Fiberglass ????
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From: Connecticut, USA
Fiberglass ????
As some of you know,I have to glass a new bottom in the battery box. This is something I want to do before puttingthe rear suspension and differential back in. This will be my first time working with glass and I'm hoping the temp will hit 70 by Friday. Will I be able to get 3 coats of mat on in a few hours or does it need to setup and harden over hours/days? what mixture would you recomend for temp around 65-70? And lastly anyone do this job with the body still on? I don't have much room where the box is near the frame, I might have to make a bracket up for the front of the box if I can't in there to grind and roll the glass.
Thanks,
Gary
Thanks,
Gary
Melting Slicks
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From: Casa Grande AZ
Re: Fiberglass ???? (gtr1999)
Hey Gary!
You can put the next layer of glass on as soon as the one before hardens. Depending on the resin you purchase that shouldn't take too long. Most stuff you get at an auto supply hardens well enough to apply the next layer in an hour or two. It probably won't fully cure in that time but adding the next layer won't hurt. Sometimes I'll build up all the layers I need in the correct shape on a piece of dacron. Then I'll apply the whole thing at once. You can't always do that but my point is that he thickness does not impede curing, as a matter of fact it appears thicker applications cure faster. You should definately sand lightly between layers unless your using laminating resin.
Mix it according to the can. they are all different it seems.
I did a u-joint failure hole with the car on. That was not difficult as it was very open. If you have to go all the way around and work above your head, it ain't gonna be fun!
Good luck!
You can put the next layer of glass on as soon as the one before hardens. Depending on the resin you purchase that shouldn't take too long. Most stuff you get at an auto supply hardens well enough to apply the next layer in an hour or two. It probably won't fully cure in that time but adding the next layer won't hurt. Sometimes I'll build up all the layers I need in the correct shape on a piece of dacron. Then I'll apply the whole thing at once. You can't always do that but my point is that he thickness does not impede curing, as a matter of fact it appears thicker applications cure faster. You should definately sand lightly between layers unless your using laminating resin.
Mix it according to the can. they are all different it seems.
I did a u-joint failure hole with the car on. That was not difficult as it was very open. If you have to go all the way around and work above your head, it ain't gonna be fun!
Good luck!
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Re: Fiberglass ???? (gtr1999)
I've never done a battery box, but glass is glass. If you are planning on a total of three layers of matt, you can easily complete the actual glass work in an hour. All three layers go on in the same mix. The trick will be to pre-saturate the matt before you hang it. I lay it out on (pre-cut) on a piece of aluminum foil and pre-soak it with resine using a throw-away paint brush. Doing a large area, pay close attention to how liquid your resine is, and be prepared to mix another batch as soon the first starts turning to jello.
Have fun.
Dave
Have fun.
Dave
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Re: Fiberglass ???? (gtr1999)
If you'ver never done it before . . . I suggest you spend 30 minutes and lay some up splicing two pieces of cardboard together in a simliar position. The stuff can get very messy fast. Wear latex gloves and a long sleeve shirt you don't care about. Old coffee cans work good for mixing up the resin. If you don't mix an excessive amount, you can keep using the same can as successive layers of resin will slowly fill the can allowing you to keep using thje same one. When mixing up multiple batches, I'll alternate two cans so the resin is solid in the bottom of the can before I mix another batch. Take your time and go slow, you'll get the hang of it quickly but your first batch will probably be a hard lesson, a lesson best learned on cardboard etc.
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From: Connecticut, USA
Re: Fiberglass ???? (74-Roadster)
Good advice and yes it's my first time working with 'glass. My son has been glassing the spare tire tub at school so he's the experienced one here :cheers:
Gary
Gary
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Re: Fiberglass ???? (gtr1999)
I started working on it last night when I got home. I have the bottom of the box cut out-most of it was gone anyway. The replacement box I cut about 3" from the bottom and it fits right over the existing box with a snug fit. It over laps about 2-3". Is it best to bond it like this or cut the boxes so that they form a butt splice? Would I still use the resin/mat to bond and overlap joint or go to a bonding adhesive?
Also I went to 3 parts stores and an auto paint supplier and they didn't have a 'glass roller? are these hard to find?
Thanks guys,
Gary
Also I went to 3 parts stores and an auto paint supplier and they didn't have a 'glass roller? are these hard to find?
Thanks guys,
Gary
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Re: Fiberglass ???? (gtr1999)
If you have a good lap fit, I would use panal adhesive to bond it and the go with the standard 3 layer matt and resin. As for the roller, I got mine through Ecklers. Since this IS the battery box and not the hood, you can get a similar effect (removal of air bubbles) by using a plastic squeegy while the resin is in the liquid to jello state.
