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My EGR seems bad. With vacuum hooked up I can't get a steady idle.. I've read that the ports get clogged and using a shop vac and pipe cleaners I can rim them out. What about cleaning the EGR? Can I use brake cleaner or carb cleaner to help clean it up? Soak it? I could always spend the money on a new one but I'm guessing it's not the EGR that's bad I'm guessing is clogged on the intake.
Yup.. they sniffed my car twice this year.. After the first test the guy pulls my car towards the exit to allow the next car in while they change the sticker.. Seems they typed the wrong number in the computer or something like that.. I think it was just an excuse so the guy could drive my car around the building an in front of the line to test again. I couldn't see the guy but I was listening for squeeling tires.. He had a grin from ear to ear.. :)
I plan on cleaning/fixing it or replacing with new if I can't clean it. How careful do I have to be in sucking out all the little pieces from the intake ports? How far do those ports go.. ie. how long a pipe cleaner will I need?
The ports on my intake manifold were plugged solid. I removed the intake for other reasons and discovered all the carbon build up. The residue came out with a screwdriver and some tapping. Also had to use a coat hanger to get around the bends. It took about hour to clean the ports out. I don't believe you can clean the ports/passage ways out without removing the intake.
Roger
Do the heads have to come off to remove the intake. I've never removed either before.. just curious. I haven't figured out what I'm doing with this motor yet.. but I feel if I decided to pull the intake, putting it back on after cleaning the ports will most likely mean.. replacing with a newer/better intake.. and then new heads, cam..... oh no... :eek: I know it's comming.. Just wondering if anyone was lucky to clean the ports without removing the intake? Guess it all depends on how bad it's clogged up.
NO---The heads do not need to come off to remove the intake. If you can get flow by using the vacuum cleaner,pipe cleaner,persuader screwdriver, you will be OK.
You will more than likely need a new EGR gasket if you remove your EGR for cleaning. Make sure that it is good. Test it with a vac. tester. If the diaphram is shot, you'll need a new one. If it is OK, I have been able to clean the pintle and shaft with carb cleaner.
I pulled the EGR and while there seemed to be buildup in the intake it wasn't clogged solid.. I can only see about 1 1/2 inches into the intake and that didn't look clogged solid. How can I tell if it's clogged further in? Anyway, I compressed the EGR and put my finger over the hose connector and it held. :confused: I filled the plunger opening with carb cleaner until it came out the other oblong opening. After a minute or so.. (I have no patience. :) ) I took off my finger and it closed so I would think the EGR is good..
There was the EGR then a gasket then a spacer then another gasket. I put RTV between the layers.. none between EGR and intake.. hooked up the hose and she won't hold a steady rpm.. I sprayed around the base where it connects to the intake and no change in engine so I believe I have a good seal.. I'd like to get a better idea what else I could do before dumping $70 on another EGR.. I would prefer to fix this than just leave it disconnected.
So is the main failure of an EGR the loss of holding vacuum. If the intake is clogged further in it just wont circulate air but if the EGR is holding then why would it cause problems.. Any ideas out there?
On my '76 Mustang many years ago, when the EGR valve went bad I had a swinging idle speed. Replaced the EGR valve and all was well. The EGR may not seat and this allows the exhaust gas to enter the air/fuel mixture at idle when it is not suppose to. This condition can cause a lean mixture, because too much air is mixing with the fuel. If the EGR valve does not open at speed when it is suppose to a surging condition may occur because not enough air is mixing with the fuel.
To check if the internal passage is open I taped over the EGR valve opening and applied vacuum through the tape with my vacuum pump. If the passage is plugged you should hold a vacuum. I fthe passage is open then you should not be able to hold a vacuum. This will not tell you how opened the passages are.
If the EGR valve diaphragm is torn then engine vacuum will be loss due to the air flow coming thru the diaphragm. To check for the diaphragm just apply vacuum and see if the diaphragm moves and the vacuum stays steady.
Roger
Am I looking for trouble here? If it is clogged is the only way to clean this is to remove the intake? When I had the shop vac on it I was chipping away whatever crud I could and sucking up with the vac. I put the vac over the opening and the vac ran louder indicating it's not getting enough air. I wasn't sure how much air would flow through that port so I didn't give it much thought. I really didn't want to pull the intake cause I know it's going to cause more problems.. like buying a new one.. :D .. I just hate fixing one thing which could cause bigger problems somewhere else.. What would/could happen if a chip of carbon got into the intake? This looks like it could happen anytime given the tendancy to build up carbon here..