I may look at a 72 LT-1 today. Other than the hood and valve covers, how can I be sure it's the real deal? :cheers:

 

Look for an original rear sway bar.

 

You are in luck..... the vin!! :) 70, 71 can be very tricky - I'm sure there are lots of fakes around, but starting in 72 the vin identifies the engine option. I can look it up if you need it. Only issue to "fake" in a 72 is if it has factory A/C. Very rare option, so I guess there are some real 72 LT1 cars out there that had A/C added to look like factory. MJ

 

I think the LT-1's had a red line of 5800, the hi-rise LT-1 manifold, no return line from the fuel pump and transistorized ignition amoung other visible differences.

 

There should be only one fuel line on the frame rail (no vapor return line). Check back at the fuel tank to make sure it is consistent all the way to the tank.

Just so you're not looking for something that doesn't exist....As far as I know the only LT-1 to come with a stock rear sway bar was the ZR-1 Option. My Lt-1 is very much original and doesn't have factory rear sway bar. I maybe wrong, but I'm sure others will check in on this.

 

MJ's got it...

1972 is probably the easiest LT-1 to identify due to the fact the engine originally installed in the car is coded to the VIN. If the fifth character in the VIN is an "L", then you probably have found an LT-1. Of course, enterprising counterfeiters have been known to swap VIN tags... Check the frame for the VIN derivative if it is possible.

The LT-1 bulged hood should be pretty obvious when you see the car.

The engine itself has some pretty unique parts... Carburetor, intake manifold, air cleaner, valve covers, etc. Check the numbers. If you can't identify a restamped engine, find someone who can. You're going to be paying a premium for an LT-1 over a base engine car (or even a big block in some cases)... Make certain you get what you pay for.

The single fuel line is also a good indicator as well.

LT-1s without air conditioning have a tachometer with a 6500 rpm redline while those LT-1s with air conditioning have a tachometer with a 5600 rpm redline.

The differential yokes for the half shafts should be of the cap & bolt design rather than the u-bolt... There are other applications in 1972 for these "heavy duty" yokes, so it isn't a fool proof method.

No 1970-72 LT-1 (or small block for that matter) used a rear sway bar... Not even the ZR-1 cars (even though Chevrolet literature stated that they did).

1972 LT-1s did not use the transistorized ignition system that the 1970-71 LT-1s did... Just a standard single point distributor.

To be honest, about the only time things get interesting is when you have an LT-1/C-60 car. This is where you'll be more likely to have a VIN tag swapped due to the difficulty in replicating a factory air conditioned car. Still, I'd suggest taking someone along who is well versed on the technical aspects of these cars... It's cheap insurance in my opinion.

Good luck with your search!

Regards,

 

Original LT-1's without a/c had a 6500 rpm tach and a/c cars (only available in the last few months of production) had a 5800 rpm tach. The VIN should read 1Z37L2S5xxxxxx. The L in fifth character denotes an LT-1. If the original VIN tag is there and the rivets look correct, then the rest of the car can be verified. I don't think the LT-1's had a rear sway bar; only big blocks(?). In addition, transiistorized ignition no longer came on 72's.

A good source for correct information is the 70-72 Judging Manual available from: http://www.ncrs.org and click on the store.

Gary

 

Ask the owner for some documentation for proof.

Seems like everywhere I look, somebody has a LT1. I think there are more today than in 70-72.

Let us know how what you find.

Good Luck

 

Well gentlemen,

I went to see the car between MJ's and Len's posts. It's too bad, because Len and the guys after him mentioned some good things that I didn't look for. The car had the L Vin and the hood. No sway bar. The seller said the carb and manifold were correct, but not the block. Mickey Thompson valve covers. No distributor shielding. It's Orange with the std black vinyl--correct codes. Everything but the clock and alarm works. PS and PB were the only options on this one.

Lot's done on the car, but lots to do. It had Hooker sidepipes that were leaking near where they show themselves. The rear tips were set up as dummies. Have you guys ever seen this? The car was pretty wet underneath and the surface rust more prevalent than on my car. It needs a paint job, with the rivots showing above the headlights.

If I hadn't bought mine in September, I'd be buying this one. Not a bad deal for $11k.

Jay :cheers:

 

Aw, I thought you were gonna be a 2 Vette household! :D I tried to pull that trick about 8 months after I bought my '70. :yesnod: Mindy wouldn't go for it. Nicky71 was selling his '71, BB 454 for $12,000. I must be the only person in my household with any vision. :lol:

Being NOM, that '72 is just another 68-72 SB.

 

The wrong block wouldn't concern me other than from a $$$ level. What made the LT-1 were the carb, manifold and heads, plus dressings (valve covers air cleaner). The dressings could be replaced as well as shieldings, the pipes can be returned to stock, etc.

If everything else was there and the block had the right casting code (3970010) I still would consider the car a worthwhile LT-1 if the price were right -

The block on mine was decked, but all date and casting codes matched, and all other numbers matched for heads, intake, carb exhaust, etc.