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when I see they are cutting and pasting without any actual knowledge, I put them on my ignore list. There's probably 50 different ways to adjust valves, all of them are correct and work, all of us have our favorites that have worked for us for years...and years. The engine running method used to be the norm. but with later advances in tech. is now pretty much used for minor valve train issues (example; a lifter that doesnt pump up quite as much as the others). There are no absolutes in auto repair and rebuilding. Lifters...and other parts, may be machined within 'specs' but different enough to reguire a little more or less 'adjustment. What works one time on one engine , wont work the next time on an identically machined engine. Thats why there's 'adjustments'. It will save you time and money, knowing the 'running engine' adjustment. It is an excellent and very accurate method of adjusting lifters. . You more inexperienced members, don't let someone tell you there are absolutes, or that you 'have ' to do it one way. There are several 'ways, and there are not any absolutes.. Ask your questions , make up your own minds. hope this helps...btw, when they prerun the engines either at the factory or rebuilder, and there is a ticking from one of the lifters, they pull the covers and adjust it/them with the engine running, if it can be 'fixed' with a minor adjustment , the engine gets delivered
Last edited by oldalaskaman; Jun 9, 2012 at 08:01 PM.
There are no absolutes in auto repair and rebuilding. Lifters...and other parts, may be machined within 'specs' but different enough to reguire a little more or less 'adjustment. What works one time on one engine , wont work the next time on an identically machined engine. Thats why there's 'adjustments'. It will save you time and money, knowing the 'running engine' adjustment. It is an excellent and very accurate method of adjusting lifters. . You more inexperienced members, don't let someone tell you there are absolutes, or that you 'have ' to do it one way. There are several 'ways, and there are not any absolutes..
If someone wants to sit in their driveway with cut-off valve covers and clips getting oil all over the car, themselves and their driveway - they should go for it. They should go to their local speed shop or engine builder and see who's doing that way...good luck finding someone.
And they should just realize there's a very quick and simple way - as outlined in the factory service manual and as used by experienced mechanics and engine builders everywhere - that works every time, on every engine, perfectly.
The only way to "fine tune" preload in terms of seeing it's impact on power or RPM range is on the engine or chassis dyno...it can't be done by ear or by guess. A lifter that isn't returning to the top of it's travel is broken, not something to be compensated for.
Adjusting hydraulic lifter preload isn't the black art it's being positioned as by some - it's very simple mechanic work, that good mechanics know how to do...or learn how to do...especially if they want to work on performance vehicles. I would suggest emailing Lars for his excellent paper on this...which does not contain a reference anywhere to doing it running.
There are no absolutes in auto repair and rebuilding. Lifters...and other parts, may be machined within 'specs' but different enough to reguire a little more or less 'adjustment. What works one time on one engine , wont work the next time on an identically machined engine. Thats why there's 'adjustments'. It will save you time and money, knowing the 'running engine' adjustment. It is an excellent and very accurate method of adjusting lifters. . You more inexperienced members, don't let someone tell you there are absolutes, or that you 'have ' to do it one way. There are several 'ways, and there are not any absolutes..
The only way to "fine tune" preload in terms of seeing it's impact on power or RPM range is on the engine or chassis dyno...it can't be done by ear or by guess. A lifter that isn't returning to the top of it's travel is broken, not something to be compensated for.
I've only done it running once (mostly just to see how it was done while I had some expertise watching over me), and I used the RPM function of my timing light. It was interesting to see. That said, engine off was much easier!
Lots of good comments on my inquiry.
Thanks to all... especially to Oldalaskaman, i did as he suggested and had great results!
I did the adjustment today with the tabs and the cut out rocker covers.
Not only did i get not one drop of oil on my Hooker headers, but i found the noisy rocker, (the nut backed off somehow) i changed out the rocker and the nut all is good again.
Cheers,
007.
Last edited by pewter99; Jun 10, 2012 at 09:03 AM.
Reason: hostility
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