Last weekend I made some brass squirter tubes for my washer arms from pictures(thanks juliet). They came out real nice and look correct. I hooked up everything and of course the 33 year old pump leaked. I bought a rebuild kit and Saturday morning I ATTEMPTED to rebuild the pump. When I re-installed it, it pumped, but would not shut off. After several tries, I decided that there were some worn-out parts that were not allowing the pump to shut off. I bought a new pump to use for parts, as a 69 is a very rare and valuable pump. After combining the two pumps, and re-installing it, I had the same results. The pump did not shut off. Of and on, of and on, of and on the pump assembly came as I tried to find out why it would not shut off. I finally checked the voltage at the pump solenoid and found it had 12V continuous, immediately explaining why it would not shut off. This morning I took apart the wiper switch (inside the car) and rebuilt it, put it back together and the pump wouldn't shut off. :cry :cry :cry
Finally, I manually moved the indexer on the pump one click at a time and after about the third time, BINGO, the indexing was correct and now the pump works fine. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
It appears that the stuck switch allowed the pump mechanism to run continuously when the wipers were running. There were two worn-out parts in the old pump that could not have worn any other way but that. Now it works and looks like new, but it was not as simple as it seems.

 

Congratulations!!!! I'm glad you got that taken care of. It will be nice to have a clean windshield at the push of a button.

 

Do the headlight washers work too then? I need to rebuild my washer pump too, I am glad you posted it, or I wouldn't have remembered to do it.

AC

 

Silver,how many pumps or presses on the button b4 fuild flows?....mine takes forever then either works poorly or wont shut off same as you had.....any more details or magic cures would help...thanks......john :chevy

 

For clarification, the pump solenoid is supposed to have 12volts on the yellow wire all the time the key is on, or in accessory. The dark blue wire is ground, and it is operated by the dash switch. When you hit the switch to squirt, it passes ground. So you must have had ground on the blue wire all the time.
I had my washers run and not shut off this morning. When I removed the washer components, I found wear on the metal part that runs off the nylon cam gear. It therefore would not move the washer bar far enough to park it. I swapped with a 69 washer cover I had, now works fine.

 

Good deal Larry! I'm glad the pictures helped. Did you get those repro clips from Paragon? Did they fit OK? Also, can you explain this indexing thing to me? I'm not quite sure I get what you're saying... Here'a a picture of the guts (mine's still apart BTW - last time I put it back together it bound up the system so I yanked it off temporarily (2 years ago!)) :D




Thanks, ~Juliet



[Modified by Juliet, 12:36 AM 5/27/2002]

 

In response to the question that it takes a lot of "pushes" to get fluid, the most likely cause is that the "one way" valves are missing from the hoses. There is a one way valve to the wiper component, and as I recall to both headlights. These barrel shaped valves look like vacuum "T"'s but are not. They prevent water/washer fluid from draining back through the hoses. Thus the hoses are always full of fluid. If these are missing, you have to push the button enough to fill the hoses before the fluid squirts on the windshield/headlight. I've never seen these reproduced. I've bought them at flea markets, usually in the 25 cent box. Chuck

 

Hooray!! I'm back on line. Had to re format my computer. :cry My pump works great.. The ratchet gear had worn so the last tooth wouldn't engage and it wouldn't shut off. The metal drive pin was also badly worn which may not have allowed the link to pull back far enough to shut off. I used those two parts from a new pump. Luckily the big four cornered drive cam was not damaged as the new one was not indexed correctly and would not have worked. I do not know if those worn parts were the cause or result of running continuously as my wiper switch was somehow stuck or shorted or ? so there was 12 volts at the washer pump. When I opened and cleaned and lubed the switch it worked like it is supposed to. The job was a little frustrating as there were several problems. I'll work up a detailed instuction for doing this job.