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Yes, use it. It feeds into the space under the ballstud and rubber boot. I put several good pumps of grease in there and as soon as I saw the boot bulge I stopped.
Why they put a lug for a locking bolt on there I will never know. It was a bear to assemble to the rod. It will be on there after the sun cools.
Be careful greasing the valve. A Corvette SS brake production shop in Miami that rebuilds these units told me to have the engine running when you do grease it and to not get carried away. Just a shot or two as you can create a leak. I remember when I first greased one of these valves many years ago a trail of the red fluid started dripping a few days later.
Caution! I would suggest that you contact Jim_Shea on this Forum (send him a PM) and ask about that little bugger before you shoot the grease to it. As I recall, the original parts had a functional grease fitting for the ballstud. But, newer rebuilds either block that off or should not be greased for some reason.
Jim is the resident expert on the Saginaw steering systems and will advise you properly, I'm sure.
Be careful greasing the valve. A Corvette SS brake production shop in Miami that rebuilds these units told me to have the engine running when you do grease it and to not get carried away. Just a shot or two as you can create a leak. I remember when I first greased one of these valves many years ago a trail of the red fluid started dripping a few days later.
I have always greased this fitting with the engine running,otherwise the grease can push past the seal into the power steering fluid area.
Very little is needed,some re-builders installed a plug in place of the zerk to keep from over greasing.
In the back of my mind for many years of C2/C3 driving I have had the notion to leave that grease fitting alone. And I have. In fact I have in my spare parts inventory a brand-new unit from the Texas people that does not even have one!
I have been pleased as punch this year with my new blue-printed steering box from someone I can't mention here. All is very well and I love the steering response and tracking on this old car. I won't get into the Borgeson comparison. I am happy with OEM. Hands off the wheel at 70mph and the car just tracks true. I don't regret the cost of that box and it was not $180.00 FleaBay style.
This Canada Day weekend was just glorious and the Wife and I had a fine time. A pic from today as we visited the graves of her Mother and Father. We maintain the sites with flowers and shrubs. As we do as well with the graves of My Mother and Father.
OK, enough of what I do beyond the garage. The 1974 hummed in 80*F heat today but the thought when I came home was - I wasn't at Woodstock - but I had a flashback: I have never greased that valve. So in a senior moment I thought I would seek advice here. I may give it one wee gentle shot to keep the ball stud happy. Thanks for the advice!
Thanks everyone. I loved the weekend. WOW, a C3 convertible on a sunny 80*F day. OK a rubber bumper but life is good.
Paul, your rubber bumper car looks better then a lot of chrome bumper vettes. Very nice ride. Tim
Thanks Tim. After many years of driving these Tupperware cars it all boils down to what you need and want. The 1974 L-48 with 195 net HP is fine with me for Sunday afternoon drives. ZR-1? For younger folks. I have passed the 60+ age barrier.
I want cleanliess and mechanical safety. That is what I have.
I've just recently had mine and a friends power valve apart, any grease that you over fill that zerc. with will flow out the boot around the stud that connects to the pitman arm. there's a cap and an o-ring that keep the grease from going into the fluid portion of the valve. However, if the seals in the fluid side are bad, they will leak into the grease side because they are under pressure from the pump and you will either get fluid out that zerc or fluid out of the boot. hope this helps
I've just recently had mine and a friends power valve apart, any grease that you over fill that zerc. with will flow out the boot around the stud that connects to the pitman arm. there's a cap and an o-ring that keep the grease from going into the fluid portion of the valve. However, if the seals in the fluid side are bad, they will leak into the grease side because they are under pressure from the pump and you will either get fluid out that zerc or fluid out of the boot. hope this helps
There are no leaks now. Going back to the top perhaps I should go back to if it works leave it alone. I tend to not observe that old axiom and get myself in trouble. In seeking 100% the last 5% screws you. Yep, done it.
There are no leaks now. Going back to the top perhaps I should go back to if it works leave it alone. I tend to not observe that old axiom and get myself in trouble. In seeking 100% the last 5% screws you. Yep, done it.
Paul- I remember reading that at least one vendor states that the unit is lubed for life and NOT to inject any additional grease. Unless the old grease has leaked out- why would new grease be needed?