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So Im finishing up my first rebuild of a motor and I have some questions on fuel line from pump to carb. I dont want to reuse the hard line since it just looks plain ugly. But Ive never dealt with fuel line fittings. So I need some help on deciding what I need. The carb feed line has a 3/8" NPT for an input and I believe the fuel pump has the same for output. Any suggestions or help would be great!! Thanks!
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Bend up hard lines. GM used hard line on the pressure side of the pump for a reason: It's safe and reliable.
For complete instructions, with part numbers, you can e-mail me a request for my "How to Build a Fuel Line" tech paper. A couple of engines I've built using the parts and techniques described in my paper:
So Im finishing up my first rebuild of a motor and I have some questions on fuel line from pump to carb. I dont want to reuse the hard line since it just looks plain ugly. But Ive never dealt with fuel line fittings. So I need some help on deciding what I need. The carb feed line has a 3/8" NPT for an input and I believe the fuel pump has the same for output. Any suggestions or help would be great!! Thanks!
If it's the stock fuel pump and stock carb, you can order a new fuel line from lots of different places. If not, take Lars' advice, it's a really good paper on how to bend up fuel lines. I am in the midst of fabbing up a fuel line for my Holley right now, thanks to Lars paper.
I dont want to reuse the hard line since it just looks plain ugly.
What the hell has "ugly" got to do with it? It's a fuel line, not a blind date. Polish or paint it to make it look acceptable or replace it with a line as per Lars' paper. Please.
From: Where it's always hot as Hell-South Louisiana.
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Does anyone know how many engine compartment fires start from a bursted flex fuel line ?
I'd bet the vast majority are from this one item.
With that said, the ZZ4 crate i just installed came from the supplier with a braided flex hose. A hard line will be installed this summer.
I'm in agreement with Lars that GM designed a hard line from pump to carb for a reason.
If you depend on a flex hose from pump to carb, then you should always carry a fire extinguisher and be able to use it readily...IMHO..
By the way, I'm not having any luck with a fuel gauge. The 2 I got both went bad after only a couple of hours. Any suggestions without breaking the bank ?
Last edited by mikejpss; May 14, 2012 at 10:18 AM.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by ltblue79
I have to make a new hose
If you're going to run hose, I hope you also have a fire extinguisher... I've seen several Vettes and musclecars burn to the ground due to hose on the pressure side of the system. If you run any type of flexible line, at least use good quality fuel compatible hose with screw-on end fittings, such as "AN" braided steel line or other hose material (Parker makes fuel-specific hose designed for good end fittings) intended for fuel system pressure lines.
Its a stock pump but after market from there up so it wont work. I have to make a new hose
There may be some confusion here regarding the terms fuel hose and fuel line. A hose is flexible, and can flop around and chafe and develop a leak, and since it's under pressure, it won't just drip, it'll squirt all over the place; there are better situations to have going on under the hood than that! Fuel line is rigid, made of metal, and much safer. You probably meant fuel line when you said hose, but we can't be sure of that. It's important to get your terminology correct. BTW, at this point, a pic or two would help out a lot.
There may be some confusion here regarding the terms fuel hose and fuel line. A hose is flexible, and can flop around and chafe and develop a leak, and since it's under pressure, it won't just drip, it'll squirt all over the place; there are better situations to have going on under the hood than that! Fuel line is rigid, made of metal, and much safer. You probably meant fuel line when you said hose, but we can't be sure of that. It's important to get your terminology correct. BTW, at this point, a pic or two would help out a lot.
Keep the shiny side up!
Scott
I did mean line. I will be using hard lines for the pump to carb. After reading Lar's paper it doesnt seem to be as hard as I thought. I just need to get a double flare tool and some fittings. The carb supply line from summit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3120-1/ Is what I have to hook to my carb. It has a built in fuel filter so it will make less work for me. At least I hope so!
I did mean line. I will be using hard lines for the pump to carb. After reading Lar's paper it doesnt seem to be as hard as I thought. I just need to get a double flare tool and some fittings. The carb supply line from summit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3120-1/ Is what I have to hook to my carb. It has a built in fuel filter so it will make less work for me. At least I hope so!
