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Replace throttle cable on 72 w/ AC and Auto?

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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 06:51 PM
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From: Austin Tx
Default Replace throttle cable on 72 w/ AC and Auto?

I'm trying to replace my throttle cable, and I've reached the point where I've started to kick and throw things in the garage (wife doesn't like it when I curse).

I've read other threads on replaceing the throttle cable, but they don't seem to address my problem. The upper bolt seems impossible to reach. I've remoevd the pedal, and the drivers side AC line to the ball outlet, but two things are in the way of the bolt - the bracket holding the kickdown switch, and the center AC duct. If either of those was out the way, I think I could reach the bolt.

Is there a way to remove the kickdown bracket? I can't find a bolt holding it on, so am assuming it's rivets - or the same bolt I'm trying to get off.

Do I need to remove the drivers lower dash, just to remove the stinking throttle cable?
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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Mashman
......... or the same bolt I'm trying to get off.

Do I need to remove the drivers lower dash, just to remove the stinking throttle cable?
It's the same bolt you're trying to get off....it's a bear to remove, and even harder to re-install. I did not have to remove the lower dash, but I did have to contort (head down, upside down, face up with arms outstretched) to do mine. I don't have AC, however.
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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 07:21 PM
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I don't know for sure about yours, but I've seen others that the cable goes thru a hole in the upper end of the inside lever, and then a slot in the plastic grommet goes over the cable, then snaps into the hole to keep the ball end on the cable from pulling thru.

Sorry if this makes no sense- it's easy once you've seen one. Kind of like a handbrake cable on a bicycle.
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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 07:38 PM
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From: Austin Tx
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Originally Posted by C3 Stroker
It's the same bolt you're trying to get off....it's a bear to remove, and even harder to re-install. I did not have to remove the lower dash, but I did have to contort (head down, upside down, face up with arms outstretched) to do mine. I don't have AC, however.
The kickdown bracet blocks access from the right (as looking up in contorted position), and the center AC duct blocks from the left.

I'm starting to think that the Dash is going to have to be removed. I just find it hard to believe that it could have been designed that way - why the heck didn't they put the bolt on the engine side of the firewall????

I'm actually thinking about putting a slot in the tip of the bolt on the engine side, and using a screw driver. But I always say, if it's too hard, then you are doing it wrong.
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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 07:46 PM
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From: Austin Tx
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Originally Posted by TimAT
I don't know for sure about yours, but I've seen others that the cable goes thru a hole in the upper end of the inside lever, and then a slot in the plastic grommet goes over the cable, then snaps into the hole to keep the ball end on the cable from pulling thru.

Sorry if this makes no sense- it's easy once you've seen one. Kind of like a handbrake cable on a bicycle.
Thanks, but the inner cable attachment to the pedal is not the problem. I cut the inner cable in the engine side, so I could remove the pedal. Then it was easy to remove the retainer from the inner cable, and the pedal.

My problem is the outer cable is bolted to the firewall on the inside. That bolt needs to be removed so the outer cable can be pulled thru. But the bolt sees to be imposible to remove if you have AC, and an electronic kickdown switch.
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Old Jun 23, 2012 | 08:15 AM
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Only one screw holds that duct on. Remove it and the duct will slide out. Be careful as the metal tab on the duct the screw goes through is fragile, can break where it is attached to the duct and is irreppareable. Passenger ducts are common as pigtrack. Unbroken driver side ducts are nonexistant.
Yes, mine is broken...
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Old Jun 23, 2012 | 03:01 PM
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From: Austin Tx
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Well...I got my shiny new throttle cable installed, and all I needed was a 1 ft extension.



And to remove the entire dash!

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