I am now getting ready to install the ring gear to the carrier. I had noticed my 'replacement ring' gear bolts from my differential rebuild kit are longer than the original GM bolts.

I did a measurement and noted the 'replacement bolt' is .855 long and the original GM is .780.

I had bottomed out the 'replacement bolt' before I was near tightening up to the ring gear.

Has anyone had any experience with this and if so, what was your solution?


Thanks.

 

Any idea's/experience ? I am thinking I may have to resort to a grinder to shorten the 'replacement bolt'. Any direction is appreciated.

Dano,

 

I don't remember the correct length but are you using the spring washers? The ARP replament bolts are shorter than the stock bolts but don't use the spring washers. The standard hex head bolts need the spring washers.

 

Thanks for the reply.

I am using the spring/cut washer. The bolts are measured from under the hex head to the end of the bolt. The kit came from a recognized vendor with Timken bearings and quality parts.

I did 'bottom out' the bolt to determine the 'space' between the carrier and the bottom of the hex head of the bolt to see if in fact there would be enough room for the cut washer.

There is enough room ( I think they are too long) but I did not want to get a false reading while torquing the bolts meaning the false reading coming from the bottoming out of the bolt rather than the tightening of the ring gear to the carrier.

When backing out the bolt the start of the threads were damaged and it was difficult to remove. The damaged threads proved the bolt went past where the threads stopped and chewed up the bolt at the end. A tap and die corrected the situation.

Any other thoughts out there?

 

I thank you for the views and some input. I am going to "strike out on my own". I am of the mind set that the bolt is longer than needed and is 'engaging' in the area where there are no threads, My solution is to this is cut the threads off to equal the original length.

I do not want to cast doubt of an "over length bolt" but I am surprised no one has run into this before.

Maybe it is 'accepted' to take the replacement bolts for face value for length ? I would prefer to do a 'mock up' before I 'dedicate' a bolt to a permanent solution.

Please, before the last time I coat these bolts with 'Red' threadlocker tell me if there is something I am missing.

Dano,

 

Dano,
When I bought my rebuild kit it came with a set of standard bolts. I didn't use the standard bolts because I also ordered a set of ARP bolts for it.
If you'd like I can see if I still have them, and the originals that I didn't cut up for use as dowels.
I'm in Russia on business right now but I can check when I get home this weekend.

 

With ARP bolts you have to watch how they fit. You might need to slightly countersink them due a raised portion near the bolt head. When you install them make sure you check the carrier in the differential housing to see if the bolt heads are hitting.

 

Thanks for the help. I read about the ARP bolts with the shoulder and the need to countersink. I am going to cut off .075 and I should be OK with red threadlocker.

Dano,

 

Did you replace with the same gear different gears have different thicknesses, I would not cut them.until I was sure too long.

 

Hi thiatt, I am reusing the original ring gear and presently doing a bearing/posi-clutch/side shaft/seal change out. The provided ring gear bolts are definately longer than the stock GM bolt and are bottoming out before tight.

I am wondering if I should go to a bolt supplier and purchase the correct grade and length rather than cutting off all of the replacement bolts with the Dremel tool.

As a question to everyone, would I be making a mistake by reusing the original bolts and use red threadlocker to secure?

 

This ring gear bolt project is getting out of hand.

I went to the GM parts store, provided part # 14003451, parts located in Michigan 10 days away at $9.00 dollars a bolt !

As I needed ten and already paid $160.00 for a rebuild kit which should have had the correct bolts, I considered going to a bolt supply store and found grade 8 gold anodized bolts but are about .080 too short. The best thing about this route was the vendor "gave" me the bolts. Sure beats $90.00 bucks from GM.

I dropped in to a local gear vendor and told them my situation and they informed me they use the same part number, 14003451 and sold me 10 for $14.80. This is looking better...

Now here is the problem, this 14003451 bolt although very close in length, it has a larger hex head, 11/16" as compared to 9/16 and a 'serated' edge on the bottom of the hex to retain it to the carrier. I suspect I could use the lock washer but now with the larger hex, would I be running into clearance problems? Further research tells me these bolts maybe for 80-82 application. I can't tell if this has been a part number update.

To sum up all of this running around I came to the conclusion that I purchased a 'rebuild kit' from a reputable vendor with the wrong ring gear bolts. They are TOO long. With my attempt to remedy this issue I find that the new 14002451 bolt head is TOO big.

As I am not removing the ring gear from the carrier nor replacing it, I am simply going to remove each bolt in a criss cross pattern, one at a time, inspect, clean, apply red thread locker and torque to spec.

I am pretty choked of having to do a bunch of research for a manufacturer who would not take the time to provide the 'correct' bolts for this 63-79 application.

A word to you all, check the length of those bolts before you torque them down as you maybe bottoming out before you have reached your specified torque value.

Dano,