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I'm involved with an unusual problem with the HVAC on my 1979 'vette.
I have installed a new compressor (R-4) with new accumulator, etc. and the system is charged and working fine as far as cooling capability goes. There were some vacuum leaks, blown actuators, etc. but everything has been repaired and/or replaced.
The problem is that the a/c clutch will not engage when the two-wire connector is applied to the compressor. My meter shows twelve volts are present when measuring from the dis-connected connector, but when connected the voltage reading disappears and the clutch does not engage. It's like I have twenlve volts present, but only at one mil of current. If I apply a known twelve volt source to the compressor everything works perfectly.
Additionally, the fan will not run when the control slider is on the "vent" position. I don't know if these problems are related; I can't locate a wiring diagram that covers the HVAC and I'm at a loss as to why twelve volts at the compressor connection isn't strong wnough to operate the clutch winding.
Any help would certainly be appreciated and thank you very much in advance!!
i have a 79 also, i had to remove the control panel AC function switch and clean the contacts its the one in the console that the AC harness plugs into. you may also check that you are not loosing your 12 volts at one of the low press. or thermostatic switches inline to the compressor. http://www.corvetteforum.net/c3/tune.../index16.shtml
Last edited by speedreed8; Jun 22, 2012 at 03:03 PM.
I certainly thank you for your reply! The connections on the low-pressure points are of interest now that you mention them, but without a schematic of the HVAC system these will be difficult to trace. I have several wiring diagrams but for some reason none show any wiring for cars with a/c!
I'll check as you have suggested and a sincere "Thanks" for your time!
Kind regardsm
Lamdcranch
I'm involved with an unusual problem with the HVAC on my 1979 'vette.
I have installed a new compressor (R-4) with new accumulator, etc. and the system is charged and working fine as far as cooling capability goes. There were some vacuum leaks, blown actuators, etc. but everything has been repaired and/or replaced.
The problem is that the a/c clutch will not engage when the two-wire connector is applied to the compressor. My meter shows twelve volts are present when measuring from the dis-connected connector, but when connected the voltage reading disappears and the clutch does not engage. It's like I have twenlve volts present, but only at one mil of current. If I apply a known twelve volt source to the compressor everything works perfectly.
Additionally, the fan will not run when the control slider is on the "vent" position. I don't know if these problems are related; I can't locate a wiring diagram that covers the HVAC and I'm at a loss as to why twelve volts at the compressor connection isn't strong wnough to operate the clutch winding.
Any help would certainly be appreciated and thank you very much in advance!!
Kind regards,
Landcranch
You are on the right track. Look for wires that are attached to their brass contacts/plugs with damaged strands of the wire. The volt meter requires only a small electrical connection to show voltage. The amperage/current required to pull in the clutch requires the full capacity of the wire and connectors. mike...
Mike - Thanks very much for your reply! I've been working on the problem most of the day and believe that I've located the cause. The pressure switch when closed shows a five hundred ohm resistance instead of a "no resistance" reading and I believe that is causing the current drop. If I "short around" this switch everything works normally so I'm convinced with the help of you gentlemen my troubles are over! Thanks for your kind reply and for your time!
Mike - Thanks very much for your reply! I've been working on the problem most of the day and believe that I've located the cause. The pressure switch when closed shows a five hundred ohm resistance instead of a "no resistance" reading and I believe that is causing the current drop. If I "short around" this switch everything works normally so I'm convinced with the help of you gentlemen my troubles are over! Thanks for your kind reply and for your time!
Best,
Larry
Good deal. Switches should show very little resistance. Glad you found it. mike...
Thanks for your reply! I most likely used the wrong term. The "Low Pressure Switch" has and is working normally; the problem was with the but-off switch with the sensor embedded in a tar-like substance on the side of the evaporator housing.
Everything (including this switch) was working fine during and after the charging process and then the entire system shut down. I immediately thought that the compressor clutch was not receiving current and when I found that it was but not in a "usable" amount that's when I began tracing the circuit to find where the resistance was.
I can't recall the name of the defective part, but I recognized the part from a photograph and have ordered a replacement. I'm certain that the charge is correct, but I sincerely appreciate your interest and your email!
This is a great forum and obviously frequented by a lot of great people!
Compressor cycling switch or freeze switch. Prevents evaporator from freezing by cycling off the compressor when supply air temp. or suction line gets to about 39 degrees or so. At least you will not lose the charge to change it. mike...
That's it Mike - I couldn't think of the name of the thing to save my life. No, it's not a part of the "sealed system" so replacement is simple. Right up my alley!