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ignition switch problem.....advice needed!!!!

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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 06:30 PM
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Default ignition switch problem.....advice needed!!!!

could use some advice or suggestions on my ignition switch dilemma.
today I finished up the installation of the steering box and ignition switch on the 82 w/T&T. the car won't start and the cylinder switch (key switch) seems hard to move at times. went through Jim Shea's papers and the instructions with the ign switch, and I was going to replace the cylinder switch also, but didn't get that far.
the actuator rod moves freely, but when you look at the top of the ignition switch (where you can see the spring that moves when you go to start the engine) the spring doesn't compress completely like on the old switch. which leads me to believe that I am off 1 detent on the switch, or there is something else going on. the only thing that I can think of is that when the ignition switch was put on the actuator rod, it moved 1 detent.
so any thoughts or suggestions are welcome, thinking I probably have to undo the switch and start over. thanks for any input......Tom
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 06:47 PM
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side note.....key will not go into ACC position
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 07:01 PM
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What do you mean by detent ? Are you referring to the teeth up at the key cylinder,as if you jumped a tooth ? If so I don't think you can jump a tooth,although I've never tried to see if you can.

I think I would remove the new ign switch and make sure it will go to all positions.
Also check that the rod is down in the switch all the way.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ...Roger...
What do you mean by detent ? Are you referring to the teeth up at the key cylinder,as if you jumped a tooth ? If so I don't think you can jump a tooth,although I've never tried to see if you can.

I think I would remove the new ign switch and make sure it will go to all positions.
Also check that the rod is down in the switch all the way.
Roger, referring to the detents (positions) on the ignition switch itself, moving from one position to another is what I am trying to say.

The ignition switch does go in each position. Will recheck the rod again, ( you can see the rod move back & forth when turning the key off and on and trying to start the engine.
thanks for the reply.......appreciated. Tom
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 07:16 PM
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Have you tried adjusting the switch by sliding it ? I don't have a switch here to look at but it seems I remember there is only 1 hole in the switch to insert the rod in BUT I seem to remember another divot in the switch that you might get the rod to set down into. If the rod is not in the correct hole the rod would stick up and rub , which might explain being hard to turn the key. Just a thought.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 07:52 PM
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No, haven't tried that yet. but when I adjusted the dimmer switch, it may have been possible that the ignition switch moved slightly, so it's best to recheck everything. this time I will try to start the engine before putting the column back in place. thanks......
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 11:26 AM
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Default problem solved, engine starts just fine!!!

got up early this AM and pulled the steering column out once again, although probably not necessary. this gave me tons of room to make the adjustment which turned out to be very simple, and that was moving (sliding) the ignition switch to its furthest travel (as Roger suggested) on the hold down plate, going towards the engine. so we did have the switch and the cylinder switch in the same position, just needed to take out the slack in the actuator rod between the two. engine started right up after the adjustment....
Roger, thank you once again for your thoughts, helped me out
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