When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Do I need to heat these SOB's up or do I need a jack under them? I've been soaking for 2 days and I can't move these suckers still. They are the final hold up to me removing the diff cover.
In the process of rebuilding my rear-suspension. Have a date at VBandP tomorrow after work since I found I live one block away. Figured I'd do this while the gas tank was out.
I am guessing you are referring to the shock mount unit that doubles as the strut mount? I found it was easiest to remove the strut / shock mount as one piece and get it in a vice. There is a tool you can buy or make that threads onto the end to let you beat it out with a small sledge. The trick is beating it out without damaging the threads. New ones cost upwards of $60 each so being careful is beneficial to the project budget.
PS: I already removed the shock. But I was planning on getting new Adjustable Strut Rods from VBandP tomorrow when I pick up my composite spring and replacement sway bar since mine is cracked.
The back part of the shaft (farthest from the nut) has a spline on it, the front part has a flat across it (D shape shaft) so it needs to be driven straight back. Can't be turned at all
Plus it's likely bonded to the rubber/sleeve of the strut
A puller (preferably one that grabs onto the back arm of the spindle bracket so it's not trying to spread them)
They have a "removal tool" that you thread on and pound the crap out of with minimal damage to the thread, VB&P will sell it, kind of a blind nut type of an arrangement
(as clearly shown in the previous thread, sorry about that)
wedge a half washer in the right side space,in the photo,to prevent distortion or worse when puller pressure is applied.more force will be attained this way where you want it.
Or you can go to your local Home Depot or Lowes and get a 3/8 inch pipe cap. I saw that on the forum and it worked for me. Actually, I didn't even go to the store, I had one in my plumbing parts bin.
I took mine out last week. They werent fun. After soaking them, back the castle nut almost all the way off, leave it on for a few threads. Get a long bolt and put it in the "pocket" created by the castle part of the nut that is now created. Make sure it fills this area and comes in contact with the base of the threaded shock mount. This way it will stay trapped in that pocket, and will only make contact with the end of the shock mount, not any of the threads on the mount or the threads of the castle nut. Give it a few solid whacks with a small hand held sledge. It will go. I have had better luck this way than with the removal tool.
Thanks, I basically can't remove even the castle nut at this point. But good to know all the additional information. I'll tackle it again tomorrow after work.
Thanks, I basically can't remove even the castle nut at this point. But good to know all the additional information. I'll tackle it again tomorrow after work.
Leverage. Use a 6 point socket that fits tight. Use a ratchet and a long breaker bar or just a breaker bar and a socket. You can also try an impact socket and an impact wrench after a little heat.
That part hates everyone- even me. I pushed the trailing arm bolts out by hand- and they had not been removed in 40 years. But the shock mounts were a fight.
Do I need to heat these SOB's up or do I need a jack under them? I've been soaking for 2 days and I can't move these suckers still. They are the final hold up to me removing the diff cover.
In the process of rebuilding my rear-suspension. Have a date at VBandP tomorrow after work since I found I live one block away. Figured I'd do this while the gas tank was out.
PS: I meant Strut Rods, the rear's.
If you are taking the car over to VB for other work why not let them do it? Should not be a big deal to them. When I did mine it took awhile to find the right combination of four letter words to get one side off. I ended up cutting the strut end and peeling it off.
Heat is your friend. The rubber of the bushing will absorb shock and make efforts futile. Something else that'll help, is have a helper hold a equally big hammer on the shock side spindle mount to back it up while you hammer.
Thanks guys, hoping I can get this out this week! I'll have to post up some pictures real soon of all the work I'm doing bringing the car back up to spec.