I changed my front seal, and pan gasket to stop the messy leaks. when installing my new balancer with a Pro Form install tool the pilot necked and snapped off in the crank. I wasnt even cranking on it hard and had it screwed in all the way but not bottomed out. The package showed the tool was made in Taiwan. I googled it and it seems I have a lot of company in this predicament.
I removed the balancer which was about 3/16" from being seated. I am going to machine a pilot out of another 7/16 bolt and drill a hole through it. I have a few threads I can catch in the crank hole to center and straighten the bolt then use a left hand carbide bit and drill a hole exactly center in the broken off pilot stud. If the LH drill don't back it out I will gently try an easyout (Argh!) If that don't work I will drill out with a larger bit to the threads and try to clean up with a tap. After that its lift rental time and a crank kit.
What make me really mad is I just installed side pipes and was looking forward to listening to the Sweet Thunder of those new pipes!

When I re-install the balancer I will put it in boiling water first and spray the end of the crank with freeze spray to help minimize the effort for the installation. Live and learn.
Anyone else have this experience? Please share your thoughts, storys and advice.

 

In my experience, easy outs work great when the bolt isn't rusted in. I'm betting you'll get it out.

 

I have had the same thing happen before. Drill a small pilot hole and then a hole as large as you can without hitting threads. Comes right out with an easy-out.

 

I bet the left handed drill bit works. Good luck.
Ps another strike against proform.

 

I'm betting from your description of how your going to proceed,you'll get it out.

 

Placing the balance in boiling water will cause the metal to expand, thus the hole will be smaller.. Place the balancer in the freezer over night. The metal will shrink, thus the hole will be larger.

 

I haven't tried this in WV, but everywhere else, the hole gets bigger with heat.

 

A LH bit will spin it right out. There's no pressure on the threads. You might even try just poking at it with a scribe or little screwdriver and see if it'll turn.

I wouldn't bother with heating/cooling anything. It really doesn't take that much torque to seat a balancer. You just got a crap bolt.

 

You better give this one some more thought,not the way its gonna happen...Anyways no need to heat or cool anything when it comes to re-installing a balancer on a SBC.

 

Look very closely at the crank snout and the ID of the balancer for galled metal. If found, file it smooth before trying a re-install.

Also, check the ID of the balancer and the OD of the crank snout. Some aftermarket balancers are too tight with the interference fit and will be very difficult to install - never had a problem with a GM balancer though.

 

 

use quality tools like Mac or Snap-on.......

 

I've heard that can happen as well, but I've never personally experienced this issue. Would it make sense then to install them using a torque wrench? As in, if you go over X ft.lbs something is probably farked up? I doubt I've ever gone much more than 100 installing them on a Gen1/2 SBC.

Gen3s on the other hand...

 

I want the metal to expand and it will enlarge the bore not shrink it.

 

I tried a scribe first wouldnt budge. Anything I can do to make the balancer seat further on the crank is a bonus. Cranking on that tool with the fine threads while laying on my belly on the fender is not much fun.