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Change in future engine plans...questions...

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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 11:16 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by KevinK
I already have that. I've DEF decided that which ever way I go, I'm going roller cam.
You have a solid flat tappet cam already? You original post said Vortec head but nothing about the cam. A flat tappet cam shouldn't be a low end grunt motor like you were describing.

Solid roller or hydraulic roller? A factory roller 350 block could be used to build a nice roller cammed 383.
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 11:49 PM
  #22  
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If your want to be shifting above 6000RPM you might want to check out the RS500 or the RS600 as the TKO doesn't shift to good above 6000RPM. (So I've been told). I'll let you know next year if I meet my target of completion.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 12:20 AM
  #23  
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some say the cranks on 1pc rms are a touch weaker who knows.

If it were me Id get the Dart block 1 pc rms (leak less imo) 4.125 bore and stick a 3.5 in stroke with a long rod. Youd have a good rod/stroke ratio still buzz the motor without hurting it and not give up a bunch of torque. Good say 220 AFR head solid roller around 260ish@.050 and hang the hell on. Skip 8000...say reliable 7000 7500 max. It would be an easy 600+hp animal you could run on pump. Actually you could run a little less cam and give it even better manners and still make good hp.
Youll want good bottom end part, splurge for shaft rockers to make it bulletproof. Cant be cheap with a sbc that spins. It wont be cheap but it willl pucker your butt.

Google Joe Sherman hes the Grand Daddy of smallblocks imo. I bet he could build you something that exceeded your expectations for less than you could ever do it yourself. Dynoed tuned ready to go.

He can pull more power out of the same parts better than most.

Last edited by cv67; Jul 13, 2012 at 12:30 AM.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 01:22 AM
  #24  
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You could go 4.125 bore Dart SHP block W/350 mains. bore to 4.155
Use this 4.155 piston: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UEM-IC763-030/
Use this 6.125 rod: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAN-14055-8/
This crank: part #/spec: 43503250 .....4340 SBC 350 mains, 3.250" stroke.....$475 website: http://www.ohiocrank.com
This gets you a 352 CI engine with big bore/short stroke and all off the shelf parts. Forged bottom end is under $1800. piston is .014 in the hole so
this head gasket: http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...?Ns=Rank%7cAsc
And These heads: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AFR-1054/ gets you 11.63 to 1 compression with .041 quench.
This cam:http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...?csid=303&sb=2 Will let it run on pump fuel. @ 8.3 to 1 DCR, feed the heads what they need and allow 7500 RPM shift points.
Combine this with a TKO 600 and a 4.56 gear and you will love it. It will pull hard as tight as you want to wind it, stay solid in the poweband on upshifts, and the reduced piston speed from the stroke will help it stay together. Take a lesson from Nascar. Short stroke, big bore, big head flow, gear it to work. I want one.

Last edited by 63mako; Jul 13, 2012 at 01:40 AM.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 01:51 AM
  #25  
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Forget lotto tickets Obama give me an SB2!
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 04:53 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Forget lotto tickets Obama give me an SB2!
He's up for relection i'm sure something could be arranged by uncle sugar once known as uncle sam.

Last edited by Little Mouse; Jul 13, 2012 at 05:01 AM.
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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 11:07 PM
  #27  
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Kevin, at the risk of sounding like a tool. Based on your questions and statements on "how to" books, you need someone with you checking your work. Find someone to help you out and go thru your plans with him before buying anything. I don't know what your budget is, but there are so many ways to go. Unfortunately you don't live near me or I'd offer to be that guy.

My 2 cents,
Dan
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