Cold, hard starts
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 41
From: Raleigh NC
St. Jude Donor '13-'14
Cold, hard starts
Its summer time now, starting and idle should not be this hard when its this warm. I have to spend five minutes or so warming the engine up before it'll idle on its own. I also have a very rich idle. Once running, the car idles very well and pulls strong.
I have cranked in the idle mixture screws as low as I can go and still idle (after I've warmed it up). Its still very rich.
The carb is a 4165 atop a stock L46 motor with transistorized ignition.
Any trouble shooting tips/solutions are greatly appreciated.
Peter
I have cranked in the idle mixture screws as low as I can go and still idle (after I've warmed it up). Its still very rich.
The carb is a 4165 atop a stock L46 motor with transistorized ignition.
Any trouble shooting tips/solutions are greatly appreciated.
Peter
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 41
From: Raleigh NC
St. Jude Donor '13-'14
I am also using a thermostatic divorced choke on the 4165. Bubba did a decent job of rigging this up before I purchased the car as its gapped properly and properly opens as the car heats up.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,200
Likes: 3
From: Lehigh county Pennsylvania
Here's my tip...throw that choke away and wire open the flapper in the primary air horn. Problem solved.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 41
From: Raleigh NC
St. Jude Donor '13-'14
Interesting. I would see how that would help my rich condition a bit, but, my logic tells me it would have an even tougher time idling when cold (maybe my logic is backwards). Or am I just getting just too much gas with my choke closed? I could tweak it so its more open when cold.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 18,695
Likes: 2,572
Check if you have a blown power valve, if the mixture screws can be turned all the way clockwise till they stop and the engine doesnt stall, the valve/s are blown. You also could have too high a float level which requires disassembly on this type of carb. Have you checked your ignition timing? Do you have you vacuum advance hooked up?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,023
Likes: 6
From: Austin Tx
First guess would be the vacuum pulloff, or the vacuum source to the pulloff.
Also, any chance the intake gasket was replaced, and the crossover ports blocked? If that's the case, you can get an electric divorced choke.
Other than that, maybe the divorced choke coil, either it's damaged, or the wrong one.
Basically this is saying that either the pulloff is too weak, and not pulling the choke off soon enough, or the choke coil is too strong, and not letting the pulloff pull the choke off soon enough.
Also, any chance the intake gasket was replaced, and the crossover ports blocked? If that's the case, you can get an electric divorced choke.
Other than that, maybe the divorced choke coil, either it's damaged, or the wrong one.
Basically this is saying that either the pulloff is too weak, and not pulling the choke off soon enough, or the choke coil is too strong, and not letting the pulloff pull the choke off soon enough.
Last edited by Mashman; Jun 15, 2012 at 12:32 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 41
From: Raleigh NC
St. Jude Donor '13-'14
Check if you have a blown power valve, if the mixture screws can be turned all the way clockwise till they stop and the engine doesnt stall, the valve/s are blown. You also could have too high a float level which requires disassembly on this type of carb. Have you checked your ignition timing? Do you have you vacuum advance hooked up?
Vacuum advance is hooked up. I have not checked the timing. I felt that once the car is warmed up and it idles very nicely, plus pulls strong at WOT, this is not a timing issue.
