbles stop, then the MC is bled. One at a time, remove these short lines and reconnect the factory brake lines.

Then you can start bleeding the calipers. Keep a constant eye on the level in the MC or you will have to bleed it again.

Good luck.

Regards from Down Under.

aussiejohn

 

Damn I didn't know that about auto zone. I'll be sure to save up and try to get one of those muskegon brake caliper sets for my rear, and eventually my front. Although I was thinking of saving up for the willwood 6 piston fronts and 4 piston rears.
And thanks for that explanation on how to bench bleed the master cylinder. I was a bit confused with other information out there online. Cleared it up. Bookmarked this thread thanks aussiejohn.

 

If your on a tight budget the AZ calipers will work just fine and they come with a lifetime warranty. Get new rubber hoses while your doing the job, the old ones may be 35 years old.
Here's how to bench bleed the MC, AZ has a cheep kit in the help section.

 

Yeah I'll just get Autozone calipers meanwhile until I get willwood or Muskegon. Employee discount so it'll be inexpensive.
And I had thought the hoses that came with my master cylinder were for the bleeder screws. Always wondered why they didn't fit on the screws. I still have em. I'll get to that this weekend.