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I have a 6" diameter water pump pulley and a 6 3\4 " crank pulley. Its seems that the water pump is going fast enough, what size pulley would make it turn faster, smaller diameter or larger? At idle my electric fans are on all of the time. Its gets better when on the road, but as soon as I get to a stop sign, there on again. :confused:
A smaller upper pulley or a larger crank pulley will make the water pump spin faster. Usually you will want the water pump to turn between 70/80% of crank speed. You already have it going faster than crank speed (112%). At high rpm that has the water pump spinning pretty fast.
You did not say what pump you have. If you have a stock, there are high flow pumps that might help. If you have the high flow I would look at other areas.
Thanks Pete, another question, I am using a shaw thermostat, 160 degree, I know the big block is going to run hoter than the small block, thats why I figured it would be better to run the pump faster? It gets back to old question of having the water changing faster from the radiator to the block, or slowing it down to spend more time in the radiator to cool down. Any comments on this?
My experience is that by having some kind of restiction to the radiator inlet (themostat, gutted thermostat, restrictor washer) helps cool the motor. By having a restriction you will build more pressure in the block than in the radiator. That helps force water to any localized hot spots (around the exhaust valves) in the motor and helps to reduce detonation.
Correct me if I am wrong, but I am assuming that you have only electric fans. If that is the case then they will come on when you are running slow as you do not have as much air flow across the radiator.
Are you overheating going slow or are you just concerned that the fans come on?
Pete, I have twin spal fans, and a Stewart stage one water pump. The motor is not running too hot, I don't think so anyway. My fans come on at 195 and turn off at 180. I guess I am just wanting to make sure its the right combo.
It sounds like you have all the right pieces. I think what I would do is to get a good mechanical water temp gauge and mount it temperarily to verify the fan sensor and your dash gauge. That way you will know that everything is turning on and off at the right temps. I have never had a street big block but I would think that a Hi-Po big block running around 200° in town would be about normal. Maybe someone with a similar setup will chime in and let us know.
It gets back to old question of having the water changing faster from the radiator to the block, or slowing it down to spend more time in the radiator to cool down. Any comments on this?
The physics of thermodynamics indicates that faster flows will increase cooling. The reason is that heat transfer occurs faster when the two temperatures are the most different. Thus, as coolant sits and heats up bringing the temps of the coolant and engine closer to each other, then the heat transfer slows down. In other words since the goal is to transfer heat from the engine into the coolant, then higher flows will get the job done more efficiently. For this reason I do not run a thermostat.
I always thought you should run the pump faster then the crank speed by 30 percent. I installed a smaller pulley on the pump to acheive this 30% increase. My big block with dual electric fans runs below 200 almost anytime. Stop and go traffic will put it up to 200 on a warm day.
I second Pete's suggestion. Verify that your gauge is correct before proceeding with changes. You might consider using one of those laser gun temp sensors by pointing it at the thermostat housing, radiator etc.
. . .I think what I would do is to get a good mechanical water temp gauge and mount it temperarily to verify the fan sensor and your dash gauge. . .
Norval I am curious what kind of water pump are you running with your beast?
To low of water temperatures are bad for cylinder wear, I can't imagine why anyone would run no stat/restricted on a street car! At the least it will prolong the warm up and at the best it's a bandaid for an inadequate or broken cooling system!
I definitely believe in thermostats. I try to run my engine around 190-195. I have the second electric fan switch controlled and only use it if the temp goes to 200. I have a 3 inch aluminium rad and edelbrock aluminum water pump run 30 percent overdrive. I believe in the cylinder wear thing with cold engines and also believe if you run them rich rapid cylinder wear also results.
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