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we only due emission testing here and i blew a 1350 where the limit is 1200. time for points, plugs, condenser, oil change, air filter, pcv valve and anything other suggestions you may have. its a 71BB, 4spd. by the way.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
I assume the numbers you're quoting are Hydrocarbons and not CO...
None of the things you're wanting to do are going to fix the HC numbers. You need to retard the timing about 4 degrees, make sure you have the vacuum advance hooked up to a ported vacuum source (NOT manifold vacuum), and get your idle rpm up against the upper idle rpm limit. Put a fresh oil change on it, too. These changes will drop your HC numbers way down.
I assume the numbers you're quoting are Hydrocarbons and not CO...
None of the things you're wanting to do are going to fix the HC numbers. You need to retard the timing about 4 degrees, make sure you have the vacuum advance hooked up to a ported vacuum source (NOT manifold vacuum), and get your idle rpm up against the upper idle rpm limit. Put a fresh oil change on it, too. These changes will drop your HC numbers way down.
This will work! I had same issues - i listened to the guys on the forum. Drove car to DMV parked in lot - took out timing light - set to 4degrees - got in line... Passed with ease. After test over - reset timing for drive home. Good luck
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by ...Roger...
Lars,is engine temp a factor for hydrocarbons ?
Yes, it is. That's one of the reasons for the retarded timing specs: Retarded timing really elevates the combustion temperature and makes the engine run hot.
My sbc used to fail the tailpipe sniffer test every year. Until the tech told me to do the above mentioned tricks to pass:
Refresh the engine oil + filter.
Make sure the engine is up to operating temp right before the test.
Increase the idle...if I remember correctly 1200 rpms was allowed.
I don't know for sure if these 3 things made a failing grade into a passing one. But I know the next one did: he asked me if this was the original engine. He said the test is for the engine, not the rest of the vehicle. I told him my engine was a hodge-podge of different year parts. He said it's the engine block that makes the determination. Mine is from a '64 Chevy truck. Bingo, the standards were reduced from those required for a '69 to that of a '64.
I passed with flying colors. The tech never asked to see a casting date or any other credentials proving it qualified as a '64. So think about telling them you've got an older engine...it might help you pass.
All the above was pre 1994. I got antique/historic registration as soon as my car was eligible...more than 25 model years old. That simple change got me exempted from an safety or smog inspections for evermore.
Last edited by 69 Chevy; Jun 25, 2012 at 10:12 AM.
Even the "draconian" state of NY, has adopted the "rolling 25 years" for smog checks...
I happy for that. My 79 has side pipes, Edelbrock carb and intake, no AIR pump. The inspector said the only thing they check on the exhaust is to make sure it's not dragging on the ground.
Do they check timing when they smog it? In CA they check it. First time I took mine in it passed the pretest with flying colors but then they checked timing and it was retarded below the factory spec of 6. They made me take it to 6 and it still passed, but not by as much.
Do they check timing when they smog it? In CA they check it. First time I took mine in it passed the pretest with flying colors but then they checked timing and it was retarded below the factory spec of 6. They made me take it to 6 and it still passed, but not by as much.
Maryland and d.c both SUCK swamp water. I'd move. spentmost of my life in Virginia its a little better.I've been in Florida several years and there is lots to not like but in this regard it's great.
Ok, we have a check here every 6 months called a warrant of fitness( WOF).
No smog check, but saftey issues like brakes, suspension, mods, exhaust noise, tire condition, rust.
Costs between $35 and $50, takes about 40 mins. 28 days to remedy any recorded saftey issues or you nust pay for a reinspection
No WOF and u cant relicence you car.
Can be a pain for modified cars and noisy cars.
Lucky I am a authorised inspector
So am I--a certified inspector--but I'm not allowed to inspect my own vehicles, even if I bought the very expensive emission testing machine and had a dedicated line linking it to the state capitol, unless I owned a fleet of vehicles. I believe the minimum to qualify is 15 vehicles. [Actually I do perform my own inspections, but by law, another inspector signs the documents. And I'm lucky that my boss doesn't charge me for either the safety or emissions inspections, . I only pay for the cost of the windshield stickers. An employment perk I guess. ]
I can see where some folks might neglect the condition of their brakes or steering and be a concern to the rest of the motoring public. But exhaust emission testing, in my opinion, is just a money racket. There's very few old clunkers on the highway belching pollutants anymore; everyone's got a newer vehicle with EGR and cats. Plus we're burning cleaner fuels that do not contain tetra-ethyl lead anymore.
Maryland and d.c both SUCK swamp water. I'd move. spentmost of my life in Virginia its a little better.I've been in Florida several years and there is lots to not like but in this regard it's great.
53 years in Faryland....outside DC, hated the joint.....
15 years here in Florida paying 700/year prop taxes, that includes trash pickup.....
So if yoo are certified why would you ever be running a dual pint system with 28 degrees initial advance and another 14 degrees mechanical for a total of 42?
I just find that hard to believe that any chevy motor would find that to be ideal