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Thanks again for all the info guys.
Funding is the only thing slowing me down at the moment (apart from my blown engine) this couldn't have come at a more inopportune time.
I'll pull the engine next week and get an idea of what needs to be done + a lot of photos, so I can borrow your insights as well
Funding is the only thing slowing me down at the moment
Story of my life. I think the fact that two of us(who don't know one an other) recommended the same engine says something about how we feel about the GM crate motors.(why do we call them motors, there engines..) I just put one in my truck.
You got a lot of good advice already from the guys on this forum keep asking them for direction. Best wishes.
I've been watching, first comment....
You might have good heads if pistons did not contact the valves. That's all that's worth saving unless you have a great deal of skill, knowledge, and time to fix stuff. Otherwise, just go with a used motor (SBCs are VERY cheap, you can get 10 for the price of a crate motor) and will get you on the road, or crate motor if you have some extra cash.
Do NOT try to build a performance motor out of old blowed up parts.
Thanks Scotty for bringing me back down to earth, sometimes I have to take a step back and remember that the OP sometimes doesn't have the vast knowledge about C3's that I may have and I should make things simpler for them. How about just patching the pan with some bondo, a little sanding and paint and your good to go.. Once again my disclaimer, "I'm just kidding" Good Luck on getting her back on the rode...Tim
Originally Posted by scottyp99
Don't listen to Tim81, he overthinks everything. Him and his fancy-pants JB Weld.....we are not all rich like you, Tim!!! All you really need to do is stick some bubble gum in the hole!
Obviously, I'm just joking around with Tim, but seriously, if you want to be a hotrodder, blowing up the occasional engine is sometimes just the cost of doing business, if ya know what I mean. Hopefully, the rest of your engine can be salvaged, and you can get running again for a couple grand, maybe less, if you have some buds who know what they are doing, and will work for beer. An engine swap always attracts people who just want to take part in the adventure. (even if it's just to watch and drink some beer.) Just remember: Lefty loosey, righty tighty! You'll need an engine hoist, an engine stand, some tools, and a place to do it. Harbor Frieght is a good place to find cheap tools, they were just advertizing a small engine hoist for about 100 bucks not too long ago. Here are a few links to help you see what you are getting yourself into. Good luck, and keep us posted!
Out of concern and sympathy for my fellow CF member, I've consulted my trusted crystal ball.
After a gentle shake, I let the white stuff settle and can now see something. Yes it's all clear to me now...'75, your car has been through an interesting life. A variaty of colorful characters have been behind the wheel and in the right seat too.... ooo you might want to give that right seat a nice cleaning.
But that's not what we're looking for today. The engine, yes I can see the engine. Many colorful characters have worked on the engine. I can see one of them may have been the cause of your current dilemma. Yes, I see a bit of the future too! Many colorful characters will be involved in the diagnosis and repair of this engine.
To confirm this, I have consulted my ever insightful, always correct Magic Eight Ball. "Is this the answer we are loookinggg forrrr?" After at good shake, the Eight Ball tells us "The outlook is not so good".
I think your crystal ball is broken... '75 didn't make the original post.
I've been watching, first comment....
You might have good heads if pistons did not contact the valves. That's all that's worth saving unless you have a great deal of skill, knowledge, and time to fix stuff. Otherwise, just go with a used motor (SBCs are VERY cheap, you can get 10 for the price of a crate motor) and will get you on the road, or crate motor if you have some extra cash.
Do NOT try to build a performance motor out of old blowed up parts.
If you can find a good used engine that is in decent shape, it would definitely be an option. Drive it around with the used engine for awhile, while you save up for a new one. If you can find an engine in good enough shape, you might not even bother with a new engine, who knows? here's an old Car Craft article with a few tips on buying a used engine.
Ya, I'd search around and see what you can find. Dad picked up a 350 for his '78 that looked like it had just been rebuilt complete except carb, distributor and accessories for $800.
Otherwise, I'm kind of partial to factory roller cam engines for lower to midrange HP builds.
I might be dreaming, but it seems to me that the roller cams get you a wider torque curve and make a much nicer street cruising engine. Unless I'm missing something, you could throw a bit more cam into it and have a very nice street engine. Should be easy to hit 350hp with a cam change since versions of this engine came in the trucks rated around 350hp.
Change the p/n from 2 to a 3 on the end and you get a 4-bolt version for $100 more.
Can anyone give me an idea of what needs to be replaced (apart from the oil pan)? I'm just now beginning my research.
Really can't assess that until its pulled and disassembled. If you were lucky the broke rod just trashed the oil pan. The block may be OK but you need to get it magnafluxed if you really want to retain the block. youll need a new rotating assembly for sure. If the piston hit the open valves then you may have trashed a head or two.
If your not concerned about matching No's then just scrap it and get a crate motor.
Ya, I'd search around and see what you can find. Dad picked up a 350 for his '78 that looked like it had just been rebuilt complete except carb, distributor and accessories for $800.
Otherwise, I'm kind of partial to factory roller cam engines for lower to midrange HP builds.
I might be dreaming, but it seems to me that the roller cams get you a wider torque curve and make a much nicer street cruising engine. Unless I'm missing something, you could throw a bit more cam into it and have a very nice street engine. Should be easy to hit 350hp with a cam change since versions of this engine came in the trucks rated around 350hp.
Change the p/n from 2 to a 3 on the end and you get a 4-bolt version for $100 more.
Good choice. Cam upgrade and your good to go. Factory lift is 414/428 for a reason. Lift is limited on the heads. +.050 valve locks are available and you will want a spring upgrade as well as the factory springs are #80 on the seat.
Good choice. Cam upgrade and your good to go. Factory lift is 414/428 for a reason. Lift is limited on the heads. +.050 valve locks are available and you will want a spring upgrade as well as the factory springs are #80 on the seat.
Actually, I should have posted that it'd work good as is for now with nice upgrade possibilities in the future. I'd think that engine is capable of around 250hp as is. The typical maximum number for Vortec heads is 0.475" so those retainers would get to 0.525" lift and possibly more if checked or if the guides are cut down. A roller cam with around 0.5" lift would be a nice upgrade.
That last engine listed above id the same one I just put in my 96 Tahoe. It's a nice engine. I still like the engine I listed for the drop in replacement. He does have LOTS of options.
Actually, I should have posted that it'd work good as is for now with nice upgrade possibilities in the future. I'd think that engine is capable of around 250hp as is. The typical maximum number for Vortec heads is 0.475" so those retainers would get to 0.525" lift and possibly more if checked or if the guides are cut down. A roller cam with around 0.5" lift would be a nice upgrade.
Vortec heads will lift to about .470 before the retainer contacts the seal. I would like to see a minimum clearance at this point of about .060 even though many builds are done with these heads that don't take this clearance into account. I would use them on any cam upgrade. If the spring intall height is to tall then shim to recommended height.