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From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
As I stated earlier, you need to rebuild - not upgrade. All your rubber is shot, and I imagine your front a-arm bushings look about the same. You need to get Van Steel to put together a complete rubber kit for you along with all the front end/steering/suspension rebuild parts. I'll bet your rear trailing arms also need rebuilding, so you certainly have a bit of work ahead of you...
Well here it's been a year since i started this thread and I still haven't got around to doing suspension work on my car.
Anyways, I emailed Eckler's and asked them a few questions in regaurds to all the things you guys have mentioned. Does anyone have anything to say about them? They seem a bit more cheaper than VB&P and vansteel.
Or if anyone has anything else they'd like to throw out please let me know. It's been a long time coming on this and want to make sure I do it right the first time.
As I stated earlier, you need to rebuild - not upgrade. All your rubber is shot, and I imagine your front a-arm bushings look about the same. You need to get Van Steel to put together a complete rubber kit for you along with all the front end/steering/suspension rebuild parts. I'll bet your rear trailing arms also need rebuilding, so you certainly have a bit of work ahead of you...
Lars
Well put. First you rebuild, and alignment.
Then drive the car. From there I ask two questions:
What am I looking for in the car? Are you looking for a comfort cruiser? Drag car? Time Trail car or full road racer?
What is the car doing right and what is it doing wrong. This needs to be asked. The answer may be, nothing…the car is great.
I had a specific complaint. When I used to turn into a corner, the car did not to respond, then darted into the corner (Non-linear turn in response). The solution was two bolts. The SkunkWorks recommended I check my Z height. It was 3.25 inches. With the two bolts, I corrected the cars height and the car handled was noticeably improved.
I looked at this but it's $100 more in comparison to eckler's and i get the monoleaf spring which is what i've been recomended to get.
Watch out, the monoleaf in Eckler's kit seems to be the hyperco spring, which are notorious for their over arching (vette become dune buggy).
I'd go with a vbnp spring if I was you.
Looks like the kits from vbandp doesn't come w/ the MOOG brand. Are those the cat's meow?
The car is just a cruising car. Nothing fancy. I just know it's all dried up and pretty much needs replaced. She rides like a lumber wagon now so I'm just looking for a slight improvement.
I bought the same TRW springs for my 454 LS4 from Advance Auto for like 45 dollars apiece that sell for mnay times that by middle men VINTAGE DEALERS and others ripping people off. Many parts are still made , just have to find out WHO can get them.
Today ...the LEG WORK is a s big time consuming part as the actual work itself since the good OEM items have to be tracked down. Take you time, disassembly everything, see what can be refurbished , your old parts are even rusted can be cleaned up and are better than the new junk.
Replacement of those tired front springs was some of the best money I ever spent on my car.
Lars was right buy what he said.
Shop around, GM didn't make the parts they bought them from other companies, look around and buy the best pieces from OEM companies. Don't be shy. ask the parts vendor WHO supplies your item, if they don't know ....move on.
I would stick with the rubber bushings , since you are not autocrossing.
Not all parts are created equal..... shop for the best quality for each item you need to bring the car back to your expectations.
Using substandard items , you'll be doing it again ..... china bearings,
I had a set of strut rod shipped to me recently , they were NEW and bent and TWISTED both ways !!! The quality was deplorable ...total junk
Those huge packages , are like building a house , the buliders use the cheapest parts ( fixtures , plumbing) they can get away with making you THINK you are getting a good deal. You have to do the homework today to even try and get close to the original quality . Most of the stuff repro'd sucks azz.
By USA forged metals with correct finish . No Chinese junk bearings. Garbage.
Last edited by LS4 PILOT; Jul 10, 2013 at 08:56 AM.
You don't want that style rear sway bar that is in those kits you are posting. Looks like you already have a stock style rear anyways, which will be perfect for your car. Just buy a new hardware and bushing kit for it
You can order all the front suspension components direct from MOOG. That's what I did.
Willcox can assemble a kit for you that has all MOOG/Federal-Mogul parts. It may cost more than the Eckler's kit, but contains better components.
Your trailing arms look horrid. Lotsa work there. It is rewarding though.
Yes, I redid my entire suspension and steering system. Front and rear. Night and day improvement. Pony up the $$ for the best components.
just buy the MOOG parts locally at you parts store, ten buy all the bushings locally too. The rear spring, buy from of the vendors like Willcox, he gives you a 10% discount every day for being a forum member. Just look at the money you save on shipping fees on the parts bought locally!
Should I get the offset trailing arms? What are the pros/cons of that?
I got some quotes from van steel. If I go w/ the Moog set up really worth the extra money?
The offset trailing arms are used when you install dramatically wider rear wheels. Otherwise, not necessary.
It takes the same amount of time to install good parts as junk ones. When you use good parts, you only have to install them once............