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The two ears that the shock support go through are part of the spindle support casting. The first one I worked on, I broke the ear off the spindle support by trying to use a puller on the "nut side". The ear snapped right off... I still have that broken support as a reminder. The shock suppport can be easy to remove, or extremely difficult to remove. If the suspension is rusty, the shock support "rust welds" to the spindle support. That is what happened in my case. It took an oxy/acytelene torch and a big hammer to get mine off... both sides were rust welded. They had not devised the thread saving tools at that time... about 1976. So I mangled the threads on the shock support. Ended up buying a new spindle support and two new shock supports. It was an expensive lesson.
PS: I already removed the shock. But I was planning on getting new Adjustable Strut Rods from VBandP tomorrow when I pick up my composite spring and replacement sway bar since mine is cracked.
The problem on many of these cars is that there is a metal sleeve in the torque rod bushing that rust-welds itself onto the shock mount. When this happens it is just about impossible to get the shock mount out without destroying it. It really is worth the $ that the new mounts cost to avoid the time and aggravation that it takes to try to get the old mounts off intact. Not to mention the possibility of breaking the bearing carrier and costing even more $.
If they are extremely stubborn just SawZall them off and replace them. Believe me, the people who talk about getting them off easily are in the minority.
The problem on many of these cars is that there is a metal sleeve in the torque rod bushing that rust-welds itself onto the shock mount. When this happens it is just about impossible to get the shock mount out without destroying it. It really is worth the $ that the new mounts cost to avoid the time and aggravation that it takes to try to get the old mounts off intact. Not to mention the possibility of breaking the bearing carrier and costing even more $.
If they are extremely stubborn just SawZall them off and replace them. Believe me, the people who talk about getting them off easily are in the minority.
The problem on many of these cars is that there is a metal sleeve in the torque rod bushing that rust-welds itself onto the shock mount. When this happens it is just about impossible to get the shock mount out without destroying it. It really is worth the $ that the new mounts cost to avoid the time and aggravation that it takes to try to get the old mounts off intact. Not to mention the possibility of breaking the bearing carrier and costing even more $.
If they are extremely stubborn just SawZall them off and replace them. Believe me, the people who talk about getting them off easily are in the minority.
Rick B.
I used a cut off wheel as per Rodger's instructions
Thanks so much Roco71, made my day a lot easier. Started cutting with success. This should work! More parts arrived. Can't wait to post some progress photos of the new improvements and work done.
It took me a weekend to get mine off
penatrating oil....heat.....and a claw type puller
and a lot of patience...the patience saved the parts from bubba mania
I'm using a two spare jack stands to hold them up for now until I can reinstall everything. Going to clean it all and POR-15 some parts, along with the frame before the tank goes back in the car.
And a photo of the collection of the parts that I've got so far. Still waiting on a few more things. Got everything to put the tank back in this weekend, just want to finish cleaning and prepping the back side before putting her in.