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O/k, after years of research the oil issue has been resolved.
I remember as a kid, my Father and Grandfather were both bus mechanics, and they had cars / trucks that always had around 100,000 miles it seemed, ran like a top in the heat or freezing cold.
A couple times a year they would change their oil and filter (every other change).
As experienced mechanics I would overhear them at times and obtained this secret oil knowledge when they were about to do an oil change.
I now give you the until now secret oil information, they would say something like:
"Hey Pop, gonna change the oil, can you pick me up 4 or 5 cans of oil on the way home?"
But where can we find "cans" of oil? And are tall skinny cans better than the short rounderones? Which can material is best? Will steel cans allow osmosis like seepage of the good oil properties out or will aluminum degrade the secret ingredients.......
But where can we find "cans" of oil? And are tall skinny cans better than the short rounderones? Which can material is best? Will steel cans allow osmosis like seepage of the good oil properties out or will aluminum degrade the secret ingredients.......
Excellent point. All oil, only for C3 Corvettes, should be in a alum. can and must be opened with a triangle pointed can opener, and poured out at a 40 degree angle to allow the proper air / humidity release, so as not to have excess humidity enter the engine and cause rust formation.
C! and C2 Vettes must, must, be from a can with a steel bottom & top and cardboard side material, and the same can opener can be used. Although I would suggest a pour angle of no more than 35 degrees.
By chance did you over hear what color the cans were? yellow, black or green?
What a ridiculous idea. Everyone knows that colors contain sacrificial UV inhibitors that break down over time. Since the colors will fade, the only meaningful way of determining which is the correct oil is graphics, which do not change over time.
What a ridiculous idea. Everyone knows that colors contain sacrificial UV inhibitors that break down over time. Since the colors will fade, the only meaningful way of determining which is the correct oil is graphics, which do not change over time.
My dad (mechanic and stock car racer in the 70's and 80's) said that Quaker was 90mph oil.
We watched a guy sit one of those old round quaker oil cans on the roof of his stock car, put a screw through his roof and into the bottom of the can. Pulled out onto the track to hotlap his car. The announcer went nuts says to stop that car and get him off the track before his can fell off and put oil on the track. The flagman gave him the black flag for 3 or 4 laps before someone ran out into the track to shut him down. By now everyone in the pits is laughing and realizing what the guy had done. So that oil was rated for about 90mph on our local track and considered the fastest oil around.
I disagree about using the "church key" style opener. Back when cans were cans any mechanician worth his salt owned an oil spout... chrome plated steel tube which had a hardened can opener built right in... simply stab the can and pour. No need to pierce the can twice or hunt a funnel to ensure dripless pouring. I think I still have mine somewhere...
I disagree about using the "church key" style opener. Back when cans were cans any mechanician worth his salt owned an oil spout... chrome plated steel tube which had a hardened can opener built right in... simply stab the can and pour. No need to pierce the can twice or hunt a funnel to ensure dripless pouring. I think I still have mine somewhere...
Got mine in the bottom drawer of the tool box. Know right where it is. Haven't used it in 30+ years.