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Old May 29, 2012 | 12:44 PM
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Default Bleeding brakes

I have a '78 Vette and working on the brakes. On a Google search that explained bleeding brakes on a "77 it said to follow the squence RR, LR, RF and LF. I have the OEM 1978 Chevy Manual which shows that for all other Chevy models except the "Y" model or the Corvette which shows LR, RR, LF and RF. No mention of inner or outer sequence either.

They say always follow the book but I wonder why the sequence would be different?
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Old May 29, 2012 | 12:59 PM
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On the rear bleed the inner first then the outer.
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Old May 29, 2012 | 01:39 PM
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On the rear bleed the inner first then the outer.


Also, on any car, a good rule of thumb is to bleed the farthest wheel from the MC first, and work your way closer one wheel at a time. As long as you get all of the air out of the system, it shouldn't amount to a hill of beans anyway.
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Old May 29, 2012 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by petes74ttop
On the rear bleed the inner first then the outer.
Yes but the manual doesn't mention it at all.
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Old May 29, 2012 | 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Stoge


Also, on any car, a good rule of thumb is to bleed the farthest wheel from the MC first, and work your way closer one wheel at a time. As long as you get all of the air out of the system, it shouldn't amount to a hill of beans anyway.
So I've read but the manual states for all other 1978 models farthest first but not for the Corvette.

I'm pulling all the calipers and got to the front to find the rigid to flexible fitting at the frame(3/8") is rounded off from the factory! Can only get my flare nut wrench on it in one position too. Nuff for today.
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Old May 29, 2012 | 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by wptski

I'm pulling all the calipers and got to the front to find the rigid to flexible fitting at the frame(3/8") is rounded off from the factory!
I doubt that. What makes you think that in the last 34 years no one has ever worked on that caliper before?
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Old May 29, 2012 | 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by bashcraft
I doubt that. What makes you think that in the last 34 years no one has ever worked on that caliper before?
Because I'm the orginal owner! The brakes, other than removing the pads and putting some anti-squeak goop on them, they've never been touched. Only 13,692 miles on it and hadn't been driven since 2001.

As I remember, flip headlights had to be adjusted and threaded turn buckles looked like somebody used channel locks on the threads. It had lots of thin paint in areas and to be repaired.

Quality wasn't too good back then and paying 3K over list on top of that.

BTW: Other side was slightly rounded off but it came off with a cracking sound like the rears did with the wrench was stuck on it. I completely rounded off the one too. Both lines should be replaced.
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Old May 29, 2012 | 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by wptski
Because I'm the orginal owner! The brakes, other than removing the pads and putting some anti-squeak goop on them, they've never been touched. Only 13,692 miles on it and hadn't been driven since 2001.

As I remember, flip headlights had to be adjusted and threaded turn buckles looked like somebody used channel locks on the threads. It had lots of thin paint in areas and to be repaired.

Quality wasn't too good back then and paying 3K over list on top of that.

BTW: Other side was slightly rounded off but it came off with a cracking sound like the rears did with the wrench was stuck on it. I completely rounded off the one too. Both lines should be replaced.
Well then I guess you should know then.

So you're saying these are the original caliper that have never been rebuilt and they don't leak?
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Old May 29, 2012 | 03:09 PM
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There does tend to be a debate on the proper order for bleeding.
If I were you, I would bench bleed the Master Cylinder, then follow the sequence in the manual. Since they don't differentiate between inner and outer, follow convention and do the inner first then the outer.
You should be able to tell pretty quick if it worked. If it doesn't, then try whatever sequence your would like. All it costs is a little time and a bottle of fluid.
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Old May 29, 2012 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by wptski
I have a '78 Vette and working on the brakes. On a Google search that explained bleeding brakes on a "77 it said to follow the squence RR, LR, RF and LF. I have the OEM 1978 Chevy Manual which shows that for all other Chevy models except the "Y" model or the Corvette which shows LR, RR, LF and RF. No mention of inner or outer sequence either.

They say always follow the book but I wonder why the sequence would be different?
The sequence doesn't matter, see post #3
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...fo-please.html

While your ordering the hard lines you might want to get new rubber lines also.

Those original caliper are not sleeved, are you trying to keep everything original?
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Old May 29, 2012 | 04:22 PM
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Get some speed bleeders while your at it. A whole lot easier to bleed'm than the old fashion way!
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Old May 29, 2012 | 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by bashcraft
Well then I guess you should know then.

So you're saying these are the original caliper that have never been rebuilt and they don't leak?
I didn't add that it hadn't been started since 2001 either! One squirt of Quick Start, about 5 seconds of cranking and started right up. I was going to try the tranny when the brake pedal with all the way to the floor. No brake fluid in the fill tank, checked underside, RF tire a bit wet and LR was soaked.

Is there a source for parts like brake lines? I have to look into nipping of the end and reflaring.
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Old May 29, 2012 | 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by wptski
I have a '78 Vette and working on the brakes. On a Google search that explained bleeding brakes on a "77 it said to follow the squence RR, LR, RF and LF. I have the OEM 1978 Chevy Manual which shows that for all other Chevy models except the "Y" model or the Corvette which shows LR, RR, LF and RF. No mention of inner or outer sequence either.

They say always follow the book but I wonder why the sequence would be different?
I think the reason there's a difference between corvettes and all other chevys is because at that time, no other chevys had four wheel disc brakes. My 81 manual says left rear inner first, then outer, right rear inner, then outer, the left front and right front. I think the rear bleeding sequence is to limit the chances of any air pockets moving from the inner to the outer during bleeding as the outer is the end of the line. Maybe if you did the outside first, there's a chance some air that was in the inner could move to the outer side and if you'd already bled that, the air would still be there. But just a guess....
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Old May 29, 2012 | 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by wptski
I didn't add that it hadn't been started since 2001 either! One squirt of Quick Start, about 5 seconds of cranking and started right up. I was going to try the tranny when the brake pedal with all the way to the floor. No brake fluid in the fill tank, checked underside, RF tire a bit wet and LR was soaked.

Is there a source for parts like brake lines? I have to look into nipping of the end and reflaring.
Any of the typical vendors have any of the parts you might need. Wilcox has a very good reputation, though I've not used them yet, I've used VanSteel and been very happy with their stuff and service.
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Old May 29, 2012 | 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by petes74ttop
The sequence doesn't matter, see post #3
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...fo-please.html

While your ordering the hard lines you might want to get new rubber lines also.

Those original caliper are not sleeved, are you trying to keep everything original?
Not trying to keep it stock. Yes, I was thinking about replacing the flexible line also. I had fuel leak early on and line looked like it wasn't fuel line material.

Last edited by wptski; May 29, 2012 at 10:57 PM.
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 09:25 AM
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Removing the front steel brake lines now, loose up to the distribution block.

Just wondering if I'm going to be able to remove the cross-over line from the right side without removing something in my way??????

Anybody else ever replace that line?
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