Schneider cam kit
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
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Schneider cam kit
The prev. owner of my 76 installed this and was very proud of it...but, the lifters bleed down if it sits for more than few hours, (checked the adjustment) and It sounds like a sewing machine when running. Ive done the research and saw the cams folks 'didnt' like or had issues with, but not bleeding down and not sounding like a sewing machine, isnt part of any of the cam makers ads. I was wondering if some of you members were running cams that you havent had any issues with and would recommend. I have it apart doing the front suspension , A/C, etc,etc...and now would be a good time to swap. My goals are low end torque , and no noise. many thanks for any and all suggestions, respectfully, bob
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From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
My thought also, wonder if your motor may have their version of them. Number of companies had something like that when they were the rage.
They worked but made noise. Know Comps "race" type hyd lifters were noisy, too used them. Wish I could recall the actual name. Could he have mixed and matched brands meaning Schneider cam and another brand lifters? Bleeding down is common once its shut down doesnt mean all of them will though
They worked but made noise. Know Comps "race" type hyd lifters were noisy, too used them. Wish I could recall the actual name. Could he have mixed and matched brands meaning Schneider cam and another brand lifters? Bleeding down is common once its shut down doesnt mean all of them will though
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: melbourne florida
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
sure you can mix brands, i used crower lifters on racer brown cams and GM and lunati all the time years ago. any aftermarket lifter was better than factory back then.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
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From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Let's talk some H-flat lifter facts.
First of all: all flat lifters have a bleed down rate determined by the internal spring rate and diameter of the orifices
Second: Depending on where the lifter is positioned in the lifter bore and the amount of lifter bore to lifter body clearance determines how long an individual lifter takes to bleed down when the motor is shut off. You can also add in heat and oil weight
So the so call Rhoads lifters, Crane Hi-intensity which I ran for many years and other clones had bigger internal springs and holes to bleed off faster at lower oil pressure to cause a variable duration and lift.
The idea in perfectly controled conditions is a great idea. But the key to make any h-flat lifter to work is correct oil weight and oil pressure to achive a pumped up lifter at some point above idle speed.
If you have 5W-20 oil on a hot day and your oil pressure is 10 psi at idle and 25 psi revved up of course it is going to sound like a sewing machine because you never achieve "ZERO" valve lash.
So before I would suspect lifter odd ball failure I would rule out what is the present oil pressure and weight. I used to work on stock motors and the lifter failures i saw were caused by no oil changes and 150K miles and sludge had turned the lifters into solids
First of all: all flat lifters have a bleed down rate determined by the internal spring rate and diameter of the orifices
Second: Depending on where the lifter is positioned in the lifter bore and the amount of lifter bore to lifter body clearance determines how long an individual lifter takes to bleed down when the motor is shut off. You can also add in heat and oil weight
So the so call Rhoads lifters, Crane Hi-intensity which I ran for many years and other clones had bigger internal springs and holes to bleed off faster at lower oil pressure to cause a variable duration and lift.
The idea in perfectly controled conditions is a great idea. But the key to make any h-flat lifter to work is correct oil weight and oil pressure to achive a pumped up lifter at some point above idle speed.
If you have 5W-20 oil on a hot day and your oil pressure is 10 psi at idle and 25 psi revved up of course it is going to sound like a sewing machine because you never achieve "ZERO" valve lash.
So before I would suspect lifter odd ball failure I would rule out what is the present oil pressure and weight. I used to work on stock motors and the lifter failures i saw were caused by no oil changes and 150K miles and sludge had turned the lifters into solids
Last edited by gkull; Jun 20, 2012 at 03:23 PM.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
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many thanks for all the replies, I gave Schneider cams a call and found out that the max turn down after zero lash was 1/4 turn, no more, no less. I was running a full 1/2, guess the po was too. Reset them and got rid of the bleed down. Mr. Schneider also stated that the sewing machine sound was common with their cams and others. All of my oiling system is new, new pump, new shaft , new rods and mains, new cam bearings when they installed the cam kit. Z28 pump spring, runs 55lbs at idle and too much oil pressure any higher than that. I know, I know ,not accepted practice any more, but I've done it for over 40 years and I like it. I think I'll run this one for awhile, it has a nice non-thumper idle and makes good power, and...and...I can spend that extra couple hunert bucks on something else.....like beer. Again many thanks, respectfully, bob
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Joined: Apr 1999
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From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Smart people use the oil weight to adjust oil pressure on new machines with tight clearances.
If you have 55# at idle hot you are going right into bypass mode within a couple thousand rpm. Bypass is just what it sayes. Pumped from the bottom of the pan and bypassing the filter right back into the pan.
I run Non bypass and the Wix or K&N high pressure filters and adjust my max pressure with oil weight.
So if you are having 55# at idle with something like 10W-40 drop it to 10W-30 on the next oil change. The if that is still over 40 or something go to 5W-30 .............
Ideal really is something 25-30 at idle and max out just below the bypass.
You are an old guy to remember to use a Z-28 pump
way back in the 70's we used to blue print them and polish all the gears and channels. Larger polished channels turned it into a higher volume pump and decreased the pressure.
Are you anywhere near Soldatna?
If you have 55# at idle hot you are going right into bypass mode within a couple thousand rpm. Bypass is just what it sayes. Pumped from the bottom of the pan and bypassing the filter right back into the pan.
I run Non bypass and the Wix or K&N high pressure filters and adjust my max pressure with oil weight.
So if you are having 55# at idle with something like 10W-40 drop it to 10W-30 on the next oil change. The if that is still over 40 or something go to 5W-30 .............
Ideal really is something 25-30 at idle and max out just below the bypass.
You are an old guy to remember to use a Z-28 pump
way back in the 70's we used to blue print them and polish all the gears and channels. Larger polished channels turned it into a higher volume pump and decreased the pressure.Are you anywhere near Soldatna?
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Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
I really would get the pressure down though
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
I like big down riggers and cannon ball sized weights.
I had to buy a chest freezer for the 1/2 ton of all the fish I would bring home
I learned that when the client is all over you, checking your work, and asking too many questions when you are fixing something. The loose pants, purposely pull them down, and start showing some butt crack they tend to not hang around long!
Last edited by gkull; Jun 21, 2012 at 06:16 AM.