Oh now, radiator leaking again !
My 68 big block radiator started leaking again today, leaving a nice water streak behind. :mad
This happened already last year and I got it fixed at a radiator overhaul place.
The repaired area is still OK, but now it leaks from an other place.
The leak comes from the drivers side collector area where the sheets join and are soldered together. A area of about 1 inch long shows poudery corrosion ( soldering ).
What is happening here ? Am I using the wrong anti-freeze fluid ?
Could the radiator cap pressure relief setting be too high ?
Well, I removed the radiator today and it will see the overhaul place tomorrow. An other 30 $ gone !
I don't fancy removing this thing once a year. :cry
Any thoughts.
Gunther
dl




Yes, your right.
I only went for the repair, not overhaul.
The leak did not come from the cooling ribs ( mesh ), but from the flat collector box. The soldering broke loose.
I turned the radiator in to the shop this morning and received it back in the afternoon. Repaired, painted and pressure tested. Looks like new, but I know, it isn't.
It's already back in the car and OK. Drove it extensively.
I managed to remove / install it without removing the hood.
Wasn't difficult.
If it leaks again, it will get replaced.
It's a GRIFFIN copper big block radiator with the pressure cap ( no overflow tank ).
Could this be the original, 30 year old unit, or is it already a aftermarket one ?
Thanks
Hope this helps.
dl
---Andy
[Modified by andyg, 8:51 PM 5/29/2002]
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Why do you prefere a overflow tank ?
The 68 big block 427/435 came originally with the non overflow tank pressure system radiator.
The cap was pressure tested OK by the shop on my request and it's releasing.
Is there any pressure build up in a overflow tank system or is it just kept at static pressure ?
Pressurizing the water raises the boiling point of the water, hence should be the better option for high performance engines.
Why are simple things so complicated ?
Gunther
:seeya
I don't think so. The GM owned it's own division "Harrison Radiator" which produced both aluminum and copper brass radiators for GM. The plant is now Delphi thermal systems, which is still in Lockport NY, only builds aluminum radiators today. In fact, Griffin buys delphi cores for there racing radiators. So, If you have a Griffin radiator, it's made my griffin and not an original. Don't mean this is a bad thing, just a fact.
Now if you want to re-core and keep this car original, we (dewitts) offer a correct c/b core. You just take this core and your original radiator to the local rad shop and have the tanks transfered.
[Modified by Tom DeWitt, 9:46 PM 5/30/2002]
Why do you prefere a overflow tank ?
With an overflow system, the radiator is always completely full. When the coolant heats up and expands, the extra coolant is pushed past the rad cap into the overflow tank. When it cools off, it is sucked back into the radiator.
For a low-cost solution, get the overflow tank for a 78-82 corvette. It fits all years, and is still available from GM for $15. I have it in my '71 and it works great. I also have an aluminum radiator and dex-cool. The dex-cool has been in there for 2 years now and still looks new. I drained it to swap my cam, and it was still perfectly clear. It looked so good I pured it back in after the cam swap.












