Need some tips on bench bleeding M/C
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,647
Likes: 5
From: Roseville CA
Need some tips on bench bleeding M/C
I need to bench bleed my master cylinder and would like to get some tips on how best to do it. In particular, what sort of tubing arrangement works best AND when you reconnect the lines, how to you keep tons of brake fluid from running out of the M/C?
Thanks
Thanks
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 18,739
Likes: 2,583
Auto parts stores probably have a kit or you can find it on the internet. It consists of various plastic fittings that screw into the master cylinder ports and rubber hoses with a plastic mount that you bend into the reservoirs. After bleeding I installed the cover and left the fittings on with some rubber caps to minimize fluid loss. On the vehicle removed the plastic fittings and quickly connected the metal line.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 363
Likes: 72
From: Somers New York
Auto parts stores probably have a kit or you can find it on the internet. It consists of various plastic fittings that screw into the master cylinder ports and rubber hoses with a plastic mount that you bend into the reservoirs. After bleeding I installed the cover and left the fittings on with some rubber caps to minimize fluid loss. On the vehicle removed the plastic fittings and quickly connected the metal line.
I just did this job last Sunday on my 79. You will definitely need the bleeding kit. I only cost about $8.00 at my local parts store. Mount the master cylinder slightly angled up in front in your vice. I had to pump the plunger a good 10 minutes to get every last air bubble out of it. Got a rock hard pedal now.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,647
Likes: 5
From: Roseville CA
I just did this job last Sunday on my 79. You will definitely need the bleeding kit. I only cost about $8.00 at my local parts store. Mount the master cylinder slightly angled up in front in your vice. I had to pump the plunger a good 10 minutes to get every last air bubble out of it. Got a rock hard pedal now.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,683
Likes: 34
From: Working on the car NY
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but what I do is put the MC in a vice (held by wood and not the MC directly) and keep the plugs on. Fill MC with brake fluid and with a dowel, push in on the MC piston until the bubbles stop. Keeping the plugs on, install MC on car - then quickly as possible, take plug out and install line - then do the other plug and line.
Completly bleed car (RR, LR, RF, LF) and then bleed the MC ports. Works for me
Never needed a "bleeder kit."
Completly bleed car (RR, LR, RF, LF) and then bleed the MC ports. Works for me
Never needed a "bleeder kit."
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 5,339
Likes: 546
From: Central Texas
Pro
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 624
Likes: 1
From: Melbourne, Fla. 6 months- New Middletown, Ohio 6 months
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but what I do is put the MC in a vice (held by wood and not the MC directly) and keep the plugs on. Fill MC with brake fluid and with a dowel, push in on the MC piston until the bubbles stop. Keeping the plugs on, install MC on car - then quickly as possible, take plug out and install line - then do the other plug and line.
Completly bleed car (RR, LR, RF, LF) and then bleed the MC ports. Works for me Never needed a "bleeder kit."
Completly bleed car (RR, LR, RF, LF) and then bleed the MC ports. Works for me
Never needed a "bleeder kit."I just replaced the booster and master cylinder on my 71. The MC came with plugs installed (no hoses) and instructions to put in vice, fill with fluid and start pushing in the piston in about 1 inch and slowly release. Continue doing that until no bubbles appear and the piston will not move more than ~1/8". next, leave the plugs in until installed and ready to connect lines.
After the lines were connected I suction bled with a vacuum pump into a jar, right rear inner and outer, left rear inner and outer, right front and then left front until I had clean fluid at all points. I have the best brakes I have ever had with no additional bleeding.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,647
Likes: 5
From: Roseville CA
I got it done and it wasn't too bad of a job. There was air in the M/C, but I'm sure it's all out now. I'm surprised at how little fluid ran out of the M/C when the lines are disconnected. But now I think the booster is going bad. Sometimes, usually at idle (big cam), there is not much braking force. When braking while engine braking (clutch engaged) there's massive braking power and can easily lock up all four wheels.
On a side note, I picked up a Motive Power Bleeder. This thing is awesome. And it comes with a thick aluminum plate, I thought they were plastic. I only had one C clamp and so I had to use their chains on one side. Otherwise, setup would have been a breeze.
On a side note, I picked up a Motive Power Bleeder. This thing is awesome. And it comes with a thick aluminum plate, I thought they were plastic. I only had one C clamp and so I had to use their chains on one side. Otherwise, setup would have been a breeze.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,683
Likes: 34
From: Working on the car NY
Maybe they upgraded cause mine is plastic and with the plastic top, you (at least i do) have to be VERY careful to make sure it is positioned correctly otherwise it leaks. I put a piece of wood over the top and use a C clamp to hold it down - but you still have to watch it.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 650
Likes: 1
I got it done and it wasn't too bad of a job. There was air in the M/C, but I'm sure it's all out now. I'm surprised at how little fluid ran out of the M/C when the lines are disconnected. But now I think the booster is going bad. Sometimes, usually at idle (big cam), there is not much braking force. When braking while engine braking (clutch engaged) there's massive braking power and can easily lock up all four wheels.
On a side note, I picked up a Motive Power Bleeder. This thing is awesome. And it comes with a thick aluminum plate, I thought they were plastic. I only had one C clamp and so I had to use their chains on one side. Otherwise, setup would have been a breeze.
On a side note, I picked up a Motive Power Bleeder. This thing is awesome. And it comes with a thick aluminum plate, I thought they were plastic. I only had one C clamp and so I had to use their chains on one side. Otherwise, setup would have been a breeze.
Wow! Your Motive Power Bleeder plate is a hell of a lot nicer than my craptastic plastic MC plate. Glad they improved it.