Help with driveshaft installation, please?
This may be a silly question, but here I go:
Just fitted my new engine and transmission in to my car and now I need to fit the driveshaft, but I am unsure which way it goes in.
Before disassembly I have marked the driveshaft front and back, but did not mark which way it was connected (u-joints) to the transmission and differential.
As long as I connect the marked front of the driveshaft to the transmission and marked back of the driveshaft to the differential, does it matter which way I connect the ujoint to the transmission and differential yoke?
While I am at it I would like to replace and upgrade the original u-joints with some heavy duty ones to handle my new 500ft torque engine.
Which yokes would you recommend and how best to connect the driveshaft to minimize vibrations?
BTW my car is 1980 with 4-speed super T10 transmission
Thank you
Last edited by C3Paul; May 27, 2012 at 06:40 PM.


This may be a silly question, but here I go:
Just fitted my new engine and transmission in to my car and now I need to fit the driveshaft, but I am unsure which way it goes in.
Before disassembly I have marked the driveshaft front and back, but did not mark which way it was connected (u-joints) to the transmission and differential.
Does it matter which way I connected as long as I have the front and back correct?
While I am at it I would like to replace and upgrade the original u-joints with some heavy duty ones to handle my new 500ft torque engine.
Which yokes would you recommend and how best to connect the driveshaft to minimize vibrations?
BTW my car is 1980 with 4-speed super T10 transmission
Thank you
I have no idea what you mean by this, can you explain it a different way?
Keep the shiny side up!

Scott
For U-Joints, hard to beat the solid spicers
Mooser


Keep the shiny side up!

Scott
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Almost there.
The engine went in on Saturday with quit ease, but it took almost forever to install the transmission!
Despite of the fact that I have used an alignment tool to align the clutch discs with the pilot bearing I still straggled.
All connected now.
I am going to replace my u-joints and have the driveshaft balanced as well.
Now the small stuff:
Passenger header is touching steering idler arm
Need to fabricate fuel line with inline fuel filter
Still missing valve cover breathers
Have not a clue at all, where and what vacuum lines should be or where they go
Need to fabricate centre exhaust section to fit through my double hoop transmission crossmember.
Adjust clutch and shifter linkage
Carburettor installation kit and throttle linkage
I am sure there is still more to come





Almost there.
The engine went in on Saturday with quit ease, but it took almost forever to install the transmission!
Despite of the fact that I have used an alignment tool to align the clutch discs with the pilot bearing I still straggled.
All connected now.
I am going to replace my u-joints and have the driveshaft balanced as well.
Now the small stuff:
Passenger header is touching steering idler arm
Need to fabricate fuel line with inline fuel filter
Still missing valve cover breathers
Have not a clue at all, where and what vacuum lines should be or where they go
Need to fabricate centre exhaust section to fit through my double hoop transmission crossmember.
Adjust clutch and shifter linkage
Carburettor installation kit and throttle linkage
I am sure there is still more to come

You can find a vacuum line C-3 diagram online. Stock units "T" off the large 3/8th line going to the power brake vacuum canister.
Custom mod your crossmember to make it a cross under.
Clutch linkage, so you have an inch or so pedal movement before it actually starts to dissengage
the carb.............. use studs to mount it without gasket sealant


Some of the replies are making a lot more sense to me, now! I guess I'm the one who is a little slow on the uptake!

Keep the shiny side up!

Scott
Next question?
The driveshaft is not indexed
Found a driveshaft shop who are able to replace my u joints with new nongreaseble HD ones and can balance my driveshaft as well.
Is it worth having the driveshaft balanced with the new ujoints but without the yokes as they are still attached to the transmission and diff.
So all they will do is to ballance the driveshaft with new ujoints
Isn't this like balancing a crank without the flywheel and balancer?
Do it or not?
Last edited by C3Paul; May 29, 2012 at 03:38 AM.
Mooser
PS, 1/2 shafts could use it, and new u-joints "While your at it". Those U-joints see a lot more movement than the drive-shaft
How do I remove the yoke from my Super T10?
I hope I do not have to remove the transmission from the car in order to remove the yoke?!
BTW: I am not doing the 1/2 shafts before I burn some rubber and brake the 1/2 shafts

Been tooooo long
How do I remove the yoke from my Super T10?
I hope I do not have to remove the transmission from the car in order to remove the yoke?!
BTW: I am not doing the 1/2 shafts before I burn some rubber and brake the 1/2 shafts

Been tooooo long
Unbolt both ends of the driveshaft, push the yoke into the trans, drop the driveshaft out of the way. The yoke just slips out of the trans.
Last edited by MIKE80; May 29, 2012 at 10:52 AM.





Those super smooth tracks with big run offs would be fun to run the vette on














