Lakewood scattershield install tips needed
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 153
Likes: 2
Lakewood scattershield install tips needed
Based on all the feedback I received on the forum here I decided to fork out the $ and buy a scattershield for my car. The engine has a solid lifter cam and will see some high RPMs so I felt it was a needed safety item. I've never installed one before but know that I will need to index the housing and dial in the clutch fork pivot ball. I've read the threads on indexing and watched the videos but if there are any "words of wisdom" about how to make this easy I would appreciate them. I am also a little confused about how to measure the 4.75 inch spec for the pivot ball to the block (or block plate ?).
I will be doing all of this with the motor OUT OF THE CAR as I am just finishing up my engine build and will be reinstalling the motor with the bell housing and 4 speed attached.
My final dilemma is whether or not to use the block plate. I've already installed the flywheel, with ARP fasteners and lock tight... I am unsure if I want to pull it off. I really just want to protect my feet honestly.
I will be doing all of this with the motor OUT OF THE CAR as I am just finishing up my engine build and will be reinstalling the motor with the bell housing and 4 speed attached.
My final dilemma is whether or not to use the block plate. I've already installed the flywheel, with ARP fasteners and lock tight... I am unsure if I want to pull it off. I really just want to protect my feet honestly.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 836
Likes: 26
From: Harrisburg Pa
A scttershield or blow proof bell is worthless without the backing plate.
I have the same brand on my 69. The whole purpose of the assembly is to keep all flying parts inside,,,. if you do not install the backing plate then you will have more flying parts, this will be your block!
And use the grade 8 bolts that came with it.
I have the same brand on my 69. The whole purpose of the assembly is to keep all flying parts inside,,,. if you do not install the backing plate then you will have more flying parts, this will be your block!
And use the grade 8 bolts that came with it.
Last edited by TOM B1; Jul 11, 2012 at 11:17 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 153
Likes: 2
So any issues with re-torquing the same flywheel bolts once I break lose the lock tight? I am sure I will need to chase the threads at a minimum but is there any risk of reusing the bolts?
Any insight on indexing or setting up the pivot ball?
Any insight on indexing or setting up the pivot ball?
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
The plate is a "Block Saver". It might kind of keep broken stuff inside.
Lake wood sells a cheaper non SFI blow proof.
As for indexing. Post your numbers and I or others can tell you which direction you need to go.
I only use the Allen locking offset dowel pins. But with a block plate and thicker bell you have to use the longer dowel pins.
I would just buy the GM longer pivot ball and see how close to 90 degrees the clutch fork rod is to the throw out bearing and @ clearance the throwout is to the PP fingers
Lake wood sells a cheaper non SFI blow proof.
As for indexing. Post your numbers and I or others can tell you which direction you need to go.
I only use the Allen locking offset dowel pins. But with a block plate and thicker bell you have to use the longer dowel pins.
I would just buy the GM longer pivot ball and see how close to 90 degrees the clutch fork rod is to the throw out bearing and @ clearance the throwout is to the PP fingers
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 153
Likes: 2
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Here are the dowels I bought, are these good for use with the block plate? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LAK-15907/ I'm going to call ARP today and ask about reusing the bolts.
You can reuse ARP bolts. Since the thread locker has not heat cycled or aged I would not worry about thread chasing. Just clean the holes out with spray brake cleaner.
Years ago I did a write up on bell housing indexing. I used a mag base arm for the dial indicator. because the mag base holds outside the arp bolts. I bent the arm in a vice so it would come out of the bell hole easier
Last edited by gkull; Jul 12, 2012 at 07:37 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
From an old post:
Think of the dowel pins as cam lobes. Install them in the same orientation and rotate them the same amount in unision. Like both high points to 12 o'clock with a .007 offset lobe. Would be lifting the bell housing up .007 Both to 3 o'clock would move the bell right .007
Allen locking dowel pins are the best way to go. I've screwed around with press fit dowels and they are a pita to rotate some times
http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/dowels.html
Think of the dowel pins as cam lobes. Install them in the same orientation and rotate them the same amount in unision. Like both high points to 12 o'clock with a .007 offset lobe. Would be lifting the bell housing up .007 Both to 3 o'clock would move the bell right .007
Allen locking dowel pins are the best way to go. I've screwed around with press fit dowels and they are a pita to rotate some times
http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/dowels.html
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 153
Likes: 2
From an old post:
Think of the dowel pins as cam lobes. Install them in the same orientation and rotate them the same amount in unision. Like both high points to 12 o'clock with a .007 offset lobe. Would be lifting the bell housing up .007 Both to 3 o'clock would move the bell right .007
Allen locking dowel pins are the best way to go. I've screwed around with press fit dowels and they are a pita to rotate some times
http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/dowels.html
Think of the dowel pins as cam lobes. Install them in the same orientation and rotate them the same amount in unision. Like both high points to 12 o'clock with a .007 offset lobe. Would be lifting the bell housing up .007 Both to 3 o'clock would move the bell right .007
Allen locking dowel pins are the best way to go. I've screwed around with press fit dowels and they are a pita to rotate some times
http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/dowels.html
