#4 body mount any tips?

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Jun 12, 2012 | 08:58 PM

blkc3

Thread Starter

Heel & Toe

Joined: Jan 2012

Posts: 19

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#4 body mount any tips?

Hey there, I need to replace a #4 body mount - rear passenger side. I have the replacement mount have a few different size rivets. Now I am not sure how to proceed. 2 questions.
Question 1 - how do you get the factory style rivets to "flare out" like original, is there a special tool?

Question # 2- Any technique for getting the back side rivets installed without tearing anything up? Thanks,

Jun 12, 2012 | 10:21 PM

Mooser

Race Director

Joined: Apr 2011

Posts: 11,183

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From: North of Toronto - Ontario

There is a rivet setting tool that simulates how they were sort-of done on the line.

There is no real way of getting to the back set of rivets. The mount was installed prior to the body drop so the back shield on the wheel-well wasn't there. Part way down there is a picture of it on the line
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...the-forum.html

Here's a thread I had going awhile back, ended up cutting the back lip off
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...oval-tool.html

HIH
Mooser

Jun 12, 2012 | 11:24 PM

rogman16

Drifting

Joined: Aug 2003

Posts: 1,868

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From: Mascoutah IL

Agree with Brett's comments... I used a combination of aluminum rivets and Hiloks... Not going to win any NCRS events, but guarantee these mounts aren't going anywhere... Here's my link:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...post1579989739

Rogman

Jun 12, 2012 | 11:31 PM

Mooser

Race Director

Joined: Apr 2011

Posts: 11,183

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From: North of Toronto - Ontario

Quote:

Originally Posted by rogman16

Damn you convertible guys and all your access to the top of the #4 mount!

BTW, aerospace has all kinds of neat toys but hi-loks are pretty sweet
Mooser

Jun 13, 2012 | 01:26 AM

mapman

Melting Slicks

Joined: Aug 2001

Posts: 3,050

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From: Wichita KS

Quote:

Originally Posted by blkc3

Q1 - I used SS screws they are at least as strong as the original aluminum rivets. (With SS lock nuts and large SS washers to distribute the load against the fiberglass) I have the aluminum rivets but installation is a two person job - one person to hold the rivet gun and another person to hold the bucking bar. Seemed like too much of a marriage test at the time, so I went with the SS.

Q2 - I installed fasteners at all the locations. (I had to do a little bending and tweeking to get the new mount holes lined up with the old rivet holes.) For the #4 rear fastener, I got the body mount into place and then I ran a long thin drill bit from the inside through the hole in the mount and through the rear fiberglass (where the body section covers the rear of the #4 mount. With the small hole as a locator point, I used a larger (wood bit) to cut a hole in the fiberglass just slightly larger than the head of the screw. This made for easy access to the rear of the mount. I'll probably glass the hole over before I'm finished. Picture below:

Jun 13, 2012 | 01:37 AM

dariopop

Racer

Joined: Oct 2004

Posts: 281

Likes: 9

From: New England

You can go to my album and take a look at how I attached mine, worked for me, after undercoating you can't tell it was not riveted. Much easier to do it this way. I used SS hardware. Good luck

Last edited by dariopop; Jun 13, 2012 at 01:39 AM.

Jun 13, 2012 | 01:44 PM

hugie82

Safety Car

Joined: Mar 2007

Posts: 3,652

Likes: 49

From: Bridgewater nj

I used the big 1/4 stainless steel ones they use for the window regulator. I picked them up from the local GM dealer. If your not worried about the look just used a nut and bolts.