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Just did this to my Buddy's 82 a few months ago. You need to order the trans. O.D. shift kit from jeggs or summit. Call summit they will know what you need. Cost about 75 bucks. The throttle cable will need to be shortened, cause it's way to long. This can be done from the accelerator petal. Just cut and place a brass hold on to the end and replace. You will find that once you have everything back together the car will start run then die. This is because there is a sensor that tells the fuel pump to work, then cut off, then work again. You will need to "hot wire" the fuel pump to come on with the ignition key. But you will need to cut the red wire coming from the pump under the rubber on top of the tank by the gas filler. You will see a 100% increase in throttle response from your original motor.
We're still going to drive it on the street somewhat. I'm not sure for how long though. I'd prefer to put a glide in it, but it's not in the cards for now.
The trans kit allows for a mechanical activation of the overdrive?
Yes, the kit allows you to have a switch to turn on/off the Over Drive on the trans. Without the kit and the crossfire removed, there will be no signal to tell the O.D. in the trans. Very easy install, but you have to drop the pan to install switch. Instructions are easy after you read them twice. Once before then as you drop the pan read again and everything falls into place.
I did this to my '82 4 years ago. you can remove the harness from the weather tight plugs at the firewall. you will need a new throttle cable from a 1980 or 1981 as well as a new tv cable and bracket. Do you expect to get a lot of performance from making the switch? I will tell you from experience, that the flow of the stock heads are very poor. In order to get the performance, you will need new heads and a lot of bottom end work. I started with the same thought and then was disappointed with the results. I eventually went with a built 383 and got what I wanted performance wise.
Ditto, the reason the 82 only has 200hp is the small size cylinder heads. No matter what you mount for an intake you cannot get more air through those small heads. A large carburetor is useless due to low CFM through heads.
A 2bbl will probably be fine for the limited flow. No flow no go.
This is actually my car we are working on and the reason for the direction we're going is to get the car moving quickly and simply. I'm intending to race it for the rest of the year neutered and swap out for an LS motor over the winter. My main concern is limiting redundant spending and squeezing more power out of this car for 2-3 races isn't worth it financially.
It'll haul *** next year but I'm just looking to getting it moving cheaply to finish out the season.
I'm open to suggestions and ideas but I'm more okay throwing $500 at it and recouping most of it than I am $3,000 and just a portion of it all for 3 events or so.
Thanks for all the input so far and to Huff for posting the thread in the first place.
Just did this to mine and it's definitely an improvement. Of course my crossfire was not working so good and didn't want to put any money into it when I have bigger plans for the future. The car starts and idles SOO much better now. I also have another 800 to 1000 rpm usuable when rowing through the gears.
I always wondered about swapping out the crossfire. Lots of good info here. I turned dow buying an 84 because I wasn't sure if the crossfire could be removed. Next time I'm all in. I must admit I have read that a lot of forum members seem to have good luck with them. Before reading reports on this forum all I ever hear was you spend all weekend tuning them in just to have to do it all over agian next weekend.
We didn't hook it to the key. We have it on a toggle switch. (kind of a theft device) But you can easily look for a "hot" wire to the ignition when the key is on and hook it up there.