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Re: Fiberglass ???? (Rolling Thunder)
I got both sides of the box ground tonight and taped the bottom in place until I can start with some resin and mat. Now how long does it take to get rid of the itching on my arms! I wore gloves and coveralls but the dust still in up my sleeves :( I think I'd rather rebuild rear bearings then glass.
Gary
Gary
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Safety Car
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From: Northeast South Dakota
Re: Fiberglass ????
Wear latex gloves and just say screw the fiberglass roller. Use your hand to smooth it and press it together. That's how I always did it and it always turns out good. Good advice to practice on some cardboard. Good luck.
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Re: Fiberglass ???? (Dalannex)
Dal,
I was wearing the gloves and I was able to get a roller form McMaster-Carr for $10 next day. I also ordered a bunch of cheap chip brushes and a tyvek overall so the next time I'll be better prepared!
Next question is there a good body filler I can get locally to blend in the exterior of the box? I don't know if "Bondo" makes a 'glass compatible filler and it's too late to get anything form Ecklers or Zip now,plus I don't need a gallon of it either.
Thanks,
Gary
I was wearing the gloves and I was able to get a roller form McMaster-Carr for $10 next day. I also ordered a bunch of cheap chip brushes and a tyvek overall so the next time I'll be better prepared!
Next question is there a good body filler I can get locally to blend in the exterior of the box? I don't know if "Bondo" makes a 'glass compatible filler and it's too late to get anything form Ecklers or Zip now,plus I don't need a gallon of it either.
Thanks,
Gary
Melting Slicks
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From: Casa Grande AZ
Re: Fiberglass ???? (gtr1999)
You can use 'marglas' to fill dips and smooth out the surface. Look for "Short Strand" polyester filler. It's got short strands of glass in it and locks to fiberglass better than bondo. It is harder to sand though.
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Re: Fiberglass ???? (lbell101)
Thanks Larry, I called a local supplier and they carry "dynaglass" which is supposed to be the same and they also have a 'glass panel type adhesive which they recommended for a body filler. So I'll drop by there and see what product it is.
Gary
Gary
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Re: Fiberglass ???? (gtr1999)
Thanks Larry, I called a local supplier and they carry "dynaglass" which is supposed to be the same and they also have a 'glass panel type adhesive which they recommended for a body filler. So I'll drop by there and see what product it is.
Gary
Gary
Are you taking pictures for us? I'm sure not too many of us will need to do the same project, but seeing your work will help motivate us all to get busy. :D
[Modified by 74-Roadster, 10:56 AM 5/24/2002]
Thread Starter
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From: Connecticut, USA
Re: Fiberglass ???? (74-Roadster)
Well I didn't take too many pictures of the glass work but do have pictures of the rest of the work I have done over the past month if you want. I have a scanner but not a digital camera.
Gary
Gary
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Re: Fiberglass ???? (A C)
Well tried the inner box 'glassing tonight. I mixed up about 9-10 oz of resin and added about 8 drops of hardner. I laid in 3 layers and got good saturation, but an hour later it was still wet! The temp was about 65* and dry. I had some resin left so I added another 5-6 drops of hardner an brushed it on. It looks good but I didn't bother to see if it hardens or not. I supported the bottom with a jack and 2x4 to keep it in place.
New Question: If it's still not hard by tomorrow then what? Can I mix up another barch and brush it on or do I have to scrap off the old stuff and reapply a new mixture. How much hardner does it take?
Thanks,
Gary
New Question: If it's still not hard by tomorrow then what? Can I mix up another barch and brush it on or do I have to scrap off the old stuff and reapply a new mixture. How much hardner does it take?
Thanks,
Gary
Melting Slicks
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From: Casa Grande AZ
Re: Fiberglass ???? (gtr1999)
I think it will be hard in the morning. Most of the time it will cure even if it's a little underhardened with a little extra time. If it doesn't cure, I'd take it off and do it again :(
If it makes you feel any better, I've sprayed an entire car with primer I've forgotten to harden at all. That creates a little extra work!
If it makes you feel any better, I've sprayed an entire car with primer I've forgotten to harden at all. That creates a little extra work!
Thread Starter
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From: Connecticut, USA
Re: Fiberglass ???? (lbell101)
Hi Larry,
I checked this mornign before going to work and a good deal of it had hardened. I'm going to scrap off the soff stuff and redo it when I get home. I reread the hardener packaging and the ratio is 30 drops per 4 oz of resin so I'll mix up 8 drops per oz and see how that sets up. I'm going to use a 4" electric grinder instaed of the 3" air grinder to clean up the exterior.
Thanks,
Gary
I checked this mornign before going to work and a good deal of it had hardened. I'm going to scrap off the soff stuff and redo it when I get home. I reread the hardener packaging and the ratio is 30 drops per 4 oz of resin so I'll mix up 8 drops per oz and see how that sets up. I'm going to use a 4" electric grinder instaed of the 3" air grinder to clean up the exterior.
Thanks,
Gary