It has a 3/8"NPT fitting, doesn't it? It would make things easier for you if you could find a fitting that would screw into the female 3/8" NPT on the Summit fuel line, and on the other side accept a 5/8" x 18 inverted flare. I'm not positive, but I think this fitting will do the trick. Can anybody verify?
I did mean line. I will be using hard lines for the pump to carb. After reading Lar's paper it doesnt seem to be as hard as I thought. I just need to get a double flare tool and some fittings. The carb supply line from summit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3120-1/ Is what I have to hook to my carb. It has a built in fuel filter so it will make less work for me. At least I hope so!
I'm glad you've come to that conclusion, however, if you MUST run a fuel filter, then the best place is BEFORE your fuel pump. That way, the filter will protect both the pump AND the carb. Then you can just buy a one piece fuel line from the pump to the carb or, use Lars' advice and make your own.
Remember, if the filter is fitted BEFORE the pump, then it will not be under any pressure. Filters fitted AFTER the pump will not only be under pressure, but will also be sitting a few inches from a HOT engine. In a worst case scenario, a leak here could be disastrous.
I'm glad you've come to that conclusion, however, if you MUST run a fuel filter, then the best place is BEFORE your fuel pump. That way, the filter will protect both the pump AND the carb. Then you can just buy a one piece fuel line from the pump to the carb or, use Lars' advice and make your own.
Remember, if the filter is fitted BEFORE the pump, then it will not be under any pressure. Filters fitted AFTER the pump will not only be under pressure, but will also be sitting a few inches from a HOT engine. In a worst case scenario, a leak here could be disastrous.
Good luck and send us some photos.
Regards from Down Under.
aussiejohn
Lars picture above and paper have the filter after the pump. Any carbed cars I have seen are after the pump, FI cars are generally after the in tank pump also?
Filters are always used after a pump, approx 40 microns for a carb and 10 microns for FI.
Strainers are always used before the pump, generally around 100 microns. Filters are too fine for suction use.
This is so that a pump is never starved, but still protected and the gas ends up being filtered properly before the carb or injectors.
It has a 3/8"NPT fitting, doesn't it? It would make things easier for you if you could find a fitting that would screw into the female 3/8" NPT on the Summit fuel line, and on the other side accept a 5/8" x 18 inverted flare. I'm not positive, but I think this fitting will do the trick. Can anybody verify?
ya it does. it also has a built in fuel filter so all I need is one line with fittings that screw in to each ends destination and Ill be all set!
Yep, Lars' paper demonstrates how to build a one-piece fuel from the pump to a Q-jet, so all you will have to do is follow those instructions, but with one less 90 degree bend, as you don't have to make the right-hand turn to get the line over to the front of a Q-jet. Use the male NPT/female inverted flare fitting, and you should have a nice, easy project. Remember to take into account where all of the stuff that's bolted onto the front of the engine will be. Another thing to think about is that it is nice to have the fuel line supported by some sort of mounting bracket somewhere around half way from the pump to the carb, to keep it from possibly rattling around. You could maybe use one of the intake manifold bolts for this.
holy cow... mine has a long 'hose' with an inline filter snaking along the top of the engine, wire tied in a couple places... ugh. Ok, that project just moved up to the top. Thanks
I've seen those fancy braided fuel lines spring a leak too. Problem is, the fuel might navigate it's way down thru the braid before it shows up. And it's a safe bet that it'll drip out at the worst possible place.
Lars picture above and paper have the filter after the pump. Any carbed cars I have seen are after the pump, FI cars are generally after the in tank pump also?
mako,
I agree with you, but I have met Lars at his home and have seen first hand the quality of his work. His fuel line WILL NOT leak! I can't speak about the skills of the OP and as I said, "IF you must run a filter..." Ideally, he should make sure the strainer in his fuel tank is good and rely on the stock Qjet filter and still run a one piece line from the pump to the carb. I'm not sure if it needs any bracing, GM didn't think so.
Filters are always used after a pump, approx 40 microns for a carb and 10 microns for FI.
Strainers are always used before the pump, generally around 100 microns. Filters are too fine for suction use.
This is so that a pump is never starved, but still protected and the gas ends up being filtered properly before the carb or injectors.
Yep,
For fuel injection, 100 microns before and 10 microns post pump.