L48 compression test questions
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Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Dallas
L48 compression test questions
I bought a new2me 1980 corvette on Thursday. Today I set off to run a compression test.
I measured on a warm (still hot enough to burn skin) engine. It wasn't at full temp because it took me too long to remove the spark plugs from those terribly placed exhaust headers!
All cylinders were 180psi +\- 4psi.
So the question is... Is this good? What is the expected range? I don't yet have a 1980 shop manual.
It is obvious the engine has been modified; but the block is original. I can't yet tell if the crank, cam, or head are stock.
I measured on a warm (still hot enough to burn skin) engine. It wasn't at full temp because it took me too long to remove the spark plugs from those terribly placed exhaust headers!
All cylinders were 180psi +\- 4psi.
So the question is... Is this good? What is the expected range? I don't yet have a 1980 shop manual.
It is obvious the engine has been modified; but the block is original. I can't yet tell if the crank, cam, or head are stock.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
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From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
I bought a new2me 1980 corvette on Thursday. Today I set off to run a compression test.
I measured on a warm (still hot enough to burn skin) engine. It wasn't at full temp because it took me too long to remove the spark plugs from those terribly placed exhaust headers!
All cylinders were 180psi +\- 4psi.
So the question is... Is this good? What is the expected range? I don't yet have a 1980 shop manual.
It is obvious the engine has been modified; but the block is original. I can't yet tell if the crank, cam, or head are stock.
I measured on a warm (still hot enough to burn skin) engine. It wasn't at full temp because it took me too long to remove the spark plugs from those terribly placed exhaust headers!
All cylinders were 180psi +\- 4psi.
So the question is... Is this good? What is the expected range? I don't yet have a 1980 shop manual.
It is obvious the engine has been modified; but the block is original. I can't yet tell if the crank, cam, or head are stock.
Stock is about 150. Somebody juiced it up a little and sounds like they did a good job.
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From: Dallas
That would be nice! I read somewhere that carbon build-up bumps the PSI... I'd rather not pull the heads, so is there a way to figure out where it would it be coming from?
It's pretty worn, but the block ID seems to be the original block for the car. I don't know how to prove original heads, but the casting number seems to be correct.
Perhaps it's stroked? Would a vacuum tester tell me that?
A perf cam wouldn't change compression would it?
It's pretty worn, but the block ID seems to be the original block for the car. I don't know how to prove original heads, but the casting number seems to be correct.
Perhaps it's stroked? Would a vacuum tester tell me that?
A perf cam wouldn't change compression would it?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
That's pretty decent compression, man. I bet it goes pretty good, huh? Are you able to run regular gas in it?
I've been thinking about it, and without actually trying it, I don't know if it's possible to do, but if you could stick a very thin, stiff rod, like maybe one of those little wooden skewers that beef teriyaki comes on, down in the spark plug hole, you might be able to tell if it has a 3.75" or 3.48" stroke. I can't really visualize all the angles in my head, so I don't know for sure if it's even possible.
Cam timing definitely has an effect on compression, because it controls when the valves are open and closed during the cycle. Read this article:
http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/...d=68/prd68.htm
Keep the shiny side up!
Scott
I've been thinking about it, and without actually trying it, I don't know if it's possible to do, but if you could stick a very thin, stiff rod, like maybe one of those little wooden skewers that beef teriyaki comes on, down in the spark plug hole, you might be able to tell if it has a 3.75" or 3.48" stroke. I can't really visualize all the angles in my head, so I don't know for sure if it's even possible.
Cam timing definitely has an effect on compression, because it controls when the valves are open and closed during the cycle. Read this article:
http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/...d=68/prd68.htm
Keep the shiny side up!
Scott
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,948
Likes: 72
From: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
Have you started a thread on the transmission, or is it something you have a handle on, and don't need any help with? If you are looking for a manual, I have a Chilton's and a Haynes, I would recommend both, because each one covers some things more in depth than the other, between the two of them, I'm in pretty good shape. But the most important 'vette book I own is the Assembly Instruction Manual, known around here as the AIM, it's a lifesaver! It's basically the manual that the guys on the assembly line used to build your car, and it show how everything goes together, and I mean everything! Right down to how they installed the emblems.
Keep the shiny side up!
Scott
Keep the shiny side up!
Scott
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From: Dallas
No I've not started on the tranny yet. Need to figure out my lift setup first. I could/will eventually buy a real shop lift but not for at least a few months. But then I'd need a tranny jack too. Seems more realistic to borrow an engine hoist for $17/day & pull it all.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2011
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I bought a new2me 1980 corvette on Thursday. Today I set off to run a compression test.
I measured on a warm (still hot enough to burn skin) engine. It wasn't at full temp because it took me too long to remove the spark plugs from those terribly placed exhaust headers!
All cylinders were 180psi +\- 4psi.
So the question is... Is this good? What is the expected range? I don't yet have a 1980 shop manual.
It is obvious the engine has been modified; but the block is original. I can't yet tell if the crank, cam, or head are stock.
I measured on a warm (still hot enough to burn skin) engine. It wasn't at full temp because it took me too long to remove the spark plugs from those terribly placed exhaust headers!
All cylinders were 180psi +\- 4psi.
So the question is... Is this good? What is the expected range? I don't yet have a 1980 shop manual.
It is obvious the engine has been modified; but the block is original. I can't yet tell if the crank, cam, or head are stock.
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Race Director
Joined: May 2005
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From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
That is where I was coming from. +/- 10% is typical good readings. To be +/- 2% and 30 PSI over what you would see on a stock engine is great. Well built and beefed up is a good start. If tuning is right it should be a fun engine. Doubt carbon buildup is the reason for higher compresion readings
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From: Dallas
Well thanks for the good news! I have decided not to pull the heads because I believe everything is in good shape.
The one last internal engine issue: most (not all) of my spark plugs are oil fouled! I'm assuming that since my compression is good the most likely failure point is leaky valve seals. I bought the complete set yesterday and plan to replace them all today.
Assuming I have time for a good carb tune and replacing the coolant temp sender, I should have a finished happy engine by the end of the day!!
The one last internal engine issue: most (not all) of my spark plugs are oil fouled! I'm assuming that since my compression is good the most likely failure point is leaky valve seals. I bought the complete set yesterday and plan to replace them all today.
Assuming I have time for a good carb tune and replacing the coolant temp sender, I should have a finished happy engine by the end of the day!